linkage lift ideas , for your issue ?

[peter lena 8,032]

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=wheel+horse+%2c+lift+lever+plow+linkage&id=9EAA53AF2971F6FBBD63716F33953A87496463BF&form=IQFRBA&first=1&disoverlay=1   just snoopin around  looking for ideas ,  what ever you set up , firm it up with washers and grease for function / ease of movement , eliminate a  sloppy "  shucking  /  lift area " , you want solid / smooth , greasy  pete 

[ebinmaine 62,932]

I'm still thinking solid plow link lift bar with heim joints.  

[peter lena 8,032]

@ebinmaine  choices , if you use  3/8  female , flat  heim joint ,  just a bolt thru  hook up , to a  3/8  , threaded eye bolt / chain  that would be pretty simple , if you had to use a 5/16 bolt thru , use a  bronze  bushing  3/8 x 5x16 , to make the bolt fit size to size . would also detail in lubricate  the end bushing areas . eliminate all the hang up drag areas , washers , elastic lock nuts . when I  first did it , thought it was broken , it worked so easy , had a similar result on my clutch pedal  linkage set up , it worked so easy  it was  silly . when I  read about  squealing  / wheels in the air  clutch  operation , mine starts off in 3rd  , easily . you could also consider the  1/2"  heim joint , have those on my  plow  quadrant to lever set up  , very strong , smooth , no issues at all . sending some good  ju ju  thoughts ,  pete  

[ebinmaine 62,932]

I've set 7/16 rod ends and threaded rod in my McMaster Carr cart.  

 

We'll be using those as a plow lift link.  

 

I went with 7/16" over 3/8 OE size. 

Two reasons:

The holes are almost always egged/oval worn. 

The strength difference of 7/16" over 3/8" is HUGE. 

 

Drill to round the hole and install.  

[rmaynard 14,860]

I do not use a solid link. I use a chain. Reason being, if the blade hits something in the road, instead of trying to lift the whole tractor, it only lifts the blade. I have an expansion joint at the end of my driveway where the apron meets the drive. At times there is a lip that sticks up. I'd rather lift the blade than jolt the whole tractor.

Edited January 2, 2023 by rmaynard

[peter lena 8,032]

@rmaynard  good feed back on  your  experience , use that same brain fart  type of thought on repetitive  problems , stop right there and think , HOW CAN I MAKE THIS BETTER  ?  then I  jump over the fence and eliminate it ,  use a ladder the next time , pete 

[ebinmaine 62,932]

48 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

I do not use a solid link. I use a chain. Reason being, if the blade hits something in the road, instead of trying to lift the whole tractor, it only lifts the blade. I have an expansion joint at the end of my driveway where the apron meets the drive. At times there is a lip that sticks up. I'd rather lift the blade than jolt the whole tractor.

 

We only use a solid link on MANUAL LIFT tractors.  

That way the lift arm just floats along with the plow so if there's an intrusion it isn't an issue.  

 

On my Automatic the plow is so EXTREMELY heavy I don't ever need any down pressure.  

[kpinnc 10,662]

I've said it before: on these 600lb machines, down pressure is highly overrated. Typically you just stop moving and dig a hole with spinning wheels before you know what happened. 

 

I agree with what has already been posted- solid link on manual lift only. You can "ride" the lift arm when needed, but likely won't break anything if the blade needs to jump.

[ebinmaine 62,932]

Just now, kpinnc said:

I've said it before: on these 600lb machines, down pressure is highly overrated. Typically you just stop moving and dig a hole with spinning wheels before you know what happened. 

 

I agree with what has already been posted- solid link on manual lift only. You can "ride" the lift arm when needed, but likely won't break anything if the blade needs to jump.

 

I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift.

I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. 

 

[Handy Don 10,546]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift. 

I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. 

Reasonable caution if thinking fixed link, IMHO.

On tractors without full-length footrests and using a chain lift, one can put ones feet down on the mid-blade for a little extra pressure, eh? 

[ebinmaine 62,932]

6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Reasonable caution if thinking fixed link, IMHO.

On tractors without full-length footrests and using a SOLID lift, one can put ones feet down on the mid-blade for a little extra pressure, eh? 

 

 

As you are well aware Trina has several tractors with no side steps. All of mine do have side steps. Personal preference.

 

She uses an interesting combination of the solid link pushing down with the manual arm and doing as you just said, foot pressure per side as needed.

 

[oliver2-44 8,830]

On 1/4/2023 at 3:24 PM, ebinmaine said:

 

I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift.

I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. 

 

@ebinmaine

I love using my mid-blade on my C160 auto with solid link. You learn how to just bump the hydraulic handle up when motor loads or a tire spins.  Starting out you also can gradually bump blade down till motor loads then bump up/down as needed. 

[Lee1977 6,209]

Not being as tall as some of you, I used my foot on the lift lever for down pressure.  Only problem I have is the clutch peddle is on the same side. A hydro with a rocker foot pad for the lift would be just about perfect for a grader blade,

bet it would work great for a snow blade too.