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Mike_eash

How can I get more rpms out of my old 10hp Kohler?

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peter lena

 

@ Mike-eash , been using , rislone , zink , in my engines , for running ease / protection . looks like a nice set up you have there . also use super lube , cable lube on my governor shaft ends , assuring a smooth easy swing / response , found the  smallest control setting change , along with free moving related linkage / cabling . personally , would be careful on that hi end speed , without added lubrication protection . have run in a number of engines , with run time gains , changes . use  ROTELLA  30 WT  and added zink , bottle instructions , 2 oz per qt of oil operational running ease is much different . also lay out related  cabling where IT WANTS TO BE , SUPER LUBE , I also add spring pull assist to my choke / throttle cables , super smooth / responsive . just some suggestions , regularly in use , pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mike_eash

Thank you I will keep my eye on it and make sure I don't get any major gains after run time. I haven't used it much as I am still waiting on my rims which are being powder coated. I use pennzoil 10w30 can I put some additive in that? And what is the zink you use? Also how do you attach your springs to the end of your cables? I like that idea. A pic would be great

Edited by Mike_eash
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wallfish

Noticed the pulley grooves on the PTO are painted. Not a big deal for attachments on those but if the drive pulley is painted in the groove it may want to grab all the time or suddenly. If you have any issues clutching it or if it pops wheelies, clean the pulley groove. Just an FYI

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Mike_eash
7 hours ago, wallfish said:

Noticed the pulley grooves on the PTO are painted. Not a big deal for attachments on those but if the drive pulley is painted in the groove it may want to grab all the time or suddenly. If you have any issues clutching it or if it pops wheelies, clean the pulley groove. Just an FYI

Thank you yeah it was something I wasn't sure about painting but I figured it couldn't hurt anything. Didn't think about grabbing 

 

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Mike_eash
21 hours ago, Mike_eash said:

Thank you I will keep my eye on it and make sure I don't get any major gains after run time. I haven't used it much as I am still waiting on my rims which are being powder coated. I use pennzoil 10w30 can I put some additive in that? And what is the zink you use? Also how do you attach your springs to the end of your cables? I like that idea. A pic would be great

@peter lena

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peter lena

@ MIKE eash , springs are mounted to cable lever arms , actually pulling the levers closed , think about it , when ever you use choke / throttle , its assisted with a light spring , cables move very easily , used the perforated stainless , to the rectifier area , also used the ground wire , pictured , as a added lead to the rectifier , for better charging . use ROTELLA 30 WT OIL , look up RISLONE ZINK  , add that to all my oils , directions on bottle , really helps the old engine design . very easy to experiment with the springs , prefer a  soft easy pull , super lube oil in the cables , levers . always trying something , pete   

 

 

 

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Mike_eash
2 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ MIKE eash , springs are mounted to cable lever arms , actually pulling the levers closed , think about it , when ever you use choke / throttle , its assisted with a light spring , cables move very easily , used the perforated stainless , to the rectifier area , also used the ground wire , pictured , as a added lead to the rectifier , for better charging . use ROTELLA 30 WT OIL , look up RISLONE ZINK  , add that to all my oils , directions on bottle , really helps the old engine design . very easy to experiment with the springs , prefer a  soft easy pull , super lube oil in the cables , levers . always trying something , pete   

 

 

 

Thank you I like your idea with those springs

I will try that out

I also like your standing fuel charge idea but I not exactly sure that I have full understanding of how to do that

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peter lena

@ MIKE-eash  , https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Return-Petrol-Aluminium/dp/B085G7JVSM?th=1  fuel check valve , mount it VERTICALLY  just after fuel pump , arrow  facing up . that will hold a fuel charge right there for start , very easy , that zinc will enhance the oil , use a measuring cup , think its 2 QZ , PER QT OF OIL , read bottle . been spot on in my engines . experiment with those springs , you want a , soft pull , just enough to assist . lubricated cable , those old engine designs , while very strong , will not stand up to screaming rpm , that added zinc will show itself , in running ease , have it in 5 engines . related throttle / choke arms/ levers , have other holes in them , attach spring  . I  went to perforated steel , for an easy go to mount point . try a before / after , spring pull effect . super lube cables and all related linkage . also add to governor end shaft points , ensuring free swing , MAKING SENSE ? like doing operational detail , verify as you go . have these and many other , changes on my horses, they work , pete

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Mike_eash
6 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ MIKE-eash  , https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Return-Petrol-Aluminium/dp/B085G7JVSM?th=1  fuel check valve , mount it VERTICALLY  just after fuel pump , arrow  facing up . that will hold a fuel charge right there for start , very easy , that zinc will enhance the oil , use a measuring cup , think its 2 QZ , PER QT OF OIL , read bottle . been spot on in my engines . experiment with those springs , you want a , soft pull , just enough to assist . lubricated cable , those old engine designs , while very strong , will not stand up to screaming rpm , that added zinc will show itself , in running ease , have it in 5 engines . related throttle / choke arms/ levers , have other holes in them , attach spring  . I  went to perforated steel , for an easy go to mount point . try a before / after , spring pull effect . super lube cables and all related linkage . also add to governor end shaft points , ensuring free swing , MAKING SENSE ? like doing operational detail , verify as you go . have these and many other , changes on my horses, they work , pete

Thank you I bought the zinc and will be trying a few things you mentioned 

Thanks I'm always open to new and better ideas

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peter lena

@ MIKE-eash  , when you add that Zink and you are running the engine , I was recovering a used engine , carb work / fuel system etc. notice the operational running ease that was changing in it . got a couple hours on it , and it was quitter , smoke  was all but gone . also notice that my oil levels are solid . try those light pull springs , easy / smooth , spring pull assist  at every change ,  ask away , pete    

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Mike_eash
4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ MIKE-eash  , when you add that Zink and you are running the engine , I was recovering a used engine , carb work / fuel system etc. notice the operational running ease that was changing in it . got a couple hours on it , and it was quitter , smoke  was all but gone . also notice that my oil levels are solid . try those light pull springs , easy / smooth , spring pull assist  at every change ,  ask away , pete    

Been playing around with those springs 

Also added the zinc and ordered some fuel checks

Also noticed the clear line above fuel pump

Is that just to make sure you can see the gas in case of issues you can rule out gas just by looking?

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peter lena

@ MIKE-eash . good eye,  anything I experiment with  / try  , is also an OPPORTUNITY  TO VERIFY FUNCTION , CHANGE, thats how you correct a chronic issue , rarely a 1 and done , once I detailed in the related carb / choke linkage , small needle nose plyers , a slight , bend / twist , super lube , basically eliminated drag , it just kept  getting easier , thats what I wanted . once  verified , did the same to the other engines , they all start the same easy way , what I wanted . other related , quick / easy start , detail , battery tender power line , tye wrapped to choke cable , for quick easy access , first photo , notice the added PTO LEVER

 

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peter lena

@ MIKE EASH  , first photo , end of pto lever , area , notice the added washers / lubricant ? pulls it into place / side of consul , smooth / solid / easy , used a   3/8x24 die nut over original 3/8x 16 , threading , screw on HEIM joint , smooth / easy . also notice 5th the picture down , battery tender plug in , on choke cable , always there , quick / easy . also notice the battery ground cable , to engine corner / frame ? ensures , engine electrical RECTIFIER , function , AMPS / CHARGE RATE. that battery area is a gold mine for improvement , wiring , steering column flange bearing , added electrical  detailing / WIRE WRAP . very glad  you are curious , glad to help , BTW  I  PUT , STA BIL   fuel storage additive in every bit of my fuel , after a cleanout , fresh fuel filters , carb bowl . zero debris in filters , pete 

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Mike_eash

Go

9 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ MIKE EASH  , first photo , end of pto lever , area , notice the added washers / lubricant ? pulls it into place / side of consul , smooth / solid / easy , used a   3/8x24 die nut over original 3/8x 16 , threading , screw on HEIM joint , smooth / easy . also notice 5th the picture down , battery tender plug in , on choke cable , always there , quick / easy . also notice the battery ground cable , to engine corner / frame ? ensures , engine electrical RECTIFIER , function , AMPS / CHARGE RATE. that battery area is a gold mine for improvement , wiring , steering column flange bearing , added electrical  detailing / WIRE WRAP . very glad  you are curious , glad to help , BTW  I  PUT , STA BIL   fuel storage additive in every bit of my fuel , after a cleanout , fresh fuel filters , carb bowl . zero debris in filters , pete 

Good things to know! I always run a couple extra grounds actually I learned that from wiring trailers always run extra ground and I have one on rectifier always!

I got 2 check valves today. Would 2 on same line be better? Or waste of time?

Thanks

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peter lena

@ MIKE EASH ,  one is all you need , that combined with a clear fuel rated hose , makes for a quick fuel status. have one on each  of my  horses .  regularly check over things , so there are no surprises . just got thru cutting , topped off tank , STA -BIL , in gas , dip stick check on trans , full / clean / ok , oil check ok . like Lucas  climbing gear oil , the quiet difference , nice shifting . when replacing shift boot , lightly grease the INSIDE OF IT , allowing it to easily slide on the irregular top of trans , put a TYE  wrap just ABOVE THE SHIFT BOOT  , on the shaft itself , the combo holds it right there , and it will last longer . just giving you some ideas , because you  are responsive to idea exchange . after my fuel cleaning tank to carb , filter, check valve , use Stabil , and no more hose break down , my filters are clean , have no issues with ethanol regular gas, hope to hear about , run time on your engine ,with RISLONE ZINK , the varnish cleaning / protection , hot oil change , like hot coal oil , good talking , pete     

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Mike_eash
On 9/22/2023 at 6:23 PM, peter lena said:

@ MIKE EASH ,  one is all you need , that combined with a clear fuel rated hose , makes for a quick fuel status. have one on each  of my  horses .  regularly check over things , so there are no surprises . just got thru cutting , topped off tank , STA -BIL , in gas , dip stick check on trans , full / clean / ok , oil check ok . like Lucas  climbing gear oil , the quiet difference , nice shifting . when replacing shift boot , lightly grease the INSIDE OF IT , allowing it to easily slide on the irregular top of trans , put a TYE  wrap just ABOVE THE SHIFT BOOT  , on the shaft itself , the combo holds it right there , and it will last longer . just giving you some ideas , because you  are responsive to idea exchange . after my fuel cleaning tank to carb , filter, check valve , use Stabil , and no more hose break down , my filters are clean , have no issues with ethanol regular gas, hope to hear about , run time on your engine ,with RISLONE ZINK , the varnish cleaning / protection , hot oil change , like hot coal oil , good talking , pete     

Thanks for the ideas always happy for more

I put on check valve plus

I put in the zinc .Engine runs great! however I got my wheels back from powder coat

First time actually driving it since restoration and I noticed engine surges slightly under load. By under load all I did was go up a hill in my yard probably 45° nothing major which is a little concerning to me that I would get even slight surging

I believe my carb settings are good

Any thoughts on what it could be??

Thanks again

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pfrederi
15 minutes ago, Mike_eash said:

Thanks for the ideas always happy for more

I put on check valve plus

I put in the zinc .Engine runs great! however I got my wheels back from powder coat

First time actually driving it since restoration and I noticed engine surges slightly under load. By under load all I did was go up a hill in my yard probably 45° nothing major which is a little concerning to me that I would get even slight surging

I believe my carb settings are good

Any thoughts on what it could be??

Thanks again

Carb setting are just guides  all the old farm tractor manuals say take it out an run it then re adjust to get best [performance

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Mike_eash
20 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Carb setting are just guides  all the old farm tractor manuals say take it out an run it then re adjust to get best [performance

Thanks I will try some readjusting

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peter lena

@  Mike-eash   agree with @pfrederi  makes me think you might have a float  setting issue , starving for fuel , on a  slope  ,think  you  need some  tinkering with  that. how does it react to a carb cleaner?  hand on linkage ? have often  used my hand to cover  carb intake  , and pull fuel thru jetting , while using carb cleaner , also loosen your gas tank cap . might have a vent plugged , starving gas flow . think you are right on the edge of getting some solid run time . might even hook that up to a separate gallon on of treated gas . done that a number of times , separate gas line from jug to carb . get some run time on that , have a fuel filter on that ?  also look on line for a carb .run in procedure , pete

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Mike_eash
22 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@  Mike-eash   agree with @pfrederi  makes me think you might have a float  setting issue , starving for fuel , on a  slope  ,think  you  need some  tinkering with  that. how does it react to a carb cleaner?  hand on linkage ? have often  used my hand to cover  carb intake  , and pull fuel thru jetting , while using carb cleaner , also loosen your gas tank cap . might have a vent plugged , starving gas flow . think you are right on the edge of getting some solid run time . might even hook that up to a separate gallon on of treated gas . done that a number of times , separate gas line from jug to carb . get some run time on that , have a fuel filter on that ?  also look on line for a carb .run in procedure , pete

New carb, New filter , New lines cap has open vent checked!  Had flat tire today am going back to tire shop and will tinker with carb settings then see how it runs under load everything else seems to be spot on

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peter lena

@Mike-eash , GOOD MORNING,  glad you are staying after it  !  as you get it into a regular run stage / heat cycling , that zinc will quietly , easily show itself , you are also learning from your experiments , insight , confidence gaining . often its the smallest detail , that you have to find , Pete

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Mike_eash
12 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Mike-eash , GOOD MORNING,  glad you are staying after it  !  as you get it into a regular run stage / heat cycling , that zinc will quietly , easily show itself , you are also learning from your experiments , insight , confidence gaining . often its the smallest detail , that you have to find , Pete

I got her running good now! Zinc seems to be making a difference 

I got some good run time in. rpms jump to 3640 at highest point after run time. Is that too much?? I feel good about it

Idles around 1000rpms

20230925_195116.jpg

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Mike_eash

20230922_181345.jpg

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peter lena

@ Mike-eash, looks good , would not emphasize every last RPM , how does it  run / feel , as you crank it up ? meaning if there is a comfortable run point before that , which regularly show's up for me . take advantage of the zinc benefit / operational ease , often emphasize  operational function / gain , that to me is what you are looking for .would back off that top end , how does it feel getting there ? not to pick , but use dark green spring clamps . also smaller hose .on my fuel set up , also pre build it , so there is just 2 connections .that visible fuel stand is what you want , tractor looks very good , you have done well !  think as you build up hours on that , it will settle in to a running ease , my 3 have done that , back it down to a regular comfortable run area . enjoy your work . look for other related areas to improve on .glad to see your efforts in use , pete

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Mike_eash
2 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ Mike-eash, looks good , would not emphasize every last RPM , how does it  run / feel , as you crank it up ? meaning if there is a comfortable run point before that , which regularly show's up for me . take advantage of the zinc benefit / operational ease , often emphasize  operational function / gain , that to me is what you are looking for .would back off that top end , how does it feel getting there ? not to pick , but use dark green spring clamps . also smaller hose .on my fuel set up , also pre build it , so there is just 2 connections .that visible fuel stand is what you want , tractor looks very good , you have done well !  think as you build up hours on that , it will settle in to a running ease , my 3 have done that , back it down to a regular comfortable run area . enjoy your work . look for other related areas to improve on .glad to see your efforts in use , pete

It revs up quite nicely and I can back off the throttle just a little bit and still have it running really good

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