FLtractor 54 #1 Posted Wednesday at 10:45 PM (edited) Started my 856 tonight after not starting it In probably 1- 2 months.. kept In non insulated, open to humidity and moisture air but not as rain or sun metal shed in central Florida… started and drove then it shut off.. gas tank (with previous owner regular gas still in it) just about empty.. so put half a tank in from plastic cans I keep outside under a lean too.. non ethanol fuel.. bought about 2 months ago.. turned key and played with throttle and choke over and over till engine wanted to start but only cranked then got weaker and weaker till no more engine turn over yet tractor dash light turns on.. and no noise from tractor now.. checked gas tank .. had same amout. Of gas as before filled.. looked under and the round knob leaking so I turned it tight but didn’t see any gas on under parts of tractor.. any thoughts on why this is occurring and how to get tractor running starting properly at this point? Battery dated 5/23. Only differences I’ve done tonight vs every other time started tractor is filled with gas and put on emergency brake for first time ever when on incline - but that’s not electrical so I don’t believe that would have any impact on what’s going on. Edited Wednesday at 10:47 PM by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,641 #2 Posted Wednesday at 10:58 PM Just for starters, dump the sediment bowl on the carb. It's a common spot for condensation to build up and attract crud due to corrosion of the aluminum. Be careful when removing it. Do not twist the bowl so you don't destroy the seal. If that doesn't solve the problem you might have to replace your fuel lines and filter. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,984 #3 Posted Wednesday at 11:05 PM 17 minutes ago, FLtractor said: (with previous owner regular gas still in it) Did the previous owner use non-ethanol gas? I would suggest you replace the fuel line and filter, check to see if the fuel pump is functioning and plan on rebuilding the carburator. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #4 Posted Wednesday at 11:11 PM (edited) 6 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Did the previous owner use non-ethanol gas? I would suggest you replace the fuel line and filter, check to see if the fuel pump is functioning and plan on rebuilding the carburator. No he said he used regular gas for 4 years he owned it .. fuel filter is about a year -2 years old he said. Looks clean to me.. any videos on rebuilding the carburetor? What size fuel line and kind of tubing should I get? 13 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Just for starters, dump the sediment bowl on the carb. It's a common spot for condensation to build up and attract crud due to corrosion of the aluminum. Be careful when removing it. Do not twist the bowl so you don't destroy the seal. If that doesn't solve the problem you might have to replace your fuel lines and filter. Have a video on easy sediment bowl dump? Edited Wednesday at 11:12 PM by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #5 Posted Wednesday at 11:14 PM 24 minutes ago, FLtractor said: looked under and the round knob leaking A#1. Replace ALL fuel lines AND the TANK OUTLET. That's a maintenance item. And it's obviously broken. Fuel filter is a once a year replacement. Fuel LINE with ethanol can be just a few months. 1/4 rubber gas line. Get all new screw clamps too. Yours are likely worn out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,641 #6 Posted Wednesday at 11:18 PM 4 minutes ago, FLtractor said: Have a video on easy sediment bowl dump? I don't see any for that specifically, but it's just a single 1/2 short bolt in the bottom of the bowl that holds it on. Again, don't twist it to remove. Don't torque it on reinstallation. Just gently snug it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #7 Posted Wednesday at 11:19 PM (edited) 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: A#1. Replace ALL fuel lines AND the TANK OUTLET. That's a maintenance item. And it's obviously broken. Fuel filter is a once a year replacement. Fuel LINE with ethanol can be just a few months. 1/4 rubber gas line. Get all new screw clamps too. Yours are likely worn out. Is this a screw clamp that i need to replace? It was dripping. Where do I get a replacement? One of the Wheelhorse parts dealers on here? Is this the tank outlet you’re speaking of? Edited Wednesday at 11:19 PM by FLtractor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #8 Posted Wednesday at 11:24 PM 2 minutes ago, FLtractor said: Is this a screw clamp that i need to replace? It was dripping. Where do I get a replacement? One of the Wheelhorse parts dealers on here? Is this the tank outlet you’re speaking of? Yellow with "C" is the screw clamp. Red with the "V" is the valve. The valve will likely screw into the tank bottom. Check with @76c12091520h Brian Badman? Otherwise PLEASE PLEASE do yourself a favor and get good quality parts. Not off the jungle site. I've had great luck dealing with Aircraft Spruce Company for fuel related parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #9 Posted Wednesday at 11:42 PM 43 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Just for starters, dump the sediment bowl on the carb. It's a common spot for condensation to build up and attract crud due to corrosion of the aluminum. Be careful when removing it. Do not twist the bowl so you don't destroy the seal. If that doesn't solve the problem you might have to replace your fuel lines and filter. If I do accidentally destroy seal or it breaks crubbles from being so old .. is aircraft spruce best place for replacement? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,419 #10 Posted Wednesday at 11:46 PM Not all sediment bows are the same - parts usually do not interchange. If you ruin the bowl gasket, you either need to get one, make your own, or worst case a whole new sediment bowl assembly...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #11 Posted Wednesday at 11:50 PM 5 minutes ago, FLtractor said: If I do accidentally destroy seal or it breaks crubbles from being so old .. is aircraft spruce best place for replacement? 1 minute ago, ri702bill said: Not all sediment bows are the same - parts usually do not interchange. If you ruin the bowl gasket, you either need to get one, make your own, or worst case a whole new sediment bowl assembly...... 856 shouldn't have a glass sediment bowl. @kpinnc maybe carb bowl? Personally I wouldn't try disassembly in that without having a carb rebuild kit on hand. Contact Bill's Place for a genuine Kohler kit at a great price. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #12 Posted Wednesday at 11:50 PM 25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Yellow with "C" is the screw clamp. Red with the "V" is the valve. The valve will likely screw into the tank bottom. Check with @76c12091520h Brian Badman? Otherwise PLEASE PLEASE do yourself a favor and get good quality parts. Not off the jungle site. I've had great luck dealing with Aircraft Spruce Company for fuel related parts. I know you said to get quality parts.. but would you recommend I see it I can order a bundle such as this? But with quality parts ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/325522697222?_skw=1966+wheelhorse+856+fuel+tank+valve&itmmeta=01K1EVR71TXV53YDVHE51ZYDTJ&hash=item4bcaaa2c06:g:uyEAAOSwwQpi6fxm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fLDFByXMR4geYgCFePo%2FsS5sm9EKwVSED6gs2cKc%2Fhd0zraI0RXLJB5eiWAKO%2FnYolFwF7z5sKaEmYGFNzLDAnJ2QXsNdMCtpww6LIa8LOmiUwL%2Fii3O4YXn2Uqhyzh%2FJiUuhBjLqPgXYy4qlY9%2FGDeAsqCel9boTGqzFk2T89MkVaLNg2u%2BI6ojGKX2gwXhXXnB7EuD3sFq6W3cj5lRxh5skgU8MxfdL0%2F8rvLBgtt26dcOG03c%2BCJduKsVsiMPON2EcIGxKCeVs4ygXxuQA19PWTWsB0NQSPntckqOhcK%2FSRnDJbAJr1cixDhVUhQH8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Tx4NuLZg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #13 Posted Wednesday at 11:52 PM 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: 856 shouldn't have a glass sediment bowl. @kpinnc maybe carb bowl? Personally I wouldn't try disassembly in that without having a carb rebuild kit on hand. Contact Bill's Place for a genuine Kohler kit at a great price. Do you have a link to his webpage ? Or contact info.. being bills place is very generic 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #14 Posted Wednesday at 11:53 PM Quality parts don't come in bundles. PM me for links to what you need. I have all the parts here because I keep my own Parts Department for our tractors but you're better off getting them from the sellers so the freight is saved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #15 Posted Wednesday at 11:54 PM 1 minute ago, FLtractor said: Do you have a link to his webpage ? Or contact info.. being bills place is very generic Carb kit PM sent Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,641 #16 Posted yesterday at 12:38 AM (edited) 58 minutes ago, FLtractor said: If I do accidentally destroy seal or it breaks crubbles from being so old .. is aircraft spruce best place for replacement? Most Kohler K181 carb kits are the same. They should come with a new gasket seal. Of course at that point I would go ahead and remove and clean the carb components. Plently of videos on YouTube for that. @ebinmaine beat me to it. And yeah, I'm talking about the carb bowl. Edited yesterday at 12:41 AM by kpinnc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #17 Posted yesterday at 12:52 AM 13 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Most Kohler K181 carb kits are the same. They should come with a new gasket seal. Of course at that point I would go ahead and remove and clean the carb components. Plently of videos on YouTube for that. @ebinmaine beat me to it. And yeah, I'm talking about the carb bowl. Thank you very much for the info. And everyone else for all the prompt replies Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #18 Posted yesterday at 01:51 AM (edited) So the shipping is expected to take a week for the fuel shutoff valve I ordered from one of the companies several of you recommended.. is there a temporary fix I can potentially use or find at a hardware store, some kind of bypass to see if the new filer and hoses clean would fix my starting and running issue and to get my tractor back inside under cover? This is the Part I ordered and am looking for the temporary bypass to work around. Edited yesterday at 01:53 AM by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #19 Posted yesterday at 08:43 AM 6 hours ago, FLtractor said: fix my starting and running issue and to get my tractor back inside under cover? Not being familiar with your yard layout... Is there a way to push pull tug roll the tractor under cover? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,787 #20 Posted yesterday at 10:10 AM (edited) 10 hours ago, FLtractor said: If I do accidentally destroy seal or it breaks crubbles from being so old .. is aircraft spruce best place for replacement? This is where I put my fuel pump on the 856.It calls for a low placement. Just start fresh and change every thing -lines -filters-carb rebuild.Good luck and hope it turns out well. Edited yesterday at 10:12 AM by Retired Wrencher 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,787 #21 Posted yesterday at 10:14 AM 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Not being familiar with your yard layout... Is there a way to push pull tug roll the tractor under cover? That definitely is important, Eric. I agree with that 100%. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,272 #22 Posted yesterday at 12:40 PM @FLtractor glairing to me is the REPITITION OF A PROBLEM , from empty fuel tank , possible degradation of existing fuel lines . personally never leave an empty tank , all my fuel lines replaced , STA BIL fuel storage additive added with any fuel , all my fuel filters are clean / clear . this entire issue is practically showing you the way ! just the way I see it , and eliminate it . @Retired Wrencher gettin after it , also have my electric fuel pumps mounted up front , with vertical fuel check valves , just before carb , you are looking at standing fuel to carb set up . always instant starts , any and all related carb / choke linkage , cabling moves with total ease . like a roller stool to move around and look at problem areas , plan a solid change and elimination of repetitive issue . looks pretty basic to me . also like to run in an engine on a gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel . glairing to me , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #23 Posted yesterday at 12:44 PM 2 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said: This is where I put my fuel pump on the 856.It calls for a low placement. Just start fresh and change every thing -lines -filters-carb rebuild.Good luck and hope it turns out well. What is this black piece on the yellow ish tubing for? Do you have a link for that and that fuel pump you have installed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 590 #24 Posted yesterday at 01:21 PM Shut off Valve threads into fuel tank. Go to local hardware and get a "nipple" or better yet a brass hose barb adapter with proper thread (1/8"pipe?) and 1/4" hose barb. Tank will be empty to achieve this. Connect "new" 1/4" fuel line to hose barb with screw clamps(also at hardware store). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FLtractor 54 #25 Posted yesterday at 02:24 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, Kenneth R Cluley said: Shut off Valve threads into fuel tank. Go to local hardware and get a "nipple" or better yet a brass hose barb adapter with proper thread (1/8"pipe?) and 1/4" hose barb. Tank will be empty to achieve this. Connect "new" 1/4" fuel line to hose barb with screw clamps(also at hardware store). I ordered one of the valves I was recommended on here from spruce aircraft but also found this one at a local store gonna go pick it up today.. to get it going sooner and also keep the other valve once it arrives for future replacement. Happen to have a video on carb removal and install on these old wheelhorses? Edited yesterday at 02:24 PM by FLtractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites