broken differantial

[kb65 10]

new issue

Broke a bolt in the differential.

this is the second time. first time was several years ago. I fixed it up with some parts i had and replaced all 4 bolts with grade 8 3/8-16 x3.5" bolts

this time the broken bolt popped a hole in the bottom of the case.

I think i may have a spare case half But may need part 2822. it is the side of the diff case.

Any one else have this issue?

[pfrederi 20,905]

I haven't ever broken one.  What Kind of lock nuts did you use??  If it loosens up the slop will lead to breakage.

 

I am now using these

 

 

[ri702bill 12,530]

Welcome!

Are you using, or re-using the Eslok hexnuts in the assembly? Do not use pegular hexnuts or nylok nuts!

Just where did the bolt break - at the head, at the end of the threads?

Eslok nuts are not supposed to be reused without Loctite, as the split fingers loose their grip strength when removed and reused.

One solution - use grade 8 3/8 24 fine pitch bolts & new Eslok nuts. The threads are stronger on a fine pitch over using the coarse thread.

Very important - torque and retorque to verify the nuts are properly tightened when you assemble the diff...

[Ed Kennell 46,621]

Bill and Paul, just curious. Do you need to increase the recommended  torque when using the mechanical locking nuts.

[pfrederi 20,905]

I don't but never really thought about it

[ri702bill 12,530]

47 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Bill and Paul, just curious. Do you need to increase the recommended  torque when using the mechanical locking nuts.

I do not believe so - the torque spec for that application is for using the Eslok nuts...

[kb65 10]

this is a 2 pinion diff 4 bolts hold it together and thread into the other half no nuts.

I do have most of a 10 pinion unit. I am missing one of the side gears, 2 of the pinion gears and the snap rings that hold the axles to the side the side gears.

this is a 1276 tractor.

 

[ri702bill 12,530]

Wow! Looking at the 1276 IPM Manual, that is THE lightest duty diff design I have ever seen in a WH....

Maybe time to upgrade to a more robust design Hydro?? Not exactly cheap, but would solve the breakage issue.

Edited Wednesday at 07:02 PM by ri702bill

[JoeM 10,101]

11 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Do you need to increase the recommended  torque when using the mechanical locking nuts

Yes (does WH call out this spec?)

I like using wet torque valves on lockers. Not sure if this any good but in the field I liked adding 10%. or two uga dga's

[953 nut 67,521]

5 hours ago, kb65 said:

2 pinion diff 4 bolts hold it together and thread into the other half no nuts.

Have you considered drilling the four threaded holes out to 3/8" and using slightly longer 3/8"-24 grade 8 bolts with flex top locking nuts.

[Bill D 2,999]

I think @Skipper used Grade 9 bolts to rebuild the differential on his C195.  

[kb65 10]

drilling and nuts might be a better solution but i do not have 2 good hubs any more they all have a piece missing around the bolt holes. also after 2 attempts i am looking for a more robust newer diff.

does any one know when the 10 pinion unit arrived and what tractors it could be found in? I think they would be the same for a manual or hydro.

[mrc 1,105]

sending pm 

 

 

 

[953 nut 67,521]

9 hours ago, kb65 said:

i am looking for a more robust newer diff.

does any one know when the 10 pinion unit arrived and what tractors it could be found in? I think they would be the same for a manual or hydro.

If you want to use a newer differential you will also need to obtain new axles, yours are retained by roll pins and the ones for the ten pinion are retained by HEAVY DUTY snap rings. Do not attempt to use regular snap rings and mount them with the sharp edge toward the inner end of the axle.

The eight pinion is a stronger unit than the ten pinion in my opinion but they will all interchange.

If memory serves me right the GT-14, Raider, Charger, and Electro, as well as the 10/1267 have the ten pinion limited slip differentials. The end plates on the 1967 to 1972 were aluminum and in 1972 they went to cast iron end plates. New springs for the limited slip can be bought from Lowell, Wheel Horse Parts and more.

Also the 1533 bearings were in short supply during part of the 1970 run so some of then will have a B-348 Torrington roller bearing and a race that is pressed onto the ends of the housing. The one on the right has the race on it.

E

[kb65 10]

are the axle lengths the same on all of the diffs.  I have a pair of axles that use the snap rings but they are both the same length and i believe 1 is supposed to be longer than the other.

I am hoping to find a 10 pinion in the 8 speed I have. If i do i will just need a left gear case for the hydro gear.

 

thank you 

ken

[953 nut 67,521]

According to the IPL (Illustrated Parts List) for your transaxle the axles are not shown with the same part numbers. I think @stevasaurus has an axle chart that could be helpful to you.

Eight speed transaxles did not offer the ten pinion, only six speeds and Sundstrand from '68 to '72 and the 1973 Raider (a 1972 carry over) as far as I know.

[kb65 10]

so what do you think is in this early 70s 8 speed

model 10350  8

serial  904251

[953 nut 67,521]

Chances are that will be a limited slip differential with the steel end plates.        

However, toward the end of that model's run the supply of LSD parts was depleted and model 1-0355 had the eight pinion.

WH61-90 #252 Conversion Limited slip to 8-pinion.pdf

This manual may be helpful to you.