I have been into garden tractors for a few years. Wanted to learn about small engines and buying an old sear suburban was cheaper than the class at the local community college. Just got a 1980 C85 (with a johnny bucket on it).
By Gas Man
I just bought my first Wheel Horse. She's a c-175 Automatic. Sounds like I stumbled onto a Crappy example of a Kohler as it has a KT17 series 1. The previous owner said "She was running when I shut her off" That was around 2010. So she's been sitting for around 10 years. The fuels system is a total disaster!! I drained what looked like dark maple syrup from the tank. I'm thinking about buying an ultra-sonic cleaner from Habor Freight for the carb work.
First - Won't crank
It took a while just to get her to crank ,(I have a tendency to go through the butt hole to work on the tonsils) I checked all of the safety switches (PTO, Seat, Brake) and found them to be good, then found the ignition wire "OFF" the solenoid. Plugged it in....Cranks great.
NEXT - No Spark
I have power to the coil when the key is on.
I pulled the flywheel expecting to check the points...ahhh...none there.
Found a series of very dirty magnets that I suspect make up the charging system.
I cleaned the magnets and put the flywheel back on....No spark.
Then my dog got out and I didn't get back to the shed. Hoping to get back out there today.
By 953 nut
I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings.
Hope this is helpful.
Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.
Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.
Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.
We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.
I have a 552 with a 5.5 hp Tecumseh that has was running then one day would not start cause it had no spark . I cleaned the points put it back together and still have no spark. Looking for magneto parts and having trouble finding parts wonder if anyone could help me locate one .
Can't sleep I'm so bummed. My Raider 12 I recently picked up decided to park itself in my side yard and I can't figure out what in tarnation is going on with it. She was running better than ever the day before. I had changed the oil, the plug, cleaned out the carb, set the throttle tighter with less play, cleaned the fins, sprayed DE-OX on the rusted electrical connections, tightened or replaced poor connectors showing bare wire, cleaned the grounds, and adjusted the high and low on the carb. Running beautifully after that. I was out toyin around with the cart picking up sticks and rocks, etc. for a couple hours, no problems whatsoever. Parked for the night and tarped her until I could make room in the shed. Came out the next day and went to fire her up and it just cranked and cranked. Didn't so much as hint that it wanted to turn over. Popped the cap and gas is fine, pulled the hose off the carb, cranked it and watched gas spurt out with no problem, took the plug out / grounded it / turned it over and watched it spark! So now I have two of the 3 majors checked off. I leave the plug out and put my hand over the hole and turn it, seems to have plenty of compression even with the ACR. Sounds no different than it did the day before either.
I do some research and decide it must be the points or condenser. Went and picked them up yesterday and installed them, nothing. Granted, I didn't set the gap to .020, or time the ignition. Could that keep it from not starting though? I would think it would just run rough? I'm seriously bumming over this. I've been researching all day and everything I'm reading is not something I want to get involved in. I don't have the time or the space to toss this on the bench and tear her down to look for a piled up shaft, or an ever so slightly bent rod, etc.. I still have the K181 sitting on the bench just to get cleaned and new gaskets seals. That's been there for 3 weeks! (Ok, so I decided to paint it while its out, sue me).
Seriously though, I need some pointers or some tough love. If I need to toss the motor on the dreaded future project bench and hunt down another one, I'll go do it I tell ya!
Oh, two more quick things: The condenser that was on it had a lug with a screw. Attached to the screw was a wire from the magneto I'm guessing. Can't see what else it could have went to? And then a jumper from the lug to the points. The new condenser the guy from the shop gave me had a sealed lead with no lug. Does that sound right? I ended up hooking both to the point terminal. Could that be a problem?
Finally, I was looking at my serial number (C070342) and comparing it to the manual's Engine ID sheet. It says a C denotes a 1967 but all other indications are pointing to it being a 68' Raider 12? What gives?
Thanks in advance!