cafoose 3,476 #1 Posted Monday at 02:40 AM I replaced the dog point screw on my 953 because the shifter was loose. Here's the thread: Now the gas tank is leaking and I'm looking for suggestions for how to seal it up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,763 #2 Posted Monday at 10:15 AM I super cleaned mine and soldered it. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,982 #3 Posted Monday at 12:00 PM Hmmm... is the lifting paint caused by a gas leak at the elbow fitting, or is that from severe corrosion from the inside of the tank?? Two different approaches.... fitting, remove it clean both sets of threads, reinstail using blue teflon tape. Corrosion inside - use RedKote or a similar fuel proof coating - ask @Pullstart about this. Doing this, you may only be buying a bit of time if the corrosion has compromised the integrity of the tank..... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 68,048 #4 Posted Monday at 12:26 PM I used KBS three part sealer on a two piece round hood tank. It worked great and is holding up still since 2019. I highly recommend it! 6 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,809 #5 Posted Monday at 12:28 PM Looks like some JB on there. Wonder if it was the tank weld stuff? Figure this on the outside and some coating on the inside might just do the trick. I would probably braze it if mine. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,954 #6 Posted Monday at 12:32 PM Trusting my memory here Chuck. I cut the hole in the seat pan to remove the tank for cleaning. Filled the tank with gravel and bungeed it to a spinning wheel for an hour for mechanical cleaning Pressure washed the inside and out. That's when I saw a crack around the pipe fitting which I soldered. Also coated the pitted areas on the bottom with epoxy. This fixed the leak, but In hind sight, I should have also coated the inside at this point. Can you determine if it is leaking around the fitting or from under the epoxy? From the bubbling of the paint in your pictiue, It appears one of the deep pits may have eaten thru. 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,960 #7 Posted Monday at 12:52 PM Unless the mechanical connection of the outlet nipple to the tank has become loose an inside seal like Kevin @Pullstart suggested would be the way to go, 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,839 #8 Posted Tuesday at 12:49 AM 12 hours ago, Pullstart said: I used KBS three part sealer on a two piece round hood tank. It worked great and is holding up still since 2019. I highly recommend it! I'll second that ... follow the directions to the letter you go this route. Pull the tank ... yah I know the tranny has to come out unless Ed Dog's method ... find out EXACTLY where it's leaking. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,476 #9 Posted Tuesday at 03:09 AM 2 hours ago, WHX?? said: Pull the tank ... yah I know the tranny has to come out unless Ed Dog's method I would advise anyone with a 953/1054 to use Ed's method of cutting the panel out under the seat. Makes shifter and tank access much easier especially if you have a sickle on it which also would need to be removed for access in a machine that's not modified 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 68,048 #10 Posted Tuesday at 10:57 AM 7 hours ago, cafoose said: I would advise anyone with a 953/1054 to use Ed's method of cutting the panel out under the seat. Makes shifter and tank access much easier especially if you have a sickle on it which also would need to be removed for access in a machine that's not modified pictures please? @19richie66 did a great job modifying a seat pan too. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,954 #11 Posted Tuesday at 11:31 AM 8 hours ago, cafoose said: I would advise anyone with a 953/1054 to use Ed's method of cutting the panel out under the seat. Makes shifter and tank access much easier especially if you have a sickle on it which also would need to be removed for access in a machine that's not modified Thanks Chuck. I remember the problem of getting access to the tank straps. I think I used some of my long fish hook removing forceps to reach in there. If I ever did another one, I would also modify the straps and blocks so all four bolts of the tank straps could be bolted to the removable cover before the entire assembly is dropped in the hole. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,476 #12 Posted Tuesday at 11:34 AM 38 minutes ago, Pullstart said: pictures please? @19richie66 did a great job modifying a seat pan too. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,960 #13 Posted Tuesday at 11:40 AM 5 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: If I ever did another one, I would also modify the straps and blocks so all four bolts of the tank straps could be bolted to the removable cover before the entire assembly is dropped in the hole. Yes, the two 1/4-20s that go into the tool box would be better off being relocated to the removable cover. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,954 #14 Posted Tuesday at 11:49 AM 6 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Yes, the two 1/4-20s that go into the tool box would be better off being relocated to the removable cover. Exactly Richard, and it could easily be done. Bend the tank strap ends in towards the tank instead of out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,839 #15 Posted Tuesday at 12:50 PM Here was a mod a PO did. Possibly to access the tank shifter area ??? This is on a carcass The Pullstart now has custody of. They did a nice job almost looks factory complete with the countersunk screws. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 68,048 #16 Posted Tuesday at 04:28 PM @WHX?? not sure I’ve ever noticed that! Awesome! 😎 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,755 #17 Posted Tuesday at 10:14 PM (edited) Of course I replaced the fuel tank and relocated it to the tool box slot. We made a nice tool tray for the opening. @JPWH has this now. He should buy the 2054 to go with it 😁 Edited Tuesday at 10:15 PM by 19richie66 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,839 #18 Posted yesterday at 01:50 AM 3 hours ago, 19richie66 said: relocated it to the tool box slot. We made a nice tool tray for the opening. That's the way it should have been factory Ritchie. Pain either way moving the seat to gas up or get a hitch pin. All the mid/later sixties models you have to lift the fender pans to get a tool. 9 hours ago, Pullstart said: I’ve ever noticed that! I did right away but it sure did look factory. Woulda never got the tank out through it but to futz with the shifter? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 6,541 #19 Posted 20 hours ago 22 hours ago, 19richie66 said: Of course I replaced the fuel tank and relocated it to the tool box slot. We made a nice tool tray for the opening. @JPWH has this now. He should buy the 2054 to go with it 😁 What 2054 @19richie66 ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,755 #20 Posted 15 hours ago 4 hours ago, JPWH said: What 2054 @19richie66 ? Hank’s sister Mildred 😁 1054 with a 20 hp Magnum……2054 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 711 #21 Posted 14 hours ago What a beast Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,755 #22 Posted 7 hours ago 7 hours ago, Easton Rich said: What a beast Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 6,541 #23 Posted 5 hours ago 10 hours ago, 19richie66 said: Hank’s sister Mildred 😁 1054 with a 20 hp Magnum……2054 You have my attention @19richie66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,960 #24 Posted 3 hours ago 12 hours ago, 19richie66 said: Mildred 😁 1054 with a 20 hp Magnum……2054 Richie, You had her at the Big Show this year, sounds strong and it sure got a lot of attention. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites