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Keaton

starter/genarator restoration

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Keaton

i am restoring my wheel horse 856 and i was wondering what you guys do to restore/ repaint the starter/genarator. there is a local genarator/altornator shop, i am going to stop there tommow night but i was wondering what you guys did to restore it, and also what do you do to restore the block, sandblast it, clean it or what you would do.

edit: and by the block i mean the block with the eternals all in it but like the flywheel, sheet metal and stuff like that just down to the block with everything in it.

Edited by Keaton
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Achto

Here is a video from "I Save Tractors" on rebuilding a starter/gen.

 

He also sells rebuild kits.

https://isavetractors.com/electrical/starter-generator-parts/

 

3 hours ago, Keaton said:

what do you do to restore the block, sandblast it, clean it or what you would do.

 

I would not recommend sand blasting an assembled engine. In fact I would STRONGLY advise against it. Basting sand goes every where, if any gets inside the engine it will wreck the engine in short order. I will only sand blast a bare block, then it gets washed several times before assembly.

 

If you are not fully disassembling the engine then I suggest scrubbing it down with brake cleaner and a steel brush several times to clean it up before painting. A final rinse with brake clean followed by a good drying with a blow gun. Make sure that it is as clean as you can get it, paint will not stick to an oily surface.

Edited by Achto
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Keaton

@Achto i will watch that video and i will do that for the block, good thing i have a bunch of break clean. thank you-keaton

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WHX??

Strip the S/G down... field coils do not have to come out unless faulty. Do not put the body or armature in a parts washer. Solvent can deteriorate the insulation. Use brake cleaner only and you will need a full can. Compressed air will also be your best friend. 

Wear mechanics gloves ... your hands will be black otherwise and it doesn't wash off. 

You can take it to a pro shop and most have a machine to bench test them. Get their charges first. Last one I took to a pro shop it was well over 200 clams but needed a new armature and field coils. They can also check out the regulator if needed. 

Use your shout out you run into problems @Achto and I have done quite a few of them. 

I saves vid is good but doesn't get into things like under cutting mica & testing coils and such. 

Edited by WHX??
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ebinmaine

The boys above have got you fixed up right. 

 

To clean an engine block here we do a few different things.  

Brake clean. YES.  

 

I buy it by the case of 12. It's a LOT less expensive that way. 

 

We also use cleaners to degrease like Incredible Pink. Or whatever other "color cleaner" you prefer. Purple. Simple Green. Etc.....

 

We really like using the pressure washer with HOT water. 

That's excellent for degreasing.  

 

LOTS of wire brushing.  

 

Just before paint Trina does a thorough wipe down with acetone.  

 

 

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953 nut
13 hours ago, Achto said:

I suggest scrubbing it down with brake cleaner

Brake cleaner is great but you need to keep it away from your crankshaft seal and any insulated wires. If it is not cleaned up promptly the rubber/plastic/neoprene parts can be damaged.

As @ebinmaine suggested I have had good results with simple green or purple power etc. followed up with a good windex rince. Been using it ever since I watched "My Big Fat Greek Wedding".

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=10155351880369701

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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pfrederi
9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

The boys above have got you fixed up right. 

 

To clean an engine block here we do a few different things.  

Brake clean. YES.  

 

I buy it by the case of 12. It's a LOT less expensive that way. 

 

We also use cleaners to degrease like Incredible Pink. Or whatever other "color cleaner" you prefer. Purple. Simple Green. Etc.....

 

We really like using the pressure washer with HOT water. 

That's excellent for degreasing.  

 

LOTS of wire brushing.  

 

Just before paint Trina does a thorough wipe down with acetone.  

 

 

 

 

I have three of these units they are excellent quality.  Oldest is over 20 year old  One for BrakeClean one for WD-40  one for paint thinner 

 

Gallon of brake clean at auto parts store isn't bad.

 

 

sprayer.JPG

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squonk

You can use CRC Electronic cleaner around the seals and rubber parts. It doesn't damage plastic or rubber. 

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Keaton

@pfrederi my dad has thoes break clean things at his automotive shop and he has a 55 gallon drum of break kleen and a charger system for it 

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Keaton

i went to the genarator place, it starts fine but it does not charge, the guy said that it would not hurt it to sandblast the starter/genatator but tape off around the bearing on the front of the starter/genatator after you take the pulley off. 

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