520 Lift Cylinder Leaking

[Brockport Bill 2,122]

the main lift valve unit is nasty knuckle buster job

[cleat 8,054]

 

Here is a thread with some information on changing out the #111 O rings in the control valve.

Most of my hydraulic oil leaks have came from these O rings going bad.

 

[WHX?? 53,305]

Guess I shoulda stayed at it instead of taking a break for the stupid Packer game.

Thanks for all the info fellas.

Gonna rebuild the spares from a parts 520 whether they need it or not. Replace them when sno season is over. Also put on a electric fuel pump. This one sits for a week & very hard to start without sniffin salts. Check valves do no good at all. My other 520 snow machine always starts right up with a electric pump. 

Great thread on this topic  @cleat.

Thanks for the link to the hydraulic info @lynnmor. I have lots to learn and will come in useful when I get the FEL in to repair leaks. 

[lynnmor 8,252]

6 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Also put on a electric fuel pump. This one sits for a week & very hard to start without sniffin salts. Check valves do no good at all. My other 520 snow machine always starts right up with a electric pump. 

 

I still have not done any modifications to the fuel systems on my four 520H's, I have been putting up with long cranking times after they set for awhile.   I bought the same kind of check valves as you have but never installed them.  Since the fuel pump has two leaf style valves I can't see an additional check valve, I just bought them when someone on here claimed great success.  You might try an easy test by putting the check valve after the fuel pump and in a vertical position because fuel is difficult to move by suction.

[Handy Don 15,165]

2 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I still have not done any modifications to the fuel systems on my four 520H's, I have been putting up with long cranking times after they set for awhile.   I bought the same kind of check valves as you have but never installed them.  Since the fuel pump has two leaf style valves I can't see an additional check valve, I just bought them when someone on here claimed great success.  You might try an easy test by putting the check valve after the fuel pump and in a vertical position because fuel is difficult to move by suction.

Our camp tractor (518-H++) goes weeks without use. Last spring I decided to try a squeeze bulb like those on outboard motor fuel tanks. After the next two “settin” spells, one squeeze filled the filter and a then did a second squeeze for good measure. Starts were as if it had been shut down an hour ago. So far so good. 

[lynnmor 8,252]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Our camp tractor (518-H++) goes weeks without use. Last spring I decided to try a squeeze bulb like those on outboard motor fuel tanks. After the next two “settin” spells, one squeeze filled the filter and a then did a second squeeze for good measure. Starts were as if it had been shut down an hour ago. So far so good. 

Some years ago I brought up the use of squeeze bulbs on here and at least one member thought it was a joke.  Here again I haven't installed one since the ones worth installing take up a lot of room and are rather expensive.

[Handy Don 15,165]

2 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Some years ago I brought up the use of squeeze bulbs on here and at least one member thought it was a joke.  Here again I haven't installed one since the ones worth installing take up a lot of room and are rather expensive.

Don't recall what I paid, but being kinda frugal, it couldn’t have been much! 

I have nothing against electric pumps, but since all the tractors I maintain run fine once started, I decided the “squeeze before start" was worth a try. It is a snug fit where the fuel line begins to curve up from the frame along the shroud to the pump on the Onan P218. 

If this doesn’t work, I’ll probably go with @wallfish’s method with a separate switch to run an electric pump only before/during startup.  

[lynnmor 8,252]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Don't recall what I paid, but being kinda frugal, it couldn’t have been much! 

I have nothing against electric pumps, but since all the tractors I maintain run fine once started, I decided the “squeeze before start" was worth a try. It is a snug fit where the fuel line begins to curve up from the frame along the shroud to the pump on the Onan P218. 

If this doesn’t work, I’ll probably go with @wallfish’s method with a separate switch to run an electric pump only before/during startup.  

 

Somewhere I read that a method to briefly pressurize the fuel tank was devised, eliminating any changes to the fuel system.

[Handy Don 15,165]

Just now, lynnmor said:

 

Somewhere I read that a method to briefly pressurize the fuel tank was devised, eliminating any changes to the fuel system.

Good memory, LOL. I seem to recall that was popular for a time in “middle” Michigan and “high” Maine. 

[lynnmor 8,252]

Found it:

 

Posted November 11, 2016

If you can find a place to fit it, I would think that a primer bulb would cure the excess cranking problem.  Yes, the electric pump is a good idea, this is just another option.

 

primer bulb

[wallfish 18,783]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

If this doesn’t work, I’ll probably go with @wallfish’s method with a separate switch to run an electric pump only before/during startup. 

I did connect one to the starter circuit so it only pumped during starting. Then afterwards the fuel pump handled the rest. It just needed that little "bump" of fuel for quick starts.

The 520 has one that runs all the time the key is on and connected to the key switch.

The 418-C used a primer bulb

They all work yet each situation is different

 

  

[WHX?? 53,305]

4 hours ago, lynnmor said:

check valves as you have but never installed them. 

Don't bother it really doesn't work. I have them on all 520s and no luck. I try everywhere in the line. The bowl must empty out some how but it would have to go through two check valves to get back to the tank. Primer bulbs do work but no place to mount it with a cab on. Would have to be inside somewhere. 

 

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

“middle” Michigan and “high” Maine.

Where's that pic Plunger? @JCM  I don't think EB is gonna wanna stop over every  time I want to start it. 

 

Well after further review and finding a oil soaked mouse nest under the battery box I ripped into it some more. If Cleat changed out that valve spool with the valve still in he's my hero. Think he said it had a Kohler tho maybe a little more room. Worse part was getting the hood stand side off...  and all the grunge. there were some holes in the battery tray to just get a 7/16 to the bolts. Shoulda took the pic before a little clean up. Definitely different style hose fittings between years of this one and the donor. 

Edited 14 hours ago by WHX??

[cleat 8,054]

9 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Don't bother it really doesn't work. I have them on all 520s and no luck. I try everywhere in the line. The bowl must empty out some how but it would have to go through two check valves to get back to the tank. Primer bulbs do work but no place to mount it with a cab on. Would have to be inside somewhere. 

 

Where's that pic Plunger? @JCM  I don't think EB is gonna wanna stop over every  time I want to start it. 

 

Well after further review and finding a oil soaked mouse nest under the battery box I ripped into it some more. If Cleat changed out that valve spool with the valve still in he's my hero. Think he said it had a Kohler tho maybe a little more room. Worse part was getting the hood stand side off...  and all the grunge. there were some holes in the battery tray to just get a 7/16 to the bolts. Shoulda took the pic before a little clean up. Definitely different style hose fittings. 

 

Nope, my 520HC has the Onan.

It can be done in place. just need to get the front plate unbolted on the left side and loosen the bolts on the right side and it will move forward enough to get the screw out of the spool valve

I did not remove the hood stand side plate but I see it does give you much more room.

 

[cleat 8,054]

4 hours ago, lynnmor said:

Some years ago I brought up the use of squeeze bulbs on here and at least one member thought it was a joke.  Here again I haven't installed one since the ones worth installing take up a lot of room and are rather expensive.

 

I drilled out an old gas cap then screwed in a hose barb fitting.

I was then able to use a piece of hose connected to a primer bulb that I use to pressurize the tank a bit with air until I see the fuel filter fill up.

Tractor will then usually start right up.

Best thing is that you only need one and once the engine is running you can just remove it so it is not in the way.

This works with all of my wheel horses iregardless of engine type.

I have 10 tractors now so many of them sit for long periods of time.

I don't think a check valve matters much because I think that over time the fuel just evaporates out of the carb.

Actually I think it evaporates a bit from the tank as well because they always seem very low on fuel after sitting for a long time especially in the heat of the summer.

 

 

[WHX?? 53,305]

10 minutes ago, cleat said:

remove the hood stand side plate

Nine bolts and one machine screw  to get it off. Have to slide it out to the rear. Gonna be fun putting it back on. 

 

4 minutes ago, cleat said:

fuel just evaporates out of the carb.

Must ... I always hope somehow it wasn't draining into the motor.

Great idea on air pump  .. I was thinking a schrader valve and I have this little handy air pump for Harley air shocks. 

[cleat 8,054]

14 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Nine bolts and one machine screw  to get it off. Have to slide it out to the rear. Gonna be fun putting it back on. 

 

Must ... I always hope somehow it wasn't draining into the motor.

Great idea on air pump  .. I was thinking a schrader valve and I have this little handy air pump for Harley air shocks. 

Anything that puts just a little air in. It doesn't take much.

I have taken the cap off then blow into the tank as well but a little pump seems healthier and potentially less embarrassing. 

 

[Ed Kennell 43,779]

I use primer bulbs on all mine unless there is evidence the fuel pump is failing.  Then I go directly to an e-pump with an on/off switch.  Both work well for instant starts.

 

You do need to buy the expensive bulbs. The cheapos get hard and rot at the fittings.

[WHX?? 53,305]

8 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

he cheapos get hard and rot at the fittings.