nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #1 Posted May 2 A while back I picked up a 42” RD deck, but unfortunately it was noisy, so noisy I was afraid of using it so it sat outdoors for a while. Well I decided that it was time for a refresh. I stripped the deck down, gave it a de-rust with a stiff wire brush, used rustoleum for rusty metal primer and gave the shell an update, I ain’t gonna win any painting awards! Then refreshed the spindles with new bearings, found 2 that were bad, but replaced them all. Have to give the shell another coat, finish cleaning up and painting all the small parts, let the paint cure then put it all back together again, then put it to use! 4 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #2 Posted May 2 I have new gauge wheels and anti-scalp on order in addition to a new idler pulley for the deck. Also going to refresh the bearings on the mule drive, I understand they are the same as the spindle bearings, just have to figure out how to replace them. Oh, and can’t forget a fresh set of decals from Terry https://redoyourhorse.com 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,104 #3 Posted May 2 7 hours ago, nylyon said: found 2 that were bad, but replaced them all. Way to go. Do it once, do it right. OR, do it over..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 65,064 #4 Posted May 2 7 hours ago, nylyon said: I have new gauge wheels and anti-scalp on order in addition to a new idler pulley for the deck. Also going to refresh the bearings on the mule drive, I understand they are the same as the spindle bearings, just have to figure out how to replace them. Oh, and can’t forget a fresh set of decals from Terry https://redoyourhorse.com you can drill out the spot welds, then replace the welds with small screws and lock nuts. The way the pulley is stamped, the bearings will help locate the two halves, but you may want to drill an additional locator hole so you can orient the pieces the same way. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,844 #5 Posted May 2 great job -- looks good --- good list of the items you have rehabbed -- i also suggest you check the wear in the deck torsion bar --- likely the "slot" is worn and the bar should be replaced. After all the work i suggest you use new bolts/hardware as well -- all that pretty new paint will look much better with new shiny bolts - if not new then at minimum if bolts are in good shape then use wire wheel etc to "polish" them - look forward to the final photos - -here are a couple photos my deck rehabs - two different 37 sd's, couple of 42s, 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,139 #6 Posted May 2 @nylyon JUST CURIOUS did you RE - GREASE THOSE SPINDLE BEARINGS ? , done a number of decks , the commonality of unknown lubrication grade / type is assured to most dominate the application , mainly ceiling fans , that never heat up or encounter lateral side loading , violent rpm changes . think your finish work is spot on , never had a cleaned out and re greased bearing get noisy or load fail , every related drive bearing , including mule drive , has a polyurea , rated 550 flash point rated green grease , the combined spin up ease is ridiculous , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #7 Posted May 2 Yes, I removed the blue grease they had in there and hand packed with Lucas Red and Tacky, which is what I use for all my bearings and grease needs. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 8,012 #8 Posted May 2 Mule drive bearings are 3/4 bore. These are the ones I used 6203-12-2RS C3 3/4" Bore Premium Sealed Ball Bearing (C3 is a electric motor tolerance spec.) Your spindels look metric. Some mule drive pulleys are cast and the snap ring holds in the bearing. 11 hours ago, Pullstart said: you can drill out the spot welds, then replace the welds with small screws and lock nuts I am not that patient. I cut slots press out the bearing and install a new one and bend over the tabs. I have done a dozen with no issues. As far as re-greasing bearings, I find it not necessary, on the new ones, the grease they use is pretty good especially on the C3 grade. I have one xi deck with all sealed spindle bearings pushing 300 hours of hard work. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #9 Posted May 3 Waiting on a new idler pulley, slide bar bushings and spring and blade spindle nuts but all done! And it’s going to rain for the next couple days so all covered up. Going to let the paint finish curing, it’s still very soft so I I don’t want to scrape it all away. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,844 #10 Posted May 4 can't tell from photos if you did so -- but i also paint with black paint the black square rubber "cushions" on top of lift carriage assembly -------------- what treatment did you give the underneath? - Black or red paint - or "undercoating" or bed sealer etc???????? Deck looks terrific - - well done ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #11 Posted May 4 The underside was wire brushed then a couple coats of Rustoleum primer for rusty surfaces followed by a couple coats Tractor and implement International Harvester Red paint. I also used the underside as a backdrop to paint the other parts, so it got all the overspray too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #12 Posted May 9 Blades are on with new hardware, thin washer, thick washer and the nut all new. Still waiting on the idler shaft bushings, new tension spring and PTO to deck belt then it will be ready to go: 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #13 Posted May 10 Decided to replace the aftermarket (and cheap) anti-scalp rollers with the more modern Toro rollers, they fit much better than the aftermarket. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #14 Posted May 10 And last for today, give it a little color with @Vinylguy decals 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,844 #15 Posted May 10 looks terrific - - refresh/rehab of decks makes great sense -- gives another couple decades of quality use -- here's another suggestion if you plan to use the rear discharge with a hydro -- if you scan earlier in this thread you will see the rear deflector i added to Rear Discharge deck -- i originally got the idea here on RSq - - it helps prevent the hydro fins on tranny from getting all those sticky grass blades on fins which of course can inhibit the air circulation cooling of the fins -- also keeps the inside of tires and rims etc from getting all green -- Your choice, but just a suggestion -- i use the base molding vinyl strips ( Home Depot ) -- and short carriage bolts that work perfectly - - Oh yeah - I also often add the new stickers to give a rehabbed deck a bit more good look pop !!!! ENJOY !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #16 Posted May 10 This deck will go on a 416-8, but my 416-H has a rear discharge as well and I hear what you are saying about the trans fins. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,619 #17 Posted May 12 The rest of the parts came this morning, and I quickly installed them. Put the deck under the 416-8, and set it up about ¼” nose down. This deck is now SUPER quiet and smooth, can barely tell it’s spinning. Was able to cut the grass across the street (I just put down herbicide on mine) and it’s a beautiful cut. It took a lot of time and effort, but it’s all worth it in the end! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites