Hardware specs

[JamesBe1 80]

I ponder this every time I look at the Wheel Horse Parts lists. I've been meaning to ask, and have finally remember to post the question.

What does the suffix E.S. mean in the wheel horse parts lists? For example "Nut - Hex 5/16-18 E.S."

Also, what grade to restorers generally like to use? Stainless Steel of Zinc Plated? I know everybody has their own preferences, I'm just trying to get a general feel for what the community like in general.

Thanx,

James

[WH520 17]

I can't help you on what E.S. means. When I tore my 518H apart I replaced every nut and bolt with stainless.

[bowtiebutler956 649]

I used zinc plated, but that is because stainless is expensive, and I'm cheap!

Matt :flags-texas:

[MalMac 1,328]

Not sure on the ES. But I do know this, it has been my experience the hardware you get from the big box stores and some of the chain hardware stores is absolute junk. I have been going to regular fastener buisnesses to get quality fasteners. The cost is way more but I am tired of breaking bolts, nuts strip very easily and quality control is non-existant. Some of that hardware that is out there should not be out there because someone is going to get hurt over that junk.

[JamesBe1 80]

I almost always replace all the hardware.

Except on those occasions where it's an odd piece, and I'm in a hurry, and/or it's expensive. There are some definite safety concerns with re-using the old hardware too.

I'll admit it - I'm a cheapskate too (just like Matt). I've been either buying by weight at TS, or individually at my local mom&pop hardware store (I like to keep my money in my community).

As for grade, my cheapskate side tells me to buy low grade stuff, but it's starting to gnaw on me doing that. I don't want to overdo it and put grade-8 all over the place, but I do want to use the right hardware. Dunno exactly where the happy medium is.

Still wondering what E.S. stands for. Was hoping one of the more knowledgeable members around here would know. I'm glad I'm not the only one who doesn't.

[Duff 206]

I'm with MalMac on this one - if you're going to buy replacement hardware, get it from a reputable hardware store or go to McMaster-Carr. I use stainless on all my rebuilds, figuring the few extra dollars spent now will be well worth it down the road in parts that can be taken back off easily if they need replacement, and heck, they just look sharp!

JMHO....

Duff :thumbs:

[WH520 17]

Maybe it means Ex Spensive?? :lol:

[varosd 1,185]

I'm using stainless on my 520-H just remember to use thread lube.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

Elastic stop.

Some have a small insert in the threads and others are similar to Ny-lock with the top nylon ring.

Garry

[JamesBe1 80]

Wow Garry. If there were a prize, you'd certainly be worthy of it. There were 60 views, and you were the only one who knew. I tip my hat to ya!

So these are different from nyloks somehow? I have seen the term "Eslok" on the parts lists before. I assume that is synonymous with nylok.

[JamesBe1 80]

Hmmm. It would seem E.S. is a standard Nyloc:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut

[JamesBe1 80]

Here's the scoop for any who care to know.

Apparently, Eslok nuts can go on in either directions, and Esna (Nyloc) go on in one direction:

http://www.myelec-traks.com/803437.pdf

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

Eslok is a patented process that applies the plastic locking material to threads. There is a service bulletin dated May 1988 where WH/Toro quit using set screws with Eslok and went with 242 blue Loctite as a replacement.

Garry

[SousaKerry 500]

Eslok is sometimes also referred to as Nylon patch on set screws.

As far as hardware is concerned check out Fastenal, if you work for a company that has an account you can get the industrial prices, or just open an account. You can get whole boxes of bolts for less then the cost of just a few over at the hardware store. Chances are they can get the really weird stuff too and in any material you want. When I did my 655 all the hardware was SS except for a few specialized fasteners like the reduced head serrated head bolts that hold the tin to the dash.

[Fun Engineer 859]

I have a combination of SS and zinc plated on my restoration. It was really dependent on my intention to make it look good and last or if I was concerned about strength. I used a number of Grade 8 bolts and nuts like on the transmission and frame to transmission connection. Dash screws and hood latch nuts were chrome. Most engine and other fastners were SS. I had to use zinc for the serrated head bolts also as I could not find them in SS. Some of my hardware was blasted and re-plated in zinc as I couldn't find replacements. I now have a collection of old no longer available parts to re-plate.

[Electro12WH 50]

If your doing a for-real restoration, should you use the original style fasteners?

[JamesBe1 80]

If your doing a for-real restoration, should you use the original style fasteners?

I think that might depend on the desired quality of the result.

Some people might opt for stronger fasteners than was originally used. It's important to consider that most companies (even wheel horse) use the least expensive hardware that they can in order to keep the costs down and the profits up. I would use the original spec fasteners as a bottom line as far as quality is concerned. But if you are an absolute purist in the matter, you might want to stick with the same grade of hardware as was used. Just my 2c worth.

[COMMANDO6 20]

Well I was thinking of using all the original hardware when I do my restoration... :roll: