ebinmaine 73,568 #1 Posted August 30 (edited) Well folks I have this here newly acquired 1994 520H that I knew before purchase does not run. PO states "it clicked" and that was it. I'd like it to back off the trailer under it's own power if possible. Where do I start? @JCM @MainelyWheelhorse @OldWorkHorse @Stepney @Maz91 Edited August 31 by ebinmaine Corrected year Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,921 #2 Posted August 30 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Well folks I have this here newly acquired 1992 520H that I knew before purchase does not run. PO states "it clicked" and that was it. I'd like it to back off the trailer under it's own power if possible. Where do I start? @JCM @MainelyWheelhorse @OldWorkHorse @Stepney @Maz91 See that light blue wire in the bottom right of your photo? Check for 12 volts between it and ground when you turn the switch to start. Download the demystification guide to see the starting circuit simplified. The seat switch and PTO switch should pass current. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 8,118 #3 Posted August 30 Wiggle the 9-pin connector. When mine went bad on the 416, wiggling the connector would get it to briefly connect and run. If I held it with some pressure I could drive it. After replacing it, works perfectly. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,312 #5 Posted August 31 I made a jump box using an ignition switch. Battery positive to the "B" terminal, one wire from the "S" terminal to the starter solenoid, one wire from the "I" terminal to the coil positive. Should be enough to get you running. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,949 #6 Posted August 31 Wow, Eric, you’ve gone big time. I hope it all works out for you. It sounds like you have good help already. Good luck with the tractor. Should be a great worker. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #7 Posted August 31 Perfect. Thanks Gents. Now I've got good tech for some quick checks, all wiring harness info, and a fast start program! Nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,949 #8 Posted August 31 (edited) Wiring was never my strong point. I guess that’s why I always have and had Start/Gen tractors. Good luck with it Eric. Edited August 31 by Retired Wrencher 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,085 #9 Posted August 31 Yup 9 pin is the first thing to check after the battery 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 1,786 #10 Posted August 31 @ebinmaine I’m late to the party. But, if it clicks you may need to just boost the battery. My 308 does that when the battery is dead a boost and voila it’s running. The Onan’s may be a bit different though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #12 Posted August 31 FYI. This is a 1994 by serial number. PO states 92. Doesn't appear to matter for above info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,921 #13 Posted August 31 Just now, ebinmaine said: FYI. This is a 1994 by serial number. PO states 92. Doesn't appear to matter for above info. 91 to 97 didn't change very much. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maz91 262 #14 Posted August 31 Talk dirty to it!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,921 #15 Posted August 31 You can pull that light blue wire off the starter solonoid and run a jumper from the battery plus to the solonoid as a test. If it cranks, the solonoid, starter and battery are good. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #16 Posted August 31 Battery static voltage. 12.68. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #17 Posted August 31 Which of these wires needs to be pin connected together to create a complete starting and running circuit? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #18 Posted August 31 10 minutes ago, lynnmor said: You can pull that light blue wire off the starter solonoid and run a jumper from the battery plus to the solonoid as a test. If it cranks, the solonoid, starter and battery are good. Tried this. We do have crank! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,921 #19 Posted August 31 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Tried this. We do have crank! Good, now if you want it to work correctly you need to follow the diagrams in the Demystification Guide. The seat, PTO, ignition and neutral switches need to work or be bypassed. There are 3 relays behind the battery that can be swapped around to test their function, they are best reached by removing the belt guard. Others have mentioned the 9 pin connector. I saw your photos and that tractor never saw a roof, I will never buy another Onan that was abused in that manner. The engine hardware and the chassis electrics will have serious corrosion making repairs difficult. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #20 Posted August 31 13 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I saw your photos and that tractor never saw a roof, I will never buy another Onan that was abused in that manner. The engine hardware and the chassis electrics will have serious corrosion making repairs difficult. Absolutely agreed. This was not meant to be a runner for me or anyone else. The ONLY reasoning for the desire to drive is testing of the transmission (and to a lesser extent, engine) for proper operation and to facilitate easier removal from the trailer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #21 Posted August 31 Well. Here's a problem... Fuses should not look like a lava bubble. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,921 #22 Posted August 31 40 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Well. Here's a problem... Fuses should not look like a lava bubble. If you want to replace the fuse block, Google DORMAN 85668, RockAuto has them for $4.04, and they are available from many auto parts stores for varied prices. A vendor has covers for the fuse block to keep the water and debris out. The contacts are plain brass and corrode making a bad connection that gets hot. Of course you likely aren't interested in the block and can simply install inline fuses as wanted. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 1,786 #23 Posted August 31 @ebinmaine what does it look like under the fuse? If it’s good, I’d clean it out, and you may be able to swap the fuse to a good one to get it off the trailer. Then strip it down. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 73,568 #24 Posted August 31 16 minutes ago, MainelyWheelhorse said: @ebinmaine what does it look like under the fuse? If it’s good, I’d clean it out, and you may be able to swap the fuse to a good one to get it off the trailer. Then strip it down. It's trashed. Melted. Kaput. The whole end of the actual fuse holder is trash. Also the wire for the VR broke off with a light grazing touch. This wiring is so delicate I've decided to abort the mission. ... for now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,248 #25 Posted August 31 (edited) 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Battery static voltage. 12.68. Doesn't mean much for a weak battery. I”ve had a static 13 go to 8 as soon as I switched to “start”. Luckily, there was a battery sale at Tractor Supply that day! 18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: This wiring is so delicate I've decided to abort the mission. ... for now. Frankly, you are lucky it didn’t start a fire! Edited August 31 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites