Replacement starter

[brewster 8]

I have a Wheelhorse Classic Toro 312-8 Kohler Magnum 12 Model M125 Spec. No 471527 Serial No. 2005211023. And I love it.

 

But now I need to replace the starter. Any suggestions? Only OEM? Or are there acceptable alternatives? Thanks

[ri702bill 7,341]

Brewster - Welcome!!

The OE starter can be repaired / refurbished - unless the magnets are cracked or broken. Not that hard to do.

Do your homework before you consider an aftermarket part. Read the reviews - lots of them. Seems that there may be a "fitment" issue at times that could require some creative alterations to get it to work.

[Ed Kennell 35,822]

15 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Seems that there may be a "fitment" issue at times

Yes, I had one I had to drill out the end cap holes and use the mounting bolts from the old starter.

 

I have several from DB Electrical with no issues.

[953 nut 51,762]

59 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

The OE starter can be repaired / refurbished

Many of the replacement starters on the market aren't built to last. I would suggest contacting I Save Old Tractors or DB Electric and stay away from 

[Horse Newbie 6,872]

2 hours ago, brewster said:

are there acceptable alternatives

No !

Rebuild the OE… I bought an aftermarket for a Cub … regret it …

Edited October 22, 2023 by Horse Newbie

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,058]

I ended up getting one from Partstree .  Didn't like the ones from the jungle site (unknown brand and offshore builder) or flea  bay  and DB Electric did not have starters for Magnum series. I don't think "I Save old tractors " did not have either. Could not find anyone in my area to rebuild my old one. Don't scream when you see the price! Mine was a Magnum 10. I had to remove the oil filler tube to remove the old and install the new one. 

 

[Ed Kennell 35,822]

16 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

I had to remove the oil filler tube to remove the old and install the new one. 

Yep, same on the Mag 12.

 

[ebinmaine 63,203]

Another vote for rebuild the original.  

 

I'm only an hour from you. 

 

Do you have pics of the old one?

Be glad to help if I can.  

 

 

[brewster 8]

Thanks for all the posts. Per the request, here are pix of my old ‘n dead starter. The price I was told for a new OEM starter was about $350. Is that market? Thanks again   

[953 nut 51,762]

Have you used jumper cables from a known good battery directly to the engine block and the terminal shown in the photo? I see some discoloration on the oil fill tube and wonder if the cable connection may be bad causing heat at that point resulting in a voltage drop.

[squonk 38,947]

26 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Have you used jumper cables from a known good battery directly to the engine block and the terminal shown in the photo? I see some discoloration on the oil fill tube and wonder if the cable connection may be bad causing heat at that point resulting in a voltage drop.

 

Current could even be jumping to the fill tube. That is a terrible design. Should be a boot over that cable at least. 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,058]

@squonk Do you have a source for those boots? I have not been able to find them. My oil fill tube has the same discoloration. @brewster  The old starters have a threaded hole for the small bracket to attach the starter to the base and probably provide a ground to the starter, new starters only have a hole that is not threaded. Just an FYI

[Ed Kennell 35,822]

This is a $49 starter I installed 2 years ago.    It may have been the one I needed to drill out the end cap and use my old longer bolts that in addition to holding the starter assembly together, also thread into the mounting block.      It has been working fine with instant starts for two years.    Do your starters and batteries a favor....add a primer bulb for instant starts.

 

Here is my solution to the insulation of the positive lug on the starter.         Slide a rubber 1" hose over the oil fill pipe.         Don't damage the fill pipe O ring.

 

[Ed Kennell 35,822]

9 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

new starters only have a hole that is not threaded.

Correct Jim.    I tapped the hole and used a long bolt with a nut to bolt the bracket to the starter.     And yes you have to remove the oil fill pipe to access the one starter bolt.

[squonk 38,947]

28 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@squonk Do you have a source for those boots? I have not been able to find them. My oil fill tube has the same discoloration.

Amazon. Local Marina's ect.  Search battery terminal boot.

 

Edited October 22, 2023 by squonk

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,058]

@Ed Kennell Great idea ! @squonk I tried those and they are tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Big.

[squonk 38,947]

2 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@Ed Kennell Great idea ! @squonk I tried those and they are tooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Big.

They got more styles then just those. 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,058]

The game continues  as Norm would say "Messing with @squonk "  mate.

[hotajax 212]

I have an address for a starter rebuilder expert.  He  is out in the midwest.  He refurbished a Horse starter, and didn't charge much.  If you can hang on for a couple of days  til I find the box the starter came in, I'll let you know soon.  It works good, now.  Been using it for about 4 yrs.  And you know it's going to fit right if you have your OEM fixed.  

[hotajax 212]

You're in luck  I found the address for the starter rebuilder I used.

 

Martin Rebuilding.

W5141 Buttercup Dr.

Wautoma, Wisconsin  54982

 

Phone (920) 566-2723

 

Does good work.  Fast turn around time in his shop, easy guy to deal with.  If you pay by check, he won't ship the starter back until the check clears.  I certainly understand that. 

Edited October 22, 2023 by hotajax

[OoPEZoO 368]

Crap.....I'm in the same boat.  The starter on my 314-8 (K321 motor) has been a little "sticky" ever since I bought it almost 20yrs ago.  Anytime it acted up, I could just give it quick smack and it would then start the tractor.  I had the flywheel shroud off today and decided it was a good time to pull the starter and take a closer look.  Damn it.....the magnets are trashed.  Everything else looks to be in good shape.  What a bummer. 

 

Edited October 23, 2023 by OoPEZoO

[squonk 38,947]

The magnets are trash because you hit it.

[OoPEZoO 368]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

The magnets are trash because you hit it.

 

True story.....but at the time, it beat pushing a tractor back to the garage.  I cleaned everything up, removed the broken magnet pieces, lubed up the important parts, and put it back together.  Surprisingly, it still seems to function fine.  I'm going to see if I can milk it for another 20yrs.

[hotajax 212]

4 hours ago, OoPEZoO said:

Crap.....I'm in the same boat.  The starter on my 314-8 (K321 motor) has been a little "sticky" ever since I bought it almost 20yrs ago.  Anytime it acted up, I could just give it quick smack and it would then start the tractor.  I had the flywheel shroud off today and decided it was a good time to pull the starter and take a closer look.  Damn it.....the magnets are trashed.  Everything else looks to be in good shape.  What a bummer. 

 

I'll bet Mr. Martin has magnets for you.  I have the exact same configuration as you 314-8 with a K321S engine. Get on the horn with him first thing in the morning, he'll do you right.

Edited October 23, 2023 by hotajax

[brewster 8]

My grass is greening and my starter still needs work. So, I’m back at it. How do I remove the starter? And, how do I remove the oil fill tube? Thanks for all advice!