nylyon-(Admin) 7,989 #1 Posted August 11 Quick tip to fully lubricate your throttle or choke cables. Remove the cable from the engine side. Stick a ¼” vacuum hose over the end of the cable. Using some sort of a syringe which fits on the vacuum line, inject oil or grease into the cable. I used marine gear oil to help with potential water intrusion. Gently squeeze the oil into the cable until it comes out the other end. Work the cable back and forth and viola, cable is fully lubricated. 6 3 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,527 #2 Posted August 11 I take a slightly different approach. I remove the cable assembly and place it vertically in the vise with the knob end up and pulled. Drip the MMO down the inner cable, and place a paper towel on the floor under it. Repeat several times until the oil migrates thru and the spot appears on the towel. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,308 #3 Posted August 11 @nylyon @ri702bill been using super lube hydraulic oil for years , have also used light extension springs , on cable mount point holes , to assist pull to close function . rectifier mounting spot has 2 perfect light bolts , to attach , a small piece of perforated steel , for spring pull point . think about it , every time you move throttle / choke lever , its spring assisted to close , have this on my 3 units . on initial trial , how can I MAKE THIS WORK EASIER ? every time you move lever , it has spring assist slide help to close they all consistently work , always tweaking around , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-85 768 #4 Posted August 12 Although not very fashionable, I've stripped off all the black plastic outer sheathing on the cable and then soaked the whole cable with oil. I have long thought the black plastic sheathings tends to hold moisture within it and can't escape causing it to rust and fail, that's what I do and what it looks like. Here's a sample. C-85 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,989 #5 Posted August 12 How does that hold up in the winter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,989 #6 Posted August 12 Going to do the 310’s tomorrow, I’ll take some pictures to show how it works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cee245 846 #7 Posted August 12 I've had luck with these. I've had several over the years. Usually from losing them, but they hold up well enough. You put it over the end of the cable amd secure it, wrap with a rag cuz its messy and let it run down cable by gravityof possible. I've just used wd40. I was able to free up the choke cable on 2 tractors I recently picked up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,427 #8 Posted August 12 1 hour ago, C-85 said: Although not very fashionable, I've stripped off all the black plastic outer sheathing on the cable and then soaked the whole cable with oil. Especially if you make the cable into a loop or two to open the coils a bit. I have started to use 80w-90 on a lot of cables and joints, it has more rust preventive additives than motor oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,527 #9 Posted August 12 Ariens SnowThto throttle cable is plastic coated too. And it would freeze us solid in cold weather. I cut a Vee notch away in the outer sheathing at the underside of the 6 o'clock position in the loop to let the moisture out. Gravity caused the problem, let gravity fix it...... Hardly noticable & it works. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,989 #10 Posted August 12 Easy to do start by removing the cables from the engine side. On the 10HP Magnum this is 1 screw Add your lubricant of choice to your syringe, I am using a bicycle brake bleeding syringe, but I think a child medicine syringe would work as well. Hint: Don’t add more than you are willing to clean up should the host pop off, or you have leak somewhere. On the cable you will be lubricating, slide the ¼” vacuum tube over the end. Apply firm pressure to the syringe pushing the oil into the cable while working the control on the dash until you see clean oil coming out. Put the cables back on and you’re done. This tractor took all of 10 minutes for the throttle and choke cables. I will probably make this an annual maintenance item should keep the cables moving easily and free from rust. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,308 #11 Posted August 12 @nylyon @ri702bill @JoeM@Cee245@C-85 you are right there , for spring pull assist !# 10 picture ! rectifier mount 2 bolts just above that , add a small piece of PREFORATED metal to bolt point , have any light extension springs to experiment with ? prorated metal to multi holed cable mounts , outer edge for leverage advantage . every time you , move throttle / choke the spring pulls against it , try spring swap for more / less drag assist , every time you move the lever its spring assisted , to close no more hack saw dragging noise . thats what I have . you have the lubrication assist , now add the spring pull , dare you to try it ! talk to me , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,836 #12 Posted August 13 On 8/11/2025 at 8:52 AM, nylyon said: Quick tip to fully lubricate your throttle or choke cables. Remove the cable from the engine side. Stick a ¼” vacuum hose over the end of the cable. Using some sort of a syringe which fits on the vacuum line, inject oil or grease into the cable. I used marine gear oil to help with potential water intrusion. Gently squeeze the oil into the cable until it comes out the other end. Work the cable back and forth and viola, cable is fully lubricated. Nylon I have been using one of these for a very long time. It was originally made for motorcycles, but I’ve been using it on snowmobiles and all my tractors. It works very well. Just my two cents Nylon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,989 #13 Posted August 13 Same concept Share this post Link to post Share on other sites