cleat 9,023 #1 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) I dragged this machine home last summer and figured I might as well begin work on it. This is what I am starting with. It had no carb so I got a cheap china carb for it and it will start by jumping the solenoid as the wiring has issues. Hydro seems strong and engine runs quiet and as smooth as a single cylinder can. Edited 3 hours ago by cleat 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,472 #2 Posted 2 hours ago Missing the air cleaner assembly too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,023 #3 Posted 2 hours ago 7 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Missing the air cleaner assembly too? Nope, just not shown in that pic. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,023 #4 Posted 2 hours ago Tractor is mostly torn apart. Frame, engine and rear end have preliminary degreasing done. Don't mind the yellow wheels, they are just for moving the tractor around. Wagon load of parts. These are all cleaned up and ready for bead blasting and/or sanding. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EthanL 54 #5 Posted 2 hours ago That looks great. I hope to be able to do a full tear down and restore like this one. What do you plan on using the tractor for? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,023 #6 Posted 2 hours ago 25 minutes ago, EthanL said: That looks great. I hope to be able to do a full tear down and restore like this one. What do you plan on using the tractor for? Likely just a spare as I have a dedicated mowing 520H (with a 16 Onan on it), my 520HC is the snow plow tractor, and another 520H is set up for the two stage blower. I have 10 tractors now with most of them restored (my wife thinks I'm crazy). 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 9,023 #7 Posted 1 hour ago Well, I found out why the tractor needed the solenoid jumped to start it. The battery connection terminal on the ignition switch is corroded completely. Here is the old connector for the ignition switch. New connector installed. The other connectors are in decent shape and will easily clean up. Since the indicator board is completely corroded as well, I decided to simply eliminate it and all it's associated wiring in the harness. I also eliminated the seat switch and associated relays etc. The neutral switch is gone as well since I will be installing a self centering foot control. Here is the harness as pulled. Here is the harness cleaned up and simplified. Here is the harness ready to be installed. I hooked it up to a battery and plugged in a new ignition switch, low oil relay, PTO switch, and 2 new fuses and tested all functions. Everything works perfectly including grounding the magneto for shutdown (yes, I do have the correct magneto ignition switch). 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,238 #8 Posted 51 minutes ago @cleat I and probably a lot of others will be following along and can't wait to see how good it will look after you do your vodoo on it. BTW I really like the 8" fronts, nothing wrong with the 6' inchers, but really like the looks of the 8's better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 300 #9 Posted 11 minutes ago Excellent work on the wiring harness, Cleat. I like the way you do things. I made up a bunch of harnesses in my shop wiring local agency police cars for emergency lights and radios. Later I worked 13 years for Virginia State Police doing the same thing. I must have used miles of electrical tape and nylon conduit. I always used the best grade wire and high temp conduit in my shop, due to the customer use (and abuse). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites