Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
leeave96

Need Some Garage/Shed Advice

Recommended Posts

leeave96

Need some recommendations on a new shed. I'm looking at putting up one of these metal buildings - I might have posted this link sometime back to the manufacturer's website, but here it is again:

http://www.carolinacarportsinc.com/configurator/index

What I'd like to do is put up a building with two garage doors. There would be space equal to the width of the garage doors between the garage doors and the opposite sides of them. This would be on the long side of the building and descriptively is like this:

wall-space-door-space-door-space-wall

The idea is to put tractors, junk, pop-up camper, firewood, etc, to the extent possible out of the garage door lanes and that would be to either side of the two garage doors and the space between them.

So I have some questions:

- How tall should the building be? Nothing bigger than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck would in it.

- How deep (as you drive into it) is desirable? 20ft, 24ft - looking for some reasonable depth such that I can pull in a vehicle and yet not be so crowded that I can't work around it or even move a tractor around the end of it?

- how wide should be garage doors be? I'd like to get a full size truck through them without being so narrow that I'd smash a mirror.

- If you look at the website, they offer vertical or horizontal siding. I'm thinking vertical. Don't know if this is better for looks or strength or both. What you do think?

- I'd like to put this building on a concrete pad. Question is - how thick and what type - rebar or concrete with fiber or both.

This is just in the planning stage - not sure I'll do it, but I want to figure out what experience others have with their garages, and lessons learned from theirs you can share.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Just a couple of notes from past experience. In VA I don't know what the code is on concrete floor thickness, but here in MD it is 4". I reinforced mine with 6" mesh. What I didn't do was put in floor drains. If I were to do it over again, I would have an active drain system under each car location. My garage is 24' x 24'. 24' is a good depth, but I would like it wider. The ceiling height is 8' 6". I have two 9' wide doors. If I were to do it again, I would have one single 16 or 18' door. If I park a tractor between cars, I can't get it out without moving one or the other car.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
GlenPettit

I put 1/2" styrofoam on the walls (outside of studs, under the OSB), now, in the Winter, I have a full 20º temperature gain, water never freezes. I did finish it in drywall and put (all the cheap miss-matched fiberglass I could get free) in the ceiling, about 4-5" thick, so now it's very easy to heat. Added recycled corrigated board (with the little air channels) between the studs. Lots of duplex wall outlets.On the floor drains, Great idea, be sure to have the cement guys sloop the floor very slightly to the drains.Go at least 26' deep, at least 24' wide; that way you can use just one 16' wide door for two big trucks (with just one power opener), trucks angled slightly when in, and gives a little work room. If you're going to really work much in there, you must go much bigger, both directions. Lot cheaper to make bigger the first time, than an add on later. A semi-open lean-to, with extended roof is better for low-use storage, only keep tools & current 'live' projects inside the garage, like Wheel Horses. Vertical siding catches less rain and dirt. A walk-thru door & several high windows are very nice. If the wife is going to use it/park, add a second lean-to/porch for her near the house side, with a picnic table, chair . . . . got to get her to buy in too.Be higher than the ground all around it, for drainage. Never enough headroom, 10' would allow you to have a ceiling fan. With 6-12 roof pitch, singling lasts longer than on a 4-12 pitch. Nice to consider and allow for some 'attic' storage. Concrete 4" is fine, but if you know you'll be doing heavy work, go thicker or at least have a very good base. We're talking $3-5,000 in materials, double that if you hire a builder, Box Stores have a free planning & material list service..

Last and most important bit of advice: Build it twice as big as you think you know you'll need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
855ownerJoel

I would agree with no less than 24' deep. I have a crew cab with 6 1/2' box and that leaves me with anout 3' behind truck and about 1' in front when parked in garage. My garage is 8' tall. I agree with putting in 1 large garage door since it does not limit the width. If yu ever have camper style mirrors you will appreciate the double door. The bigger garage you can afford the better, you never have enough space. (They fill up faster than you would expect). Also regarding the floor pad, I would go with 4" minimum and 6" on an exterior pad if pouring one. The thickness of concrete is usually done depending on expected load. I am not a concrete person but have heard good things about the fiber mesh, would think rebar would be overkill for your application. Here is mine 24' X 24' works great but filled up fast.post-8621-0-75541200-1358436567_thumb.jp

