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Gary S Minnesota

electric lift drawing down battery

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Gary S Minnesota

Hi everyone,

I'm having a battery draw down issue on my 516-H equipped with a factory electric lift for the deck/snow blower.

I connected an ice pick/alligator clip trouble light between the negative battery post and the ground cable.  It glows!  I then began removing circuits until the light no longer glowed.  The only circuit that had an effect( made the light go out) was when I removed the electric lift relay from it's holder.  Upon doing so ,the light the light immediately went out.  I tested the relay with a multi meter and it seems to be good.  I then replaced  the momentary up/down switch thinking it might be feeding the relay NC circuit some current.  No change.  The electric lift wiring harness has a lead going directly to the pos. battery terminal.   It also has a lead to the negative battery terminal.  As soon as I connect the negative ground wire I can hear a slight "click" as the wire touches the neg battery post bolt connector.

I have not been able to find the manual for the electric lift.  I have seen photos of the same lift here on the forum from time to time. Don't know the brand.

If I remove the relay the electric lift relay battery holds its' charge just fine? 

Any suggestions?

thank you!

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WHX??

Hello Gary

That slight click has gotta be something in the lift circuits then. Double check the switch again. The manual for the lift should be here. Try searching in the files for electric lift all keywords. Any idea the part or numbers off the lift? 

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oliver2-44

If checking out the wiring, switch etc doesn’t point to anything then the electric lift motor actuator is suspect. 

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c-series don

I spoke to a Wheel Horse dealer in Connecticut a few months ago and he said that switch alone was upwards of a hundred dollars 😳

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WHX??

Not a generic switch @c-series don ? Surely there must be a reasonable generic replacement? 

Looks to be a double throw double pole spring return to off... :confusion-shrug: then again might be a hard find. 

Edited by WHX??

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Gary S Minnesota

When I purchased this non running 516 H about a year ago none of the gauges or switches were with it.  I sourced after market gauges, ignition switch, light switch etc. I wasn’t able to locate a spring loaded  DPDT switch for the electric lift so settled for one without the spring return.  It worked fine as long as I remembered to switch back to neutral position.  I since found the “momentary” switch which returns to neutral unless you hold it up or down.  Yes, aftermarket, about $24.00.  Found it at a shop that sells and installs snowplows for pick up trucks and ATV’s etc.

BTW the tractor runs great!   Onan strong and smooth.  It sat for about 10ths i was told after “grandpa” passed away.  Interestingly it came with 2 quarts of Toro Wheel Horse paint,  about 15 new unopened decals and a bunch of miscellaneous new small Wheel Horse parts.

Although the steering gear was there (but removed) and gauges etc missing, I thought I’d take a chance on it.  Looked like “Grandpa” was in the process of restoring it so I guessed that the drive train was probably good.  This time I guessed correctly.  Can’t say that has always been the case!!!!!

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JCM

Thank you for this topic. I have a 1986  417-8 with the electric lift and would hate to have it inoperative. Thanks to @WHX??  @oliver2-44  @c-series don  @gwest_ca  & @Gary S Minnesota .  You gentlemen never cease to amaze.   :notworthy:

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Gary S Minnesota

 I appreciate all your responses and the two files/service bulletins.  I noted that my electric lift actuator is wired independent of the ignition switch which makes it simpler,  but also means that current is available to it even though the ignition is turned off. Maybe wiring through the ignition switch would eliminate any current to that circuit and stop the battery draw down?

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c-series don

My 418-8 with unmolested wiring only lets the electric lift work with the key on. 

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wallfish
4 hours ago, Gary S Minnesota said:

Maybe wiring through the ignition switch would eliminate any current to that circuit and stop the battery draw down?

You just answered the question. Wire it from the A terminal on the switch instead of having that positive wire directly to the battery.

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Gary S Minnesota

So if I take the lead from the positive post on the battery and attach it to the A terminal on the switch will the resulting voltage when the relay closes not draw all that voltage “through” the switch rather than directly from battery to actuator.  I guess I need to study the wiring diagram closer.

Thanks.

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squonk

That click you hear is probably the relay contacts closing. You really can't test a relay with a multimeter. There is a chance that the contacts inside the relay are arced enough to carry some current even when open. Like dirty ignition points. The contacts don't open cleanly. That will draw a battery down overnight. That relay is probably a common automotive relay that you can get a bucket full for a few bucks at a junkyard.

 

Amazon.com: 2x 30 amp Power Accessory Car Relay with 5 wire pig tail :  Automotive

 

relay.png.05c5ba9761ace7cc77ac29f6d132c3c5.png

Edited by squonk
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