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ebinmaine

Brake shoe cement/holder. BEST product?

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ebinmaine

Folks i installed a new shoe liner on my C160 -8 3 years ago. It came undone shortly after. 

I reattached it using clear silicone... Again.  

 

Today it came unpasted once more.  

 

Is there a VERY good heavy duty glue I should be using?

 

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Rick3478

I'd have thought that bake-on asphalt stuff or maybe epoxy.  Now that you've had silicone on it, you may find it impossible to get anything to stick.

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Yossarian

I think I remember people mentioning E-6000 for that. I could be wrong though.

 

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squonk

Get some windshield urethane adhesive and a new caulk gun. Warm up the urethane. Wear old clothes and gloves. The lining will never come off again! The gun will probably get worn out. Maybe Trina will have to squeeze the trigger! 

 

3M™ Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive, HMLC, 310 ml, Cartridge, 58015  | 3M Lebanon

Edited by squonk
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OldWorkHorse

Could just Flintstone it? They stopped cars made of stones and logs with just there feet wheel horse should be nothing to stop. :techie-idea:

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ri702bill

Ask Maynard the "Brake Band Guy" in the vendors section.......

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squonk

Windshield urethane is about the strongest stuff made. Cars are designed for the windshield to help prevent a roof cave in in the event of a rollover. The windshield has to stay in the frame. You don't see them fly out like the old days and if you ever changed your own WS in the last 20 years you know how tough the stuff is. 

 

I used to sell it to Marina's and power sport dealers to keep the rubber mats and trim glued down under wet conditions.

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Pullstart

My first vehicle (I know you guys WON’T believe I wrecked that one) was an ‘89 Jeep Cherokee.  I’ll argue it wasn’t my fault to the day I die.  The right rear axle and wheel/tire assembly was found in the weeds before any skid marks happened.  On the road Sylvia, not in my pants!  When the side of the truck hit the gravel road, it popped the rear glass right out and there it lay in the middle of the road.  I wheeled it another 50-75 yards and had the other side of the truck on the road again and back up to the wheels before it slid sideways into a tree to stop me.  That rear glass obviously didn’t have @squonk glue on it!

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squonk

Only windshields are mandated to stay in to prevent roof cave in. Also not surprised the rear axle broke on an 89 Jeep. They were pretty wimpy.

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Wild Bill 633
16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there a VERY good heavy duty glue I should be using?

80 grit, lacquer thinner & JB Weld 8265S (550 degree, 5020 PSI)

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

80 grit, lacquer thinner & JB Weld 8265S (550 degree, 5020 PSI)

Will the lacquer thinner clean the silicone off the shoe lining?

 

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rjg854

I used Gorilla glue on mine, a couple of years ago and it's still ok as far as I know.  :teasing-poke:

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elcamino/wheelhorse

Found some paper work on a brake liner I bought from Bob many years ago . I just found the liner in the shed from heck. Bob recommend Permatex pmx80050 clear rtv silicone adhesive or Goop all purpose adhesive.  Having found the liner now the Waldomobile will have new brake. He he 

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lynnmor
32 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Will the lacquer thinner clean the silicone off the shoe lining?

 

Silicone is proof that the devil exists, nothing will completely remove it.  Never use silicone if there is another product that is available.  There is a product at hardware stores that claims to remove silicone and it may be worth a try, I have used it on non-porous surfaces with some success, but my guess is that only elbow grease and sandpaper will work for you.

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ebinmaine
13 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

clear rtv silicone

This is what I used both times.  It isn't specifically stated as adhesive but I thought all clear silicone was adhesive. 

Perhaps that's my error on misunderstanding.  

 

Methinks I'll do a multistage attack with  @lynnmor's elbow grease and some other items.

 

 

@squonk I appreciate the info on the urethane and I agree it would be excellent. 

It's also $30-$35 in my area which a lot for a single use item.  

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squonk
18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

This is what I used both times.  It isn't specifically stated as adhesive but I thought all clear silicone was adhesive. 

Perhaps that's my error on misunderstanding.  

 

Methinks I'll do a multistage attack with  @lynnmor's elbow grease and some other items.

 

 

@squonk I appreciate the info on the urethane and I agree it would be excellent. 

It's also $30-$35 in my area which a lot for a single use item.  

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=asc_df_B000RW1XCK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242122067968&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2319054187124327891&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005158&hvtargid=pla-524154367895&psc=1

 

 

15 bucks as opposed to using stuff that doesn't work. You make the call. :banana-wrench:

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ebinmaine
53 minutes ago, squonk said:

15 bucks as opposed to using stuff that doesn't work. You make the call. :banana-wrench:

I wish it were that simple...

Access to product varies widely region to region. 

You folks south and west of here for example can buy windshield washer fluid far cheaper than here in Maine. 

 

 

3M 08693 or black 08609 are $26 to $45 around here. 

If I get it shipped in it's $18 on the jungle site PLUS freight so I'm back to the above pricing and then some.... And I get to wait a week for it.  

 

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elcamino/wheelhorse

@rjg854 Randy I think I am going to follow you and try the Gorilla glue . It sure will dry good by the time the Waldomobile is back in action. 

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wallfish

 Will Gorilla glue stand up to heat?

Everyday flat ground and average braking, it probably won't matter

Down hill constant braking, those things can get hot. or if a small portion of the band is constantly touching the drum. :twocents-02cents:

Most cases the heat probably isn't an issue. I used JB weld on the tractor bike's band. That thing can create a lot of heat. ( Like on those long down hill runs at Stevebo's 5 mile ride. She was a squealing last year)

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Found some paper work on a brake liner I bought from Bob many years ago . I just found the liner in the shed from heck. Bob recommend Permatex 80050 clear rtv silicone adhesive

 

 

First of all...

Thanks to all posters above for some great information.  

 

 

I got to poking around the basement workshop and found some of the exact recommended product.  

 

I consulted the BBT who generally has a mind like a steel trap. Her memory is startlingly excellent. 

Neither of us remembered taking a lot of time cleaning up the band or shoe when I installed it originally and I'm QUITE sure I did not use the recommended 80050 on the first application. 

A comment above by @Rick3478 got me looking online a little more. Rick mentioned that because I used silly-cone the first time that's what I may have to stick with. :hide:

Other info on the interwebs and my own past experience agrees with that.   

 

So... Given that it's VERY likely my own fault for not doing proper prep and.... not wanting to use another piece of brake lining I decided to do a good strong clean up and reuse the existing shoe.  

 

 

I removed the tires and got to the brake band. Popped that off and commenced to cleaneration and modification. 

IMG_20220927_121542307_HDR.jpg.cc45b25846bc58bdb543224765c8c142.jpg

 

 

I used coarse paper to scuff the surface of both band and shoe, then a finer paper to even and smooth the surface of both as per a thought induced by @wallfish :

13 minutes ago, wallfish said:

or if a small portion of the band is constantly touching the drum

I found one spot worn more than the rest. 

 

After that I dug into the rivet holes a little with a wood bit on my drill press. 

IMG_20220927_124328278_HDR.jpg.276bdbe3f2d58993fa8df5a738f4797b.jpg

 

 

I cleaned the band and shoe extensively with acetone because that's what I had here.  

Wiping the metal band until it was clean was fairly easy. The shoe took a fair amount more work... But it's good.  

 

Nice even coat of PE 80050 and some clamps. And we wait. 

 

IMG_20220927_132308167_HDR.jpg.d9c6f58cbc5dd2059f6835671ce5e00e.jpg

 

I'll install it when I get a minute..............

 

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SylvanLakeWH

Work with what ya got… :handgestures-thumbupright:

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wallfish
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I used coarse paper to scuff the surface of both band and shoe, then a finer paper to even and smooth the surface of both as per a thought induced by @wallfis

I wouldn't smooth gluing surfaces. Rough surface is better for gluing/adhesion. You should be good though.

Next one you can clamp the band tight around the drum. That will put pressure on the the entire thing. You can install it over the drum and use a strap on the pedal to clamp it too

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, wallfish said:

I wouldn't smooth gluing surfaces. Rough surface is better for gluing/adhesion. You should be good though.

Next one you can clamp the band tight around the drum. That will put pressure on the the entire thing. You can install it over the drum and use a strap on the pedal to clamp it too

 

I should clarify "fine". 

It was 120 grit.  

 

I did ((kinda)) use the drum and brake band as a clamp ... Sort of. 

I've installed it and set the park brake on a hard hold for the night.  

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Horse Newbie

Sounds like she’ll be stopping on a dime…

or a quarter…

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Horse Newbie said:

Sounds like she’ll be stopping on a dime…

or a quarter…

I'd settle for a bath towel's distance.  :ROTF:

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