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
whfan74

Not a real detailed amount of information but here is the barn that dad put up just over 3 years ago......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
limited12

I am also thinking of building a garage, i looked at one that was 26x30 with storage overhead, that appeared to be a great size. Concrete should be a min 6" , i agree with the other post fiber mesh is good option. Instead of a turned down slab, i would dig footings, lay block then floor, this will get it out of the ground better for drainage. The drains are a good idea, but if you need a permit this could cause some issues. One 16' door would be nice option, with a 3/0 side door.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tunahead72

I'm seeing lots of good ideas here, guys, in a real short period of time. Nice work, I'll be watching this one.

A couple of quick thoughts off the top of my head (without referring to my huge "garage ideas" file :) ):

  • Check your county's building regulations early in the process, best to discover potential problems now rather than later.
  • Definitely make it bigger than you think you need. For depth, my full-size pickup with an extended cab and 8' bed was 20'4" long, a crew cab might be a foot or so longer; I'd say 24' depth minimum, more if you want a workbench or storage in front of your truck.
  • I would definitely insulate if you plan to spend any time in there, you know, working on Wheel Horses or something.
  • Include lots of electrical outlets, maybe 220V if you think you'll need it, and think about your lighting needs.
  • Consider adding plumbing, even if it's just for a sink.
  • If you go with a taller building or steeper roof, you can probably fit a storage loft up there somewhere.
  • I see what these guys are saying about the single wide garage door, but two smaller doors would allow you to control the amount of heat lost if you're opening them a lot in the winter. May not matter to you, just something to think about.

I'd personally love to see more photos! :popcorn:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Watch drains. Some places will make you put in a grease trap. If I was doing it and money was no object (which of course for me it is) :) I'd put in radiant floor heat 6" min concrete for future above ground lift and the biggest electric service i could get. and make it bigger than you think you need. But then you have more to maintain. Former boss who is real picky put up a 30'X50'. Than squawked about how long it was taking him to finish off the interior! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
decksetter

My detached garage is 30 x 24 exterior dimensions with a single double wide garage door. I wish it was bigger. I have 2' deep shelving on one side for tools and 3' deep work benches on the other. In the end opposite the garage door it an old kerosene furnace (that I believe is missing parts, it was there when I moved in, I need to get rid of it). That space sure closes in on you fast. If I have stuff stacked on the work bench (which I always do...) and have to set up an extra work table (like I do right now...) and I can't get the 416-8 to start (because the battery is dead... like this past tuesday...) and I have to pull my full size reg cab long bed truck in (because the transmission is acting up... grr.......), it's pretty cramped.

Definitely go as big as you can afford. I think I would go 5" on the concrete, but you could probably get by with 4". Floor drains are a must, especially if you get much snow and plan on parking inside (or parking your Horse in there after you've plowed!). I don't like the single floor drains, I prefer the trough drains that go clear across the floor or even the pre-made floor drains that are rectangular (long and narrow). I just hate rolling my creeper down into that stupid round floor drain.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
KC9KAS

My 30 X 40 is too small.

Put 4 100' posts in the ground....1 on each of the 4 corners of your property, then put a roof over your whole property.....Walls can be put up later! :ychain:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
855ownerJoel

I'm seeing lots of good ideas here, guys, in a real short period of time. Nice work, I'll be watching this one.

A couple of quick thoughts off the top of my head (without referring to my huge "garage ideas" file :) ):

  • Check your county's building regulations early in the process, best to discover potential problems now rather than later.
  • Definitely make it bigger than you think you need. For depth, my full-size pickup with an extended cab and 8' bed was 20'4" long, a crew cab might be a foot or so longer; I'd say 24' depth minimum, more if you want a workbench or storage in front of your truck.
  • I would definitely insulate if you plan to spend any time in there, you know, working on Wheel Horses or something.
  • Include lots of electrical outlets, maybe 220V if you think you'll need it, and think about your lighting needs.
  • Consider adding plumbing, even if it's just for a sink.
  • If you go with a taller building or steeper roof, you can probably fit a storage loft up there somewhere.
  • I see what these guys are saying about the single wide garage door, but two smaller doors would allow you to control the amount of heat lost if you're opening them a lot in the winter. May not matter to you, just something to think about.

I'd personally love to see more photos! :popcorn:

Should have thought of the building regulations, yes my 24' X 24' was the largest they would allow on my city lot. They also had height limits, good to know before getting too carried away with a plan. I also put footings under mine, more stable than just pouring a slab.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bowtieguy

My 30 X 60 X 12 all steel insulated bldg w 4" concrete floor is "just about right".(we call it the Horse Barn)........should have added copper tubing to floor for hot water heating system..(so you can take a nap while you are on the floor looking at your next project)....has one walk in door and one overhead 10 x 12.....cost:...9K ...with lots of "wheeling and dealing"....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ThreeHorses

What you are wanting would work better with a post frame or stick built building, especialyy if you want to heat it.

Consider dividing it up so don't have to heat the whole building if using part of it as a work shop.

I've got a 15' x 30' x 12' tall A-frame metal buildind for my truck camper, vertical siding and roof.

Vertical siding looks much better, horizontal is cheapier with the carports.

The metal carports need some insulation under the steel or you'll have condensation dripping down on what's stored inside.

The vertical steel siding on them are normally in 10' increments, horizontal siding carports are normally in 5' increments.

If going the metal building route I'd go with a 12' or 18' center section 25' or 30' long with lean-tos' on each side, or 24' wide with 1 lean-to.

If going 24' wide put a 18' x 8' door or 2 10' x 8' doors on the center section.

Open or closed lean-to's on one or both sides.

A 10' x 8' garage doors works really well for your truck and a 10' x 7' or 8' tall doorf or the pop-up camper, 9x7's or even 8x7's would work good for your tractors if you go to 3 doors.

Doors from the metal carport building companies are often undersized from standard doors.

Definitely would want a walk door, some windows for ventilation in the summer.

A drain is good if you can do it where truck is pulled in if you have a concrete floor and get snow.

Most conventional garages have the floor slope to the door side some, hard to do if sitting a metal building on the concrete. Need a level area for the building to sit on.

Could do a foundation with a poured short wall or filled block, with anchor bolts to go thru the metal frame. Make sure you check with metal bluiding company for spacing.

Then pour a 4" re-enforced concrete slab with a drain between these.

I've got a 26' x 38'x11' sidewall detached garage with 2 9'x8' doors, 1 10'x9' door and a walk-door on the one side.

Also have a 12'x24' lean-to shop on the end where the walk door is, the ground slopes away so it is on treated piers with a wood floor joist.

A small propane infrared heater heats the shop area quickly or keeps it warm enough to work in without using a ot of fuel.

Currently I'm walling off the end 15' of the garage that adjoins the shop so I can heat it if I want to.

The walk door and 1 9'x8' garage door are in one end of this area, have a window in the back wall.

Concrete floor with a floor drain.

Should be fairly easy to heat to a working in temperature when required.

I agree on size, figure out what you think you'll need then build it a little bigger.

Are you going to get a larger camper or a boat in the future? If so plan your building now so you can store it inside if you do.

Maybe just by running the roof ridge so you can build a 12'+ side wall addition on one end later if necessary.

Consider resale implications if you need to move down the road.

The metal carports are really just shelters, not conducive to being a year round workshop or heated area.

Confused yet? Just think of what you want down the road, try to make sure what you do now will work with those wants.

If you can't afford it all at this time do what you can now and add to it later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
decksetter

should have added copper tubing to floor for hot water heating system

Doesn't have to be copper, the new church I am working on is 10,000 sq ft and they did theirs out of pex. Much cheaper and easier!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
refracman

I would go with your wallet can handle, with what they offer, at least 24' x 31' x 10' with 2 garage doors on 31' 8' x 10', a 36" x 82" door and at least 2 windows on the back and 2 on the end with one window onlong with the door. I put in for my area and it priced out at $7,755. Concrete in my area is $100 a yard and this would take 7.6 yds for the floor and anther 2 yd for a 2' x 8" footer, so at least $1000 for crete not including mesh or labor, for a stick built figure 17K at least. Not a bad deal all in all.

Just a few tips before you build.

Almost all residential buildings have only 4" floor with 5 bag cement mix concrete with wire mesh, its harder to finish fibrated and will leave fuzzies on the finish. Anything thicker, unless your going to park a heavy truck on it, is not the best use of your money. Make sure you compact any backfill under concrete very well and cover with 6mil plastic.

You will need to check you local codes on easement from property/ water/sewer/power lines, footers, hurricane strapping plate and stud dimentions

Most codes do not permit drains because of oils and antifreeze getting into the water table. While they are nice they also present a hazard. A good slope on the concrete grade and door seat will drain fine and no need for a drain.

Edited by refracman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
midnight rambler

i didnt read everybodys ideas and thoughts but here are a few things to think about. if its a pole shed they put concrete pucks under the poles and concrete goes in last. also is you plan on having it insulated ask about the liner kit for it, when you upgrade to that it will allow for greater roof strenght (snow load) as far as drains go, put them in and cover them up so your inspector dosent ask for a drainage plan. as with the water you will want in there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Travas
      By Travas
      Hello everone reading this. Im currently in the process of building a race mower out of a front engine 8-32 toro. It was sitting outside for the longest time because of a broken axle. It believe it has a vertiical 8 hp b&s that had running. Here is some some photos of it.  I put a bifferent transaxle in because it was spare one laying around. I put it on and it fits pretty well. Altho i had to remove all the clutch and shifter parts to get it in, but hey it works. I got a wheel on and tried getting the other off the axle it was on. So i put it in the press and tried for about a half hour before in popped loose. After that it took me about 15 mins and got it off. It was really  rusted on there! Put it on the transaxle to how it fits and looks. Now im in the process of drilling a hole the axle for the key in the wheels. Any suggestions or ideas? I will update this project when do some more work on it. 









    • mmmmmdonuts
      By mmmmmdonuts
      I have approximately an 10x12 lean to shed attached to my house on the side of my side loading garage. I currently have a double door that is 6' wide by 6x10" high. The problem I am having is the door starting to fall apart. It is also framed very heavily with 2x6s. So I am currently looking to either do another double door or a garage door. Part of the reason the door is getting damaged in the first place is because water pools at the bottom of the door in the winter and freezes and I have to basically heat and or chisel the ice away. It is where I store my snowblower. 
       
      My wife ruled out a sliding barn door and a roll up door mainly for appearance purposes.
       
      I was starting to lean to a 8w x7h regular garage door but see a few cons. 
       
      1) It would block the light when up. 
      2) I would lose quite of bit overhead storage and about 2 feet of wall space.
      3) There would be much more work reframing parts of the wall to fit the door.
       
      Pros.
      1) I could fit my wheel horse plow and snowblower side by side. 
      2) Shouldn't freeze to the concrete as easily with a rubber seal. 
      3) Don't have to shovel out the doors to get the snowblower out. 
       
      I was wondering what thoughts you guys had on and if I am missing something.
       
      Thanks. 
       
    • CasualObserver
      By CasualObserver
      I've been dreaming of a new shop space to work on tractors and generally store things at my house. We already had a three car garage on the house and could only fit one vehicle in it due to the large space that kids toys, bikes, zero turn mower, shelving and a workbench already occupied. Well.. that stuff and a few or so little garden tractors... but they don't take up that much space, right?   Anyway...  we'd been talking about building my dream shop for several years. We live on a large in-town parcel, so there's plenty of room, but as with most things, it comes down to when it can fit in the budget. I drew it up several times on the building designer at Menards dreaming of when we could go forward. Well, in the early 2017 we decided to go ahead with it, and I came up with my final layout plan.

      We proceeded under the option of build the shell, and finish what we can later. We went over and over the list of things to do now and later. Things I wanted that had to be done now for sure were the rough in for the in-floor heat and the attic trusses. I had a contractor friend who would GC and frame it for me if I bought all the materials and he could do it on his own schedule. Yep, done. I figure I could have built it myself, but it would have taken most of the summer of every night and weekend, as well as the headaches of arranging the subs for the stuff I couldn't do, but if he could do it, and he has all the contacts/subs already... I'm money and time ahead to work some extra overtime and avoid the headaches.
       
      The previous owners of our place had a gravel RV parking next to the house. The old poorly done timber walls were deteriorating and leaning with age.It was convenient for parking the trailer, and nice when the kids were little that we could park off the driveway so they could play, but every year inevitably it was always a weedy mess by mid-summer.


       
       
      Step one, remove ugly timber wall.  Lucky for me my neighbor had an chainsaw with a garbage blade on it. He came over and we were able to cut the wall into 12 ft sections that we loaded on the trailer for the dump.


       
       
      Next, met with our contractor friend to stake and mark it out. Since part of the goal was to reduce the amount of gravel, the equivalence of one car parking space was being removed and returned to grass on the left edge.


       
       
      Then just before the excavator was to start work, the kids and I did a little groundbreaking for the big project.

       

      Some gravel removed and sand base laid down and compacted.



       
       
      Concrete guys laid the forms for me on a Friday night so I could lay the insulation and pex for the in-floor heat.


       
       
       Like any kids, the call of the sand pile was irresistible.


       
       
      Next day I had help to lay the insulation boards and pex. Might seem silly to see two people carrying these boards that weigh all of 2 lbs each... but notice all the pavers? I'd been hoping for good weather to do the insulation and pex..... what I got was great temperature, bright, sunny......and 25 mph sustained winds with 40-50 mph gusts. So.... two guys to carry each flippin' board and weight it down. Ugh.... made the process much longer.


       
       
      Got the pex down, which went very smoothly. Three zones, stapled to the foam board.


       
       
      Monday morning I get a call.... inspector won't pass it because there's no pressure test on the pex. Ugh. Nothing about that in our building code, but what am I going to do? Project can't go on without his initials. So... I build a pressure manifold, tie all three zones into one long line and charge it up.  Tues morning, concrete guys are onsite... inspector shows up and says ok.

       
       
      By the time I get home from work, I have a new slab.  


       
       
      Lumber pack shows up the day before the family and I are leaving for a week at the cabin. When I pulled out of driveway, construction was underway. We got a few progress pics through the weeks from various friends.


       
       
      And I returned a week later to this.  Totally the best way to build a shop!  I was out of his way, he was out of mine... worked out perfectly.


       
       
      I installed the overhead doors, had the electrician come and trench the electric over. Got the gas line roughed in for the boiler as well while the trench was open.





       
       
      After that, the excavator came back with the final top dress for final grading.  



       
       
      We bit the bullet and decided to go with sod right away. Even got the kids to help for a little while. Couple of neighbors (one of whom happens to be a professional landscaper) came over the chip in too, and three pallets later....



       
       
      Now we're at slow progress time. I bought all the construction materials on a Menards 11% rebate, so once I got the rebate check I started to finish the interior. Got the vapor barrier up, and ceiling rocked with 12 foot 5/8" type x. 105 lbs each. Ugh. Thank God for drywall lifts, right!?


       
       
      More rebate checks allowed for the insulation and rock for the walls.



       
       
      Then we came to a complete standstill..... got enough stuff moved out of the house garage to get both the car and truck in for the winter, but with no heat and no ceiling insulation the shop was just a big storage box for winter.

       
       
      Spring this year rolled around and prioritizing shop work made it to the list. I realized it's going to be much easier to get the interior done before I move in. So... started back at it. I got the floors masked off and got tape and mud done... then the girls helped me paint.





       
       
      Did the floor with Rock Solid polycuramine kits from Menards... grey with flakes and a textured topcoat to make it less slippery if wet. This is a long and multi-stage process. First it required renting a diamond grinder and grinding off the curing sealer. Then powerwashing three times to remove all dust and debris.  The base coat went on, cured for a few days, and topcoated three days later. Then I let that cure for a week before moving in. It's supposed to be cured in 24 hours, but why rush it if not necessary?




       
       
      Finally ready to move in.


       
       
      Got some used kitchen cabinet take outs and installed them for the workshop area.




       
       
      Really looking forward to getting stuff organized and cleaned up now.  It's totally a dream come true. Still have to buy and install the boiler and get the ceiling insulated... but those are things that can be worked around. Up until this point it's been much easier to have minimal stuff in the way.
       
      If you made it all the way to the bottom, thanks for taking the time to read it.  Get more done, have more fun!!   
       
       
       
    • ebinmaine
      By ebinmaine
      Let's see some pics of how and where to keep the things you need to have on hand to keep the herds in good shape.
      Old parts.
      New parts.
      Everything.
       
      Time to reorganize and expand where my Honey and I are storing our small equipment stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...