My 98 Wheel Horse 312-8

[Derek W 25]

I finally remembered that I hadn't shared a pic of my "new to me" 312-8.  It's got some rust but, all in all, it's in pretty good condition and it runs real well.  I'm currently hunting around for a muffler for it because the exhaust pipe looks like it was ripped off.  The tractor came with a large "stack" style muffler but I don't want to use it.  I'd really rather have an exhaust and muffler that sits closer to the engine.  

 

Anyway...here's a picture of my Wheel Horse

[peter lena 9,483]

@DerickW , personally would get a lubrication soak  going on that paint , looks like a perfect  time to save and enhance  patina . like penetrating oil  spray down on all painted surfaces , let it soak / sit for days , before  using a clean cloth  mineral oil rub down . bet that will just  show you a very good shine , also like a 6" electric palm buffer , and a cleaner wax , also like mothers , back to black  enhancer . seat will be an easy swap , look on line , for matching  seat frame bolt holes size diagram .also get the rear end drained , like a hi mirage , atf  fluid as a flushing agent , put some miles on that oil  , use every gear , replace shift boot . rotella 30 wt oil . is very good in those . give it a thorough  grease job , also  aerosol red spray grease , on linkage / levers  . others will chime in  on , their own ideas , welcome  to the site , pete   

[953 nut 62,432]

Several people have been using a Gravely muffler and are happy with it.                                        

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,769]

Description: Muffler - Found on older garden tractors with 12 Hp thru 16 Hp engines. Measures: 8-1/4" L X 3-3/4" OD; Inlet ID: 1-5/16", Outlet ID: 1-1/4"

Replaces Gravely 11203, 18543 and 20259700

[Derek W 25]

14 hours ago, peter lena said:

@DerickW , personally would get a lubrication soak  going on that paint , looks like a perfect  time to save and enhance  patina . like penetrating oil  spray down on all painted surfaces , let it soak / sit for days , before  using a clean cloth  mineral oil rub down . bet that will just  show you a very good shine , also like a 6" electric palm buffer , and a cleaner wax , also like mothers , back to black  enhancer . seat will be an easy swap , look on line , for matching  seat frame bolt holes size diagram .also get the rear end drained , like a hi mirage , atf  fluid as a flushing agent , put some miles on that oil  , use every gear , replace shift boot . rotella 30 wt oil . is very good in those . give it a thorough  grease job , also  aerosol red spray grease , on linkage / levers  . others will chime in  on , their own ideas , welcome  to the site , pete   

 

Thanks for that flood of info, Pete!  I'm not going to be restoring this tractor.  This Wheel Horse will be one of the three tractors that my wife, daughter, and I will be modifying into mud mowers and trail riders.  I won't talk much about the other two tractors because they are different brands.  However, your mechanical tips have definitely been noted!  

I saw some mud mower videos, on Youtube, earlier this year and it really looked like a lot of fun.  There is just something about the look of the Wheel Horse and I knew that I wasn't going to be happy unless I had one.  Now that I do have a Wheel Horse, I am on cloud 9.

[Derek W 25]

14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Several people have been using a Gravely muffler and are happy with it.                                        

Thank you for that!  I'll have a look around for one

 

[702854boy 305]

18 hours ago, peter lena said:

also get the rear end drained , like a hi mirage , atf  fluid as a flushing agent , put some miles on that oil  , use every gear , replace shift boot . rotella 30 wt oil

Since it is a manual use diesel or something as a solvent, still run it in every gear, and then fill it up with 80w-90 gear oil

[Derek W 25]

39 minutes ago, 702854boy said:

Since it is a manual use diesel or something as a solvent, still run it in every gear, and then fill it up with 80w-90 gear oil

 

I keep a spare jug in my garage just for diesel fuel, despite the fact that I don't own anything that uses diesel fuel.....it just makes a great solvent, as you said. 

[peter lena 9,483]

@Derek W   as you familiarize  yourself with your  unit  , important to make a regular  , check over ,  a way to spot anything that is different , example , when I use any  of my 3 , at finish , top up tank , add, a couple ounces sta bil fuel  treatment , never let the tank go empty , check the rear end oil dip stick , check engine oil , look for anything  , that might have given , you a sound or , functional difference , develop a squeak , or noise that was not there ? been doing that  for many years , don't even think about , a vey common  improvement  spot  clutch pedal  , function , should be smooth / easy with zero binding , or  sudden  jumping at  function ? like a penetrating oil first  , make the rust run out , then an aerosol  red grease , extension tube . for  exact  swing ease . how about your  choke and throttle cables ? smooth and easy . responsive ?  again penetrating oil , 3n1 is good , then after  its better , like a hydraulic oil , like SUPER LUBE , stays with it , incredible temp , function range . just ask , pete

[Derek W 25]

19 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Derek W   as you familiarize  yourself with your  unit  , important to make a regular  , check over ,  a way to spot anything that is different , example , when I use any  of my 3 , at finish , top up tank , add, a couple ounces sta bil fuel  treatment , never let the tank go empty , check the rear end oil dip stick , check engine oil , look for anything  , that might have given , you a sound or , functional difference , develop a squeak , or noise that was not there ? been doing that  for many years , don't even think about , a vey common  improvement  spot  clutch pedal  , function , should be smooth / easy with zero binding , or  sudden  jumping at  function ? like a penetrating oil first  , make the rust run out , then an aerosol  red grease , extension tube . for  exact  swing ease . how about your  choke and throttle cables ? smooth and easy . responsive ?  again penetrating oil , 3n1 is good , then after  its better , like a hydraulic oil , like SUPER LUBE , stays with it , incredible temp , function range . just ask , pete

 

All of that is incredibly helpful!  It's too much to make notes of, so I just took a screen shot of your entire reply and printed it out lol.  All of that makes immense sense to me and, although I did consider some of what you said, I didn't consider everything that you said.....but I will definitely check and recheck all of that.  Thank you sir!

[peter lena 9,483]

@Derek W  we all look at the same thing differently  , bought my first horse in 82 , still have it , very often look at another similar tractor , with glairing  to me ,opportunity  to improve things , can only make a suggestion , like , repetitive problems  , ?  why ?  opportunity  to eradicate it , its always there , always does the same thing , like to roller stool around it , and make things better  .  also like to  protect my painted surfaces with  lubrication ,  another experiment  , years ago  , to this day , my tractors  get a  lubrication rub down , clean/ shine / zero rust , also oil  spray down my  attachment's , my mower decks'  are now  , cleaned and oil  sprayed , over winter  ,  months of lubricant  on a deck underside , eliminates , rust ,and stays with the metal . and don't call me sir ,  pete    

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,769]

14 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Description: Muffler - Found on older garden tractors with 12 Hp thru 16 Hp engines. Measures: 8-1/4" L X 3-3/4" OD; Inlet ID: 1-5/16", Outlet ID: 1-1/4"

Replaces Gravely 11203, 18543 and 20259700

If I remember correctly the 16hp Gravelys were a twin cylinder so twin mufflers - one for each side.

I would not want to use a single muffler on anything larger than 12hp.

 

[Derek W 25]

I appreciate the muffler suggestion.  I went ahead and ordered one and it arrived today.  It's smaller than I thought it would be but that's a good thing.  I held it in place and I like the look.  I just need to get some tubing and get this welded up.

 

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,115]

@Derek W just a heads up something might be off with your clutch. Unless you’re in the middle of giving it a once over. If so carry on.

@gwest_ca I’ve got a fairly short Amazon muffler on my C-141 with a k321 14hp it doesn’t seem to be overly loud or obnoxious sounding.

Edited Saturday at 03:46 PM by MainelyWheelhorse

[cleat 7,724]

21 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said:

@Derek W just a heads up something might be off with your clutch. Unless you’re in the middle of giving it a once over. If so carry on.

@gwest_ca I’ve got a fairly short Amazon muffler on my C-141 with a k321 14hp it doesn’t seem to be overly loud or obnoxious sounding.

 

I think it's the new style pedal that makes it look like that.

 

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,115]

2 hours ago, cleat said:

 

I think it's the new style pedal that makes it look like that.

 

Ah, the stomp on it clutch…😁

[Derek W 25]

On 11/15/2025 at 10:45 AM, MainelyWheelhorse said:

@Derek W just a heads up something might be off with your clutch. Unless you’re in the middle of giving it a once over. If so carry on.

@gwest_ca I’ve got a fairly short Amazon muffler on my C-141 with a k321 14hp it doesn’t seem to be overly loud or obnoxious sounding.

You're right about the clutch!  It doesn't always return to the engaged position.  I've greased the pedal and I've added a new return spring.  Now, the pedal comes back a bit better but I still have to pull it back with my foot, from time to time.  There is a small gas strut, on the right side, that is attached to the clutch. I'm assuming it helps with the clutch return and engagement. Maybe it has gotten worn out.  The whole thing is still a work in progress.

[cleat 7,724]

7 minutes ago, Derek W said:

You're right about the clutch!  It doesn't always return to the engaged position.  I've greased the pedal and I've added a new return spring.  Now, the pedal comes back a bit better but I still have to pull it back with my foot, from time to time.  There is a small gas strut, on the right side, that is attached to the clutch. I'm assuming it helps with the clutch return and engagement. Maybe it has gotten worn out.  The whole thing is still a work in progress.

 

That is just the clutch damper.

I don't have one on either of my 8 speed machines.

So long as you gently lift your foot from the clutch pedal it is not really needed.

 

None of my standard shift cars or my larger diesel tractor have had dampers on the clutch pedal.

 

If it were mine I would just remove it.

[953 nut 62,432]

15 minutes ago, Derek W said:

I'm assuming it helps with the clutch return and engagement.

It slows the clutch engagement and was probably added because the lawyers wanted to avoid law suites. As @cleat said, remove it if it is causing a problem and be careful releasing the clutch.

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,115]

15 minutes ago, Derek W said:

You're right about the clutch!  It doesn't always return to the engaged position.  I've greased the pedal and I've added a new return spring.  Now, the pedal comes back a bit better but I still have to pull it back with my foot, from time to time.  There is a small gas strut, on the right side, that is attached to the clutch. I'm assuming it helps with the clutch return and engagement. Maybe it has gotten worn out.  The whole thing is still a work in progress.

That’s what I figured. I know the feeling. All of mine are steadily being worked on too. My 308 and 312 are manuals so as soon as I saw it in that position I figured it was being worked on or work in progress.

[Racinbob 12,275]

56 minutes ago, Derek W said:

You're right about the clutch!  It doesn't always return to the engaged position.  I've greased the pedal and I've added a new return spring.  Now, the pedal comes back a bit better but I still have to pull it back with my foot, from time to time.  There is a small gas strut, on the right side, that is attached to the clutch. I'm assuming it helps with the clutch return and engagement. Maybe it has gotten worn out.  The whole thing is still a work in progress.

 

Derek, I would definitely remove that damper entirely. It's the culprit giving you trouble and not needed. Wheel Horses worked fine for decades without that stupid damper and still do today. 

[Derek W 25]

It sounds pretty unanimous that the damper needs to go, lol.  I'll work on it.  Thanks guys!!!

[Racinbob 12,275]

When I purchased my 05 in 09 it was the first time I dealt with the damper. I didn't even realize it had one but I did know that something was screwed up with the clutching. I found it, removed it and then my pedal was pulsing. The belt looked good but I replaced it anyways. All was good. 

I also strong suggest that you use only a 108035 spring if you haven't already.