squonk 46,734 #1 Posted yesterday at 12:11 AM @953 nut and I both preach " CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS!!!! " I put a starter in my C160 about 4 years ago. It was used. Always fires right up and isn't overly noisy. I mowed this AM and shut it off. Mowed this afternoon and parked it in the driveway so I could blow the grass off of it like I always try to do. Tractor sat for about 4 hrs and when I went to start it the dreaded " Solenoid clicks but it doesn't crank." Everything looked pretty good and testing at the starter terminal revealed 12.9 volts with the key in the start position. Here is a picture of the starter and cable. Really doesn't look bad at all: I put my hand on the terminal with the key in crank and a spark!!! So I yanked off the terminal and inspected it. Looked fairly clean but I got some sand paper out and polished things a tad and she fires up so I don't have to push it! Just goes to show you what a little "fuzz" on a connection can do. 9 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 56,753 #2 Posted yesterday at 12:20 AM Had that happen many times. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,058 #3 Posted yesterday at 12:29 AM Yessir. Good catch! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 31,885 #4 Posted yesterday at 01:42 AM 1 hour ago, squonk said: Just goes to show you what a little "fuzz" on a connection can do I have taken up the habit of brushing a light coat of Super Lube on all connections. Use an acid core brush to apply it. Seems to keep corrosion from wire terminals. A tub like this lasts a long time. https://www.grainger.com/product/44N722 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 2,448 #5 Posted yesterday at 02:35 AM For the sake of clarification, the key that some might not be catching is that a lot of grease is dielectric which does not conduct electricity and is not intended to be "within" the connection. Lithium and other dielectric greases are meant to protect connections, not make them. Clean and make connections and then apply dielectric products to seal them from moisture and keep them from corroding. You want to keep water away from electricity and dissimilar metals. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,191 #6 Posted yesterday at 08:17 AM Oxidation - akin to rust in so many ways.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,734 #7 Posted yesterday at 10:11 AM Since/cents/sense this happened at the end of a day of mowing/ moving dirt and dog walking, I did enough to get it running and back into the garage. I plan on pulling things all apart and really clean things up, and maybe put a little Noalox on the connections. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 66,399 #8 Posted yesterday at 11:53 AM 8 hours ago, ineedanother said: For the sake of clarification, the key that some might not be catching is that a lot of grease is dielectric which does not conduct electricity and is not intended to be "within" the connection. Lithium and other dielectric greases are meant to protect connections, not make them. Clean and make connections and then apply dielectric products to seal them from moisture and keep them from corroding. You want to keep water away from electricity and dissimilar metals. If a connection is good enough to pass the test of time a bit of dielectric within the connection isn't a bad thing. It just makes sure no contaminants enter the connection. Fuse holders are an example, a dab of dielectric grease in each side of the fuse holder prior to inserting then fuse will protect the connection much better than an externally applied layer. The same is true for an ignition switch or other Packard 56 connectors, the design of the connector insures a tight fit but has some open space within it where the dielectric material can provide protection. 1 hour ago, squonk said: put a little Noalox on the connections. Noalox is well suited for connections with dissimilar metals. The small pieces of zink that are in the mixture will act as a sacrificial anode, just like the ones used in water heaters. Think about it, galvanized steel is coated with ZINK. It is primarily used for aluminum wiring but there is no reason it wouldn't work for other dissimilar metal junctions. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,197 #9 Posted yesterday at 12:26 PM 2 hours ago, squonk said: ...put a little Noalox on the connections. Back in 2018, my neighbor, who had been an electrician by trade, passed away. When we cleaned out his garage I found a bottle of this stuff. I have been using it ever since on many electrical connections, especially those subject to weather. The last time I had a problem with a B-100 regulator/rectifier, I smeared this on the back where it picks up it's ground. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,895 #10 Posted yesterday at 12:30 PM @Achto was introduced to super lube , many years ago at work , cross training with instrument , electrical techs , always looking for a way to eliminate , REPEDITIVE PROBLEM , that also relates to wiring RE ROUTE , eliminate chafe , wear, shorting , regularly , put wiring near open air , discharge / cooling , cable wrap , stick ons , regularly EXPERIMENT FOR EFFECT ? so many small changes , just stop problems . ex , shoulder bolt for movement , swing point ? how does that work on a plow frame swing lever , squeeze point ? majic , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,998 #11 Posted yesterday at 12:33 PM by the title I thought this was going to be a cell phone thing! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 66,399 #12 Posted yesterday at 01:16 PM 41 minutes ago, JoeM said: phone thing! 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,730 #13 Posted yesterday at 01:40 PM I have a pint can of NO - OX - ID , that we used on many high voltage connections, 69 Kv through 500 Kv. It has the consistency and look of grease. Works very well on battery terminals also. Most high voltage terminations are aluminum. This can will outlive me and probably my children.Just takes a very thin coat. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,873 #14 Posted yesterday at 01:55 PM (edited) 3 hours ago, squonk said: Since/cents/sense this happened at the end of a day of mowing/ moving dirt and dog walking, I did enough to get it running and back into the garage. I plan on pulling things all apart and really clean things up, and maybe put a little Noalox on the connections. I use that on all my electrical connections. I only used dielectric grease on spark plug boots. Edited yesterday at 01:56 PM by Bill D 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,998 #15 Posted 20 hours ago @953 nut there are a few ringy dingys here 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,734 #16 Posted 20 hours ago Took all of the connections apart that had anything to do with the starter circuit. Buffed the solenoid terminals, new nut on the starter, cleaned all the lugs and added Noalox to all of them. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 25,455 #17 Posted 17 hours ago @Retired Wrencher Good info that applies to your new B-100 here Gary! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,734 #18 Posted 16 hours ago 19 minutes ago, Sparky said: @Retired Wrencher Good info that applies to your new B-100 here Gary! I told him to read this and watch that video I posted in the importance of a good ground thread. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,693 #19 Posted 6 hours ago On 6/5/2026 at 8:11 PM, squonk said: @953 nut and I both preach " CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS!!!! " I put a starter in my C160 about 4 years ago. It was used. Always fires right up and isn't overly noisy. I mowed this AM and shut it off. Mowed this afternoon and parked it in the driveway so I could blow the grass off of it like I always try to do. Tractor sat for about 4 hrs and when I went to start it the dreaded " Solenoid clicks but it doesn't crank." Everything looked pretty good and testing at the starter terminal revealed 12.9 volts with the key in the start position. Here is a picture of the starter and cable. Really doesn't look bad at all: I put my hand on the terminal with the key in crank and a spark!!! So I yanked off the terminal and inspected it. Looked fairly clean but I got some sand paper out and polished things a tad and she fires up so I don't have to push it! Just goes to show you what a little "fuzz" on a connection can do. Mike I have sanding disk with a drill attachment. It getem looking like gold. I will try again today. Thanks for all the help and info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 2,988 #20 Posted 3 hours ago @953 nut @squonk can Noalox be used directly/In between electrical connections? I was always under the impression that it could be but was scolded once for using that way but believe the other guy was thinking about dielectric grease and I was using Noalox. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,734 #21 Posted 2 hours ago 55 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: @953 nut @squonk can Noalox be used directly/In between electrical connections? I was always under the impression that it could be but was scolded once for using that way but believe the other guy was thinking about dielectric grease and I was using Noalox. Yes it can and I did! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,730 #22 Posted 16 minutes ago 1 hour ago, squonk said: Yes it can and I did! Yes, but you don't want to use too much, it just takes a light coating to protect the connection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites