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Similar Content
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By tractorboy79
I have a old gt14 and the plastic plates or control panels are way past their prime, and I saw someone was remarking them with a 3d printer a little while back and I was looking to se if I could find the file but no luck. If anybody has info that would be amazing. Thanks for your time and anything helps.
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By Tenday
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
notes:
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
-seat switch
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?
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By Rollo416H
I'm new here, but I have years and miles of dealing with electrical issues with my 1997 416H, engine Onan P216G (I am the only owner) . Problem description: the start circuit turns the starter over fine, but no spark at the plugs or the coil sockets by spark tester. The ignition trigger tests good by connecting a test light to the coil positive and and the ignition trigger negative lead, plenty of light flash from the test light in unison with the engine turning over. So, I conclude the ignition trigger, replaced 3/18/2021 along with the coil is good. I have followed the "Demystification" wiring diagram in detail and there is 12V at the coil positive terminal, wiriing is solid (for now), all those damn safety switches, key switch, and relays work too. I conclude that the coil is bad since the primary side tests 3.1 OHM and the secondary tests infinite OHMS (1. displayed on multimeter). Two coils (Onan part# 166-0820) have NEW dates of 3/2021 and 8/2021, and yes both have the same test results mentioned. Infinite OHMs to me means the coil windings are broken. The most recent coil came from Onanparts.com and tested as mentioned above when it arrived. Onanparts won't take anything back! There are a lot of coils on ebay and various suppliers from China. Maybe good, maybe bad, who can tell? And most suppliers won't accept returned electrical parts. Please help: What are good test readings for a GOOD coil (primary and secondary). Who do you recommend as a reliable supplier for a new coil?
Thanks for any help!
Rollo416H
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By Don66
I have a 1978 Wheel Horse 8 speed tractor,Kohler 321 engine. I've been working on restoration, finally got the mower deck finished and installed. Before this, the engine was easy to start and ran well. Yesterday it would not start with ignition key, would not even turn over, so I jumped it with a screwdriver between cylinoid and battery. The engine started and ran about 10 seconds and died. Now I get no spark and the engine won't fire off. I checked the wiring and everything seems to be connected and without damage. I don't have test equipment available so I'm stumped at what went wrong. Any suggestions?
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By Maxwell-8
So yesterday I picked-up a C175. She was rusting away as she was stored outside. She had a new to her Kohler K341. @squonk The previous owner indeed better had"LET AN ELECTRICIAN CHECK his SHORTS!" as bad wiring shorted the battery out, and exploded/melted. She has a Sundstrand hydro pump with a Filter, is that normal? By the pump I believe it's a 1980. But you never now for sure as it's made in Oevel. Due to the bad wiring, the engine was in no running condition. But don't think the K341 has many hours on it. The hydro I don't know if it works. She was hard to push. So i lift up one wheel, so we could roll here one one wheel and the diff prevented the trans from locking up.
So first things to do:
1) get the engine running
2) replace the steering wheel, but don't think removing it will be very hard as it's already split in two.
3) replace the axleseals, the oil leak caused a lot of sandbuild up as she was mainly used on for leveling out a horse track.
4) clean all the acid and remove all the old wiring to do a full rewiring
5) replace the plastic seat pan with a metal.
6)...
I'm looking forward on my first C.
It's also my first hydro, I don't know a lot about them and prefer actual gears. Simpler and need less maintenance (parts-shortage).
But since I couldn't find another project WH and me hearing a lot of good things about hydro's on the forum.. I finally took the shot.
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