Jump to content
ebinmaine

Can I just heat shrink this wire to save it?

Recommended Posts

Look at the used to be red wire on the left and you'll see a bunch of frayed rope looking stuff. I'm wondering if I can just snap the end off and slide a piece of heat shrink down over it and then re-terminal the end.

 

Can't see why I can't do that. Just wanted to run it by you folks....

IMG_20180620_200115336.jpg.cc39d4b705642f542b35f086da247c5f.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it were me I'd try it but find some way to keep it away from those fins. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It might work for for a while, but those frayed wires will increase the resistance of that wire, and will heat up at that point.  If it were mine, and replacing the entire wire is not an option, I would cut out the bad section and solder in a new section.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It would probably be fine but I'd suggest replacing the wire, The frayed look is just the insulation but you do need to get it away from the heat. Ya gotta cut the wire to get the shrink wrap on it so why not just replace it? :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Cvans said:

If it were me I'd try it but find some way to keep it away from those fins. 

 

Yeah, sure will.

That's the mag wire so I don't know where it should sit but I'll double triple check it.

 

5 hours ago, McGrew said:

out the bad section and solder in a new section.

I've got crimping down to a science and always use good quality connectors with heat shrink ends.

I haven't tried to solder a wire.

Maybe a bout time I learned...

 

4 hours ago, Racinbob said:

It would probably be fine but I'd suggest replacing the wire, The frayed look is just the insulation but you do need to get it away from the heat. Ya gotta cut the wire to get the shrink wrap on it so why not just replace it? :)

I'll take another look at it sometime.

I'm not sure there's enough wire out to cut/replace without removing the flywheel which I do NOT want to do.

But... Valid point... That piece does need to go.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I mostly buy non-insulated terminals and dual wall shrink boot w/adhesive - that is how I've done 95% of the wiring jobs the last 30yrs or so. Much simpler to crimp a wire, fire up the mini butane torch and use some good quality rosin core solder to flow out the connection - plus, it prevents corrosion later in the copper joint. Learned the hard working on big rigs and trailers that non-soldered connections will fail in a fairly short time, regardless of shrink boot or none, if moisture can get to the connection point, it's over. While hot, I also dip the connector in a tub of NoOx, it will flow into and protect any type of terminal used on our equipment. I've had the connection tabs rot clean off of lights but the terminal part will not fail - the stuff really makes a difference. You can use the black dielectric grease from auto/hardware stores, it's not quite as good but NoOx is very tough to find/buy.

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By ebinmaine
      As stated in another section my honey went and bought herself a 657 a few days ago. Sunday afternoon to be exact.
       
      Runs and drives quite well and had a very serious and non negotiable issue.
      It's Oliver green with Ford gray wheels.
       
      Other than that the work should be minimal standard stuff.
       
      Well of course she started tearing right into the disassembling of the lucky little tractor.
      We started to show the daily work being done to it and then realized we should really start a new thread in the proper location.
       
      So here's a few before pics as a reminder.
       

       

       

       

       
      Here's the end of Sunday results.
       

       

       
      And a pic from Monday nights work.
       

       
      After this was taken she found some spray on paint stripper and emptied the can on it.
       
      We left it on for 24 hours or so.
       
      And found red paint!!
       

       

       
       
       
    • By ebinmaine
      If you read the restoration thread you'll see that one of my recent posts involves me snapping off the end of the crankshaft during an attempted repair.
      You'll also see about a Briggs & Stratton engine  I'm going to use.
       
      What I'm looking for in this thread is if anyone has ever put an older style Briggs & Stratton in place of a Tecumseh or even a Kohler....
       
      What are the things I need to watch for?
    • By ebinmaine
      I'm accustomed to using Non detergent oil in all older small engines.
      Thanks to @pfrederi I have the manual for the Tecumseh and it says to use detergent oil BUT it is printed in 1998... Over 30 years after DOM on my engine.
       
      What do you folks use??
       
       
    • By ebinmaine
      I've ordered this set
       
      https://www.redoyourhorse.com/tecumseh-4-pc-engine-decal-set/
       
      from our awesome vendor Terry @Vinylguy.
       
      I know where the balloon sticker goes and the oil sticker.
       
      Where does the large "Solid State" one belong??
       
      Thanks!!
       
×