Brockport Bill 1,910 #1 Posted July 18, 2024 Pete and others on here advocate an "oil treatment" for underneath the mower decks for preservation purposes - i am currently doing a deck rehab -- i have typically cleaned rust off to bare metal by either having deck sand blasted... or by using 90 degree grinder disc to "sand" off rust -- then primed and painted. However, i recently got a deck that was in solid condition - no rust through holes, no fractures, or damage, with just modest rust underneath -- so i am trying the oil sun baking treatment to rehab the bottom of deck -- Pete has previously suggested baking in sun for "absorbtion" into metal . I was wondering others experience with this strategy but also... specifically.... how long in the sun to bake the oil -- and is one treatment adequate or multiple? thanks 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,196 #2 Posted July 18, 2024 @Brockport Bill thanks for the shout , do a 2 step treatment , ist is a lighter chain/ cable spray , 3/4 hours in direct sun , deck is hot , to touch , then an over spray with open gear spray , that will really tack up / start to seal , dry to touch . your very good base cleaning is vital , for a baked on finish . also the bare metal , will hang on to heavier oil better . as a dried seal coating , I also do my spindles and blades , in the fall , maybe a light touch up , mine is usually intact , no damage . that 2 step lube finish is on my decks for years , zero rust / rot , regularly mirror look under decks . when decks are propped up to wall in fall , touch up blades , and open gear spray . that solid deck you got , was the perfect specimen to do this on , been doing this for years , it stands up , probably the most important stage , is stop the , GRUNGE CYCLE , that will verify / show the difference . this works , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 761 #3 Posted July 18, 2024 Started doing my 42"sd three years ago. I use old oil from my oil changes. I do scrape any stuck on grass and stuff. I brush the oil on and then if puddling I spread it out. I let it sit out for at least 6-8 hours then I put on a little more. Greasy Pete has some very good ways of preventing rust and deteriation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-85 747 #4 Posted July 19, 2024 Most of my small fleet is 'tired iron' and the mower decks are mostly bare metal underneath, so I've done this oil treatment in the fall for years. I've used a mix of used oil and 140w gear oil and this has stabilized the bare metal. I have also oil undercoated our vehicles for years and that has really helped! For example, we kept our '88 Chevy K1500 for 30 years and it looked almost like it did when we bought it when we sold it! C-85 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,746 #5 Posted July 19, 2024 My thought is that steel doesn't absorb oil, how would they keep it in the can? Anything that I ever applied to the underside of a mower deck never survived one mowing, applying oil is useful for storage purposes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,899 #6 Posted July 19, 2024 2 hours ago, lynnmor said: My thought is that steel doesn't absorb oil, how would they keep it in the can? Anything that I ever applied to the underside of a mower deck never survived one mowing, applying oil is useful for storage purposes. Exactly. I take the lazier approach. There're spots under the deck that accumulate grass each time you mow. Same spots, every time. The more moisture in the grass, the more clumping. Sure, waiting until the grass dries helps but there is still moisture in the 'dry' grass. I mow when it needs it and is as convenient as possible regardless of the moisture level. After every mowing I knock off the clumped grass. No worries about 'cleaning' it. Just the clumps that hold the moisture against the steel. It just takes a couple minutes and apparently it must work. The deck on this 2005 is a 48" deck I purchased new in the late 70's. no rust at all after close to 50 years of heavy use. There's a lot of talk about the 'miracle' coatings to protect the deck. DON'T DO IT! One of the many coatings is POR15. At one time I liked the idea of coating a deck. I meticulously prepared and coated a 42" deck with it about 9 years ago. Folks, reside yourself to the fact that there are no miracle coatings that are one and done especially when it comes to the violence under a mower deck. Period. As the coating ages it WILL create a bigger problem. I'm dealing with that now. Never again will I let any coating near the underside of my decks. I do give the decks a quick light coat of whatever oil I have handy in the fall when I put them to bed for the winter but that's it. I guess it just makes me feel better not leaving the bare metal exposed all winter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,746 #7 Posted July 19, 2024 59 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I do give the decks a quick light coat of whatever oil I have handy in the fall when I put them to bed for the winter but that's it. I guess it just makes me feel better not leaving the bare metal exposed all winter. Totally agree with your post, the only difference is that I use Fluid Film for long term storage since it won't drip after it sets up and it penetrates around bolts. Now about that jack, I had one that wasn't up to lifting my 520's, the bottom mount for the hydraulic cylinder cracked and bent to the ground, be careful with the thing. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,196 #8 Posted July 19, 2024 @C-85 many years ago , started using , LUBRIPLATE , CHAIN / CABLE SPRAY , as initial base lubricant , then after tacking up , semi drying , would over coat with , lubriplate , open gear spray , my 3 decks are stained black underside , none of it wears off . but today , pricing is nuts , similar NAPA , MACS open gear and also chain / cable spray , is about 8-9 $ , a can , the pictures of my deck underside , is how they always look , check them out for anything , correct . also give them a touch up at season end , and wall eye bolt spring held in place , bottom side out , for status check . BTW , every seam , joint , related underside of cars , joint oil slick in every area , doors , trunk , hood . zero rust / rot . have my C-85 , 42 years , no rust, rot , regularly gets a lubrication based , go over , paint buffs out clean / deep . go oily , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,899 #9 Posted July 19, 2024 10 hours ago, lynnmor said: Totally agree with your post, the only difference is that I use Fluid Film for long term storage since it won't drip after it sets up and it penetrates around bolts. Now about that jack, I had one that wasn't up to lifting my 520's, the bottom mount for the hydraulic cylinder cracked and bent to the ground, be careful with the thing. I may try that Fluid Film. Never used it. I do keep tabs on the lift as well as making sure the two safety pins are engaged Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,196 #10 Posted July 19, 2024 @Racinbob fluid film was never made for direct outside contact , it military based closed area rust preventative . never had any of my deck coatings wear off , split , crack . will take some pictures of decks in the fall . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,899 #11 Posted July 20, 2024 I only oil spray my decks once a year. They get pressure washed, sprayed with whatever lube I have on hand. Usually something I wanted to try and didn't really care for. Then put up for winter storage. It's worked perfectly for nearly 5 decades now so I doubt doing more would work any better. Besides, I'm too lazy to put any more effort in to it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,196 #12 Posted July 20, 2024 @Racinbob another vital detail in cutting is DECK DISCHARGE , have always cut at highest setting , and regularly change up cutting pattern , while I don't agree with pressure washing , I do agree with the winter storage lubrication soak in . i,m over 40 years on my stuff , so its a stage that has evolved for me . rarely let anything go with out a change repair , personally the issue has a glairing track to , improve / eliminate it . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites