New member and new to me 520h

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

I liberated a 520H from a neighbor's shed after probably 18 years of dormancy. Think it is a '93. They parked it because the ignition coil was bad. I spent a few hours searching for any parts that may have been removed before. After I got it home I started troubleshoot everything. First thing I did was track down service/owners manuals and parts diagrams. 

 

Ignition coil test confirmed it was faulty. It was only sending spark to one plug. With that confirmed, I moved on to check out fuel system. Tank doesn't leak. Lines are surprisingly good. Fuel pump, no pumpy. Ordered one of those too. Also threw a prefilter in the cart too. Thanks to the speed of the jungle megacorp, I got the parts by noon the next day. 

 

I installed the not-so-perfectly fitting coil, and the near perfect fitting fuel pump. Thankfully I knew well enough to pump whatever the fuel pump sent out first into a jar instead of the carburetor. It was unholy. After I was satisfied that it was good gas, I hooked it up to the filter and gave it a crank. It fired right up like it was parked the day before. Smoked like a sonuvagun for a minute, then it stopped and just ran beautifully. After I was satisfied that the engine was good I moved around and started looking at everything else. Tires were dry rotted. Headlights didn't work. Gauges don't work. Hydraulics work. It moves forward and reverse. 

 

I spent the better part of day 3 trying to get headlights sorted while I wait for new tires. After all, this is going to be a snow mover first. I started with the bulbs. One good, one bad. Switch was also toast. Jumped the lines to bypass the switch and got 12v to the lights. Still no light. Power to fuse block was good. Fuse was good. Still getting 12v to lights, with no light. Figured loose connection was to blame, squeezed every blade connection and added a bit of wire to the fuse legs to fit the block better. There was light! Installed new switch and lights still worked, success. Gauges still don't work. Well, the HP% Gauge works. And voltage moves, but is wildly inaccurate. Oh well, it runs without them, they will have to wait, unless y'all know some easy fixes. On to the PTO. 

 

Here is where I am having a real issue. I can figure out a fair bit on my own without outside guidance, but the PTO setup is all new to me. Is the outer part that attaches to implements supposed to free spin until activated at the lever? I don't really know. 

 

Here are a few pictures I grabbed this evening. Serial number is pretty hard to read.

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

[lynnmor 8,019]

9 minutes ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

Here is where I am having a real issue. I can figure out a fair bit on my own without outside guidance, but the PTO setup is all new to me. Is the outer part that attaches to implements supposed to free spin until activated at the lever? I don't really know. 

 

 

The PTO pulley will spin rather freely when the PTO isn't engaged, you may need to adjust that little brake pad so there is .012" clearance with the lever engaged.  That brake does next to nothing and many ignore it.  The trunnion is upside down, the pin should go across the top, perhaps you have a loose pivot bolt.

[parsonsponyz 248]

 

What lynmoor said The PTO pulley will spin rather freely when the PTO isn't engaged, you may need to adjust that little brake pad so there is .012" clearance with the lever engaged.  That brake does next to nothing and many ignore it.

When you have an attachment hooked up it won't spin.

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

18 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

The PTO pulley will spin rather freely when the PTO isn't engaged, you may need to adjust that little brake pad so there is .012" clearance with the lever engaged.  That brake does next to nothing and many ignore it.  The trunnion is upside down, the pin should go across the top, perhaps you have a loose pivot bolt.

I'll swap the trunnion tomorrow. The brake pad was at about .013 when I put gauges on it. I just assumed the pully would free spin when not engaged. As it is now, turning the PTO will turn the engine over as well. I'm going to pull the clips off and see if I can pull it off, may be seized on. 

[JCM 10,286]

Nice to see someone saving another 520 instead or parting it out.     Good luck with it. Great tractor when properly maintained. 

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

5 minutes ago, JCM said:

Nice to see someone saving another 520 instead or parting it out.     Good luck with it. Great tractor when properly maintained. 

I'm trying to save it. It seems pretty solid except for the little things that drive you crazy and when you dig into them you find even more wrong. Maybe in the spring I'll be able to strip it down and really get it going. For the time being, it runs, moves in both directions, and doesn't leak a drop. So I'll take it. 

[Pullstart 67,615]

[Ed Kennell 42,736]

1 hour ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

may be seized on. 

I never saw one seized.  You should see it move in and out when you engage/disengage the PTO lever.    Could be the rod is set too short and not allowing it to disengage.

 

to the 

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

Just now, Ed Kennell said:

I never saw one seized.  You should see it move in and out when you engage/disengage the PTO lever.    Could be the rod is set too short and not allowing it to disengage.

 

to the 

I totally disconnected the rods and swung the hoop? Out of the way. It was still turning the whole engine. Maybe it just needs a load out on it without being engaged, it did sit for almost 20 years. 

[Ed Kennell 42,736]

Maybe try inserting a thin putty knife between the PTO face and the clutch disc.

 

 

Edited yesterday at 12:49 AM by Ed Kennell

[702854boy 144]

3 minutes ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

I totally disconnected the rods and swung the hoop? Out of the way. It was still turning the whole engine. Maybe it just needs a load out on it without being engaged, it did sit for almost 20 years. 

You may have to take it off and replace the bearings and I'll tag @peter lena so he can explain as I've seen it called, the Greasy Pete treatment.

[kpinnc 15,227]

24 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Maybe try inserting a thin putty knife between the PTO face and the clutch disc.

 

Also a common practice in my shop is to see how far into the woods I can throw that little brake pad.  They fly surprisingly well...

 

The only time it does anything remotely beneficial is if you have no belt on the PTO it will slow the bell down when disengaged, and it won't freewheel when you shut down the engine. 

 

It also makes changing implements or replacing a drive belt no longer "tool free". 

 

 

[oliver2-44 10,893]

The PTO on my C101 was seized when I got it. it had set several years.  I soaked it with kroil a few days, then worked it with a putty knife and  but some small spots of clutch material stayed rust attached to the the PTO face. 

Rust can have a tight grip!

I suggest you replace the fuel hose, even if it looks good on the outside.  Ethanol fuel dissolves or makes them crumble from the inside.  Also the Molex 9 pin electrical connect is a known corrosion/overheating problem on that machine. While replacements are available new, some have removed them and just soldered the wires together.  

 

 

Edited yesterday at 01:28 AM by oliver2-44

[WHX?? 52,439]

4 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

throw that little brake pad

Agreed ... supposed to be their mandatory nowadays blade brake. 

38 minutes ago, iR8Leprechaun said:

it just needs a load out on it without being engaged

Agreed as well ... hopefully just a little stuck. It should slide right off. All parts in the bell are available yet. 

You came to the right place for all things 520. I have five of them and many others here have them. 

[SylvanLakeWH 29,121]

[953 nut 61,400]

9 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

9 pin electrical connect is a known corrosion/overheating problem on that machine. While replacements are available new, some have removed them and just soldered the wires together.  

If your 9 pin connector is in good condition it would be a good idea to disconnect, clean, and add some dielectric grease to the connections to keep moisture out. Use it on the fuse holders too.

Here is a link to all of the manuals we have related to your 520.   https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=73501&quick=1&type=downloads_file

[peter lena 9,378]

@ 953nut  , another thing about those 9 pin units is  HOT ORIGINAL LOCATION , what an OPORTUNITY  TO MOVE IT CLOSER TO AIR FLOW  ?   that  drive belt side shield , can be a twofer , metal shop , hole punch , to insure  hot air flow out  , 9pin  remount just off the in side of that , constant  hot air  discharge , just  sayin , pete

[peter lena 9,378]

@953 nut  , yup , that belt guard  in a metal  shop  , would be  simple / easy  , they have  bench presses , beverly shear  , type  hole punches , retain the original  belt guard intent  but add  vastly  more  engine heat  discharge . easy to ask ,  show what you want . pete .

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

It is definitely seized on. The pulley is also cracked in a couple places. Once I pull it off, assuming I can, I'll grind them out and weld it back. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of what this tractor really needs. Money. Or time. Snow will fly soon enough. 

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

[Bill D 2,332]

Cracked in three places.   The thrust bearing end is just about snapped clean off.  Never seen that before.

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

Got it off. Slide hammer FTW. Clutch plate also has a Crack. Needle bearings look ok. Need some grease, but they roll ok. The pulley actually had 3 cracks. Can't figure why it would Crack so many places. Still think I'm going to grind and weld and grind some more. Unless I can find a whole setup for reasonable price. 

 

This is all basically a charity project, so I'm not trying to be cheap, buuutttttt I can't afford to be thorough either. At least not right now. 

[peter lena 9,378]

@iR8Leprechaun   have a couple of these ?https://www.google.com/search?q=wonder+bar++tool&sca_esv=09f2b9d0e2ee4b15&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AE3TifOzSKnX7njpuSEDTsRAG1y-  , doing an equal leverage push / out   along with  KROIL  PENETRANT , has made deck  spindle removal  , much easier , realise its a different set up  , yet , the push out equal  leverage  , has made  frozen spindles , a non issue , put the 90 degree  bottom bend  , on each side of the base of the  cone , and push out  equally  , the solid leverage , might do it  , works on mower decks , same principle , important to  have a solid fit , and strong  even push out of bars . there is a needle bearing inside that , probably  froze up , with lubrication failure . use a hi temp  550  deg  chassis grease  , lucas green , its also polyurea rated , so it stays with the  bearing , just a suggestion , pete 

[iR8Leprechaun 30]

Just now, peter lena said:

@iR8Leprechaun   have a couple of these ?https://www.google.com/search?q=wonder+bar++tool&sca_esv=09f2b9d0e2ee4b15&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AE3TifOzSKnX7njpuSEDTsRAG1y-  , doing an equal leverage push / out   along with  KROIL  PENETRANT , has made deck  spindle removal  , much easier , realise its a different set up  , yet , the push out equal  leverage  , has made  frozen spindles , a non issue , put the 90 degree  bottom bend  , on each side of the base of the  cone , and push out  equally  , the solid leverage , might do it  , works on mower decks , same principle , important to  have a solid fit , and strong  even push out of bars . there is a needle bearing inside that , probably  froze up , with lubrication failure . use a hi temp  550  deg  chassis grease  , lucas green , its also polyurea rated , so it stays with the  bearing , just a suggestion , pete 

I ended up getting it free with a little PB Blaster and a slide hammer working around it little by little.