8ntruck 7,758 #1 Posted May 6 I'm in the market for a utility trailer. I'm thinking something on the order of 6' by 9', wood deck, short sides, 1200 pound capacity. Ramps or tailgate? I anticipate that it will be used mostly on our property in Ky. as a wood, and building supply hauler. There will also be highway trips hauling miscellaneous cargo - and the occasional Wheel Horse. Any comments or advice? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,317 #2 Posted May 6 My advice on trailers is the same for building a garage or shed. Give careful serious slow thought to what you think you really need. And go bigger. If ya want Two Wheelhorses >> SIDE BY SIDE << you'll need more width. I believe @Sparky's trailer is 6 1/2 ft. Also. Very important. Check your local laws to see if the weight size gvw or whatever else is a determining factor in your taxes or registration fees. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,346 #3 Posted May 6 I have a 6 1/2 x 12 with 3500# capacity that is a very handy trailer. Light & easy to tow yet heavy enough to haul 4 's, a UTV or a pile of lawn refuse. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beap52 1,385 #4 Posted May 6 I have a trailer with tilt bed. Handy for loading mowers and host of other stuff. Plus the grandkids like to run back and forth as if it was a teeter totter. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,105 #5 Posted May 6 If your planning to haul full size tractors such as C series a 6’6”x12‘ is the way to go. Will hold 4 machines nicely. This is mine from last week loaded for a local show. The 520-8 and 308-8 are full size, there is also an 857 and a B-80 on the trailer. 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,689 #6 Posted May 6 Gotta go 6 1/2. My trailer is 6' X 10' I like the skinny 6-12 tires on most of my tractors. So I could fit 3 on it. A short frame (857) with the skinnies on the front sideways then my 953 and a 1267 ( with skinnies) next to it. Tight fit. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,709 #7 Posted May 6 11 hours ago, 8ntruck said: Ramps or tailgate? A ramp gate adds wind resistance reducing fuel mileage but is so much better for loading and unloading that it is the way to go. Go ahead and buy the biggest trailer you can afford and have room to park, otherwise you will wish you had later on. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,291 #8 Posted May 6 Mine is 5x8 with drop down ramp. Originally bought for motorcycles... Really only good for one tractor... 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 66,520 #9 Posted May 6 11 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Mine is 5x8 with drop down ramp. Originally bought for motorcycles... Really only good for one REALLY NICE tractor... 1 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 66,520 #10 Posted May 6 I realize that this is not for everyone, but I have as much into this trailer with brand new tires, as a TSC 5x8 deluxe model costs. I’m not saying everyone needs this, but used with some TLC may bring a decent value vs cost. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,941 #11 Posted May 6 (edited) Similar to @SylvanLakeWH, mine is 5x8, unbraked with board sides but no ramp. Tare is ~300 lbs and rated for 1,990 gross. It can fit one round hood sideways at the front (ramped on from the side) plus one long frame (ramped on straight at the rear). I estimate that’s probably 1,100 or 1,200 lbs. I use a set of 1,000 lb. capacity folding aluminum ramps carried either on the trailer or in the tow vehicle. Brakes and your tow vehicle’s capacities (and licensing/insurance costs) are very relevant. My tow vehicle’s limit is 1,650 lbs (gross) for an unbraked trailer and up to 3,500 with brakes. My electrical connection, which includes optional hardware and software from the manufacturer to integrate with the car’s computer, includes both brake and power circuits. I usually recommend getting these parts of the tow package directly from your vehicle's manufacturer since the days of simply splicing into a brake or marker light wire to supply a trailer connection are pretty much gone. In my case, the vehicle’s computer recognizes that it has a trailer and adjusts a number of computer-driven features for safety and easier driving. Here in NY, trailers under 2,000 gross are a LOT cheaper to register and typically do not require inspections. (I stand envious of states that do not require small trailer registrations.) Edited May 6 by Handy Don 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,626 #12 Posted May 6 Have 8x10 snowmobile trailer that I bought new in 2007. Just finally had to re-deck it last Sunday. Original floor lasted since new despite trailer always sitting out. I like cause it's really lightweight. Also have 5x10 utility trailer I bought new at county fair 20yrs ago for $895. Gotten a lot of use outta it. Last summer I went thru it- stripped & painted, new lights/wiring, new hardware, new hubs. Considered replacing trailer but comparable new ones are almost $3k & definitely aren't built as good. Decided to put some $$ in it & get another 20yrs outta it. Fortunately in Ohio is pretty inexpensive to register a trailer. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CCW 1,376 #13 Posted May 6 Mine is 4.5 x 8.5 and does everything I need. Sometimes I need to take the 3-12-8 somewhere but not often. It's 1500 lb capacity is much higher than thing I haul. Don't forget the towing capacity of your vehicle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 1,162 #14 Posted May 6 If you don't mind doing a little work, there are lots of cheap or free.old pop up campers out there that make a great wide trailer base. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,684 #15 Posted May 7 6 x 10 here but yeah 6.5 x 12 much better. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,758 #16 Posted May 20 I picked one up today. A 5 1/2' by 9' wood deck, mesh ramp model. It has a rather interesting feature of fold down side rails. This will make loading from the side much easier. I've already an idea to put a hinge in the ramp to cut the frontal area pretty much in half. Going to have to add a winch and maybe a storage box of some sort. A spare won't be a bad idea, eirher. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,709 #17 Posted May 20 4 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: It has a rather interesting feature of fold down side rails. You know the rules, no pictures it doesn't exist. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,758 #18 Posted May 20 Just now, 953 nut said: You know the rules, no pictures it doesn't exist. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Blah. Blah. Blah. It is cold and raining right now. I'll probably melt if I go out in it to take pictures. You are just going to have to wait. SO THERE! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,317 #19 Posted May 20 24 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: A 5 1/2' by 9' wood deck, mesh ramp model. It has a rather interesting feature of fold down side rails. That'll hold two C Series just fine! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,758 #20 Posted May 29 Here it is, with its first load. You happy with this @953 nut? That tailgate eats up about 4mpg with the trailer empty. More than I expected for a low utility trailer that weighs somewhere between 800 and 900 lbs. Interestingly, put 600 pounds of tractor on it and you get about 1mpg better than empty. I'm thinking the gain comes from the turbulence caused by the tractor reducing drag for the tailgate. Kind of like the wat dimples on a golf ball work. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,291 #21 Posted May 29 7 hours ago, 8ntruck said: That tailgate eats up about 4mpg with the trailer empty. I typically take the tailgate off and put it in the trailer when driving empty... makes a difference... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,033 #22 Posted May 29 8 hours ago, 8ntruck said: That tailgate eats up about 4mpg with the trailer empty. More than I expected for a low utility trailer that weighs somewhere between 800 and 900 lbs. Interestingly, put 600 pounds of tractor on it and you get about 1mpg better than empty. Will it fold down inside and lay on the bed? I'm considering removing mine and just using ramps to load and unload. Not like I'm a landscaper using the ramp 10 times a day. Ramps can be held with a bolt or 2 and wing nuts on the inside of the side rails. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,288 #23 Posted May 29 My trailer is a single axle 6 x 12. It holds 4 horses comfortably. However, without brakes it was difficult to stop safely at times. So I installed brakes and that made all the difference in the world. As a side note, Pennsylvania DOT has rules for utility trailer concerning brakes. You might want to look it up if you are planning a trip to the Big Show. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,709 #24 Posted May 29 4 minutes ago, rmaynard said: Pennsylvania DOT has rules for utility trailer concerning brakes. If the total weight of the trailer and load is under 3,000 pounds you are OK. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,394 #25 Posted May 29 10x6 single axle, no brakes. Full width fold down expanded metal ramp. Home made and heavy duty built. Holds one tractor comfortably. Maybe two if I could spin them sideways. Not certain about the gross weight. I am going to try to slide in and out of Pa. unnoticed… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites