Lawn ranger restoration

[p38js 428]

I have always wanted a Lawn Ranger and thanks to Handy Don and Pullstart I now have a Lawn Ranger.  I think this will eventually get a full restoration, but in the mean time changing the muffler out to the spin on type to get the exhaust out from under the hood.  Changing the oil and transmission oil. Cleaning an d rebuilding the carb. Installing new used tie rod ends (you just gotta love going down a hill and the tie rod ends pop off) new fuel line and filter, and install a battery and new wiring. This little tractor has been well taken care of over the years,  she just needs to be cleaned up and loved on and then put to work. 

[kpinnc 14,571]

Looks like a solid candidate for restoration! 

 

If that Tecchy gives any trouble, a K181 Kohler will fit nicely. 

Edited April 10 by kpinnc

[squonk 43,714]

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Looks like a solid candidate for restoration! 

 

If that Tecchy gives any trouble,

[ebinmaine 72,382]

I like that bolt on thread adapter for the muffler. Something you made?

[Handy Don 13,972]

5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I like that bolt on thread adapter for the muffler. Something you made?

That’s a standard Tecumseh part for many of the smaller engines. 

[p38js 428]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I like that bolt on thread adapter for the muffler. Something you made?

 

It is made by Tecumseh @Handy Don told me about it when I when I got the tractor from him.  It took me awhile to find it, and once found one, like three more all of a sudden appeared 

[p38js 428]

8 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Looks like a solid candidate for restoration! 

 

@kpinnc as much as I like the Kohlers I’m going to try and keep the little tecky going.  If I remember correctly from @Handy Don the original engine has already been swapped out I believe it should have a H60 and this is a HH60, I’m not 100% sure what the differences are but for starters the exhaust needs the bolt on adapter.  So I’m sure there are more surprises to come in trying to find parts

[kpinnc 14,571]

2 hours ago, p38js said:

it should have a H60 and this is a HH60, I’m not 100% sure what the differences are

 

Wouldn't the HH version be a cast iron block versus the H being aluminum?

 

Either way the carburetor tends to be the trouble area on Tecchy engines. I used a small block Kohler carb on my original Ranger Tecchy engine for a while. It worked very well. 

[ebinmaine 72,382]

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Wouldn't the HH version be a cast iron block versus the H being aluminum?

 

Correct. 

 

 

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Either way the carburetor tends to be the trouble area on Tecchy engines.

 

 

Also correct.  

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I used a small block Kohler carb on my original Ranger Tecchy engine for a while. It worked very well. 

 

[ebinmaine 72,382]

6 hours ago, p38js said:

It is made by Tecumseh @Handy Don told me about it when I when I got the tractor from him.  It took me awhile to find it, and once found one, like three more all of a sudden appeared 

 

 

If you have a spare one and wanna sell it I'd be interested.   

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,226]

With the three spoke steering wheel it looks to be a 1968 Model.   

[p38js 428]

@ebinmaine there are a few listed on eBay at the moment 

[p38js 428]

Another piece of the puzzle showed up yesterday, the exhaust bracket.  

[ebinmaine 72,382]

16 minutes ago, p38js said:

Another piece of the puzzle showed up yesterday, the exhaust bracket.  

 

 

 

Where can I find one of those?

[pfrederi 18,633]

I like to have the exhaust down and to the front not blowing back in my face

 

 

[p38js 428]

@pfrederi that is a good idea, is that muffler quieter than this one.  When I’m at the show my tractors all sound like I’m running cherry bombs and all the other tractors are nice and quiet.  Maybe it’s just my imagination 

[pfrederi 18,633]

Maybe quieter because it sends the noise out front.

[Handy Don 13,972]

22 hours ago, p38js said:

When I’m at the show my tractors all sound like I’m running cherry bombs and all the other tractors are nice and quiet.  Maybe it’s just my imagination 

I’ve had the same experience! At low RPM, the K181 just sorta chugs but spool it up and it’s kinda loud. I’ve been considering one of the Gravely style units. It’s on the list 😁. 

[p38js 428]

Dear Mr.Tecumseh engineer does this really need to be this complicated, spacer 2 different gaskets and screws going 2 different directions 

[ebinmaine 72,382]

3 hours ago, p38js said:

Dear Mr.Tecumseh engineer does this really need to be this complicated

 

 

IMHO... that's exactly the downfall of the old school Tecumseh engine. 

[p38js 428]

Today I started to repair the wiring on the ranger. And I came across this there are two of them and they fit into a fuse holder on the side of the engine.  I have been through all the manuals I can get my hands on and they are not mentioned anywhere.  They ohm out like a diode. I’m not sure which way they are to be put in if they are diodes?  They both measure .495 to .504 ohms.  Any ways I put them back the way I found them,  installed a new battery and repaired wiring starts right up. I have a feeling that they have something to do with charging the battery,  Since I have it in a small garage and not good air flow I did not run it long enough to see if the battery is charging.  Any help on what these are and where to get them if these are bad would be greatly appreciated.

[ebinmaine 72,382]

You're correct. They're a diode and they're in the charging circuit. 

 

@Handy Don any thoughts? 

[Handy Don 13,972]

15 hours ago, p38js said:

Today I started to repair the wiring on the ranger. And I came across this there are two of them and they fit into a fuse holder on the side of the engine.  I have been through all the manuals I can get my hands on and they are not mentioned anywhere.  They ohm out like a diode. I’m not sure which way they are to be put in if they are diodes?  

Yep, diodes. I’m glad they are both working because they are not easy to get in that form factor anymore! Folks have resorted to refurbishing them by replacing the diode inside!

 

The two diodes together form a rectifier bridge that converts the alternating current from the stator under the flywheel into direct current for charging the battery. If memory serves, it generates about 2 amps at 13.5 volts when the engine is at 3,000 rpm (output is related to the internal wiring and the engine speed). 

 

I’ve attached the Tecumseh manual for the 3-11 hp L-heads. I’m pretty sure it shows what you’ve got. Normally, there is a clear plastic cover over the assembly. 

Engine Tecumseh 3hp to 11hp L-Head SM #692509.pdf

[p38js 428]

@Handy Don thank you just read up on the charging system the diodes check out and I’m glad I didn’t change any of the wires going to the diodes since wire size matters greatly in this system.  I replaced the negative and positive battery cables and cleaned all connections.  And I do have the plastic cover for the diodes I had it off for the picture.