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I am selling my 1976 Wheel HorseD-250. I believe this was the first year they produced theD-250. Tractor runs good. Package include a 60" mower deck and a tiller. Tiller has been welded. I am asking $2000 OBO. Tractor must be picked up. Please call (217) 249-3793 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a large dirt leveling & shaping project coming up down the road. Seat time!
I need to be able to loosen up high areas to push them around to level and improve drainage of a 100 ft x 150 ft back yard. The soil is sandy/clay granite gravel. It has enough clay in it to be very hard when very dry, but will dig fairly easily when damp.
So I'm starting to think about how to install a tiller and dozer blade on my C-160 at the same time.
I wish I could even mount the Tiller and a Center Mount Grader Blade at the same time.
But I suspect the blade would hit the front wheels when angled since it would be mounted forward of its normal position, or it would hit the front tiller pulley?
One idea I'm thinking of essentially making a double rear axle hitch, one in front of the other. The tiller would mount in the rear mount under the axle in the normal positionn so the pulleys would be in the correct location so the belt length would not change. The dozer blade wound mount in the forward mount, and its lift link would have to be a custom length. I'm thinking I need to make some type of support bracket from each side of the front mount that would mount to the frame. The forward mount would also have to be spaced forward enough so the end of the dozer blade arms would not hit the tiller cross bar in the rear hitch mount.The normal hitch locks probable would not work, so I'm thinking a locking bar would be bolted on to lock both implements in place.
The other idea would be one hitch directly below the other in the normal axle position. It would also have to have some type of brace to the forward frame so as to not put a twisting force on the axle. I haven't figured out if there's enough ground clearance to do this type of arrangement.
The front dozer blade would be lifted by the existing hydraulic lift and the rear tiller would be lifted by a 2nd rear hydraulic cylinder. Only one implement would be in use at one time.
I'm thinking I will make a wood mock up of both ideas to work out some basic details before I start cutting & welding.
Has anyone tried this? I would like to learn what worked and what didn't from others. if you haven't tried it, I still like to hear your thoughts on what might work, or potential problems that I haven't thought of yet.
So many projects, got to find a way to make them fun!
Hi, hoping someone can help. I'm over in France trying to tidy up my place before the winter so do not have all the tools I have back at home. I have a separate problem with the gear box but have posted separately.
Back in July when l last used the tractor it was loosing power when it got hot, and looking on the internet it appeared that the coil may be the problem.
i have just returned to France and brought a new coil with me and replaced the old one. This coil has a separate ballast resistor attached. The tractor started first go and I started to cut the grass but with gearbox problems. The grass was long and thick in places and the tractor coped well, just heading the governor apply a bit more power in places. Them after about half an hour the engine lost power and there were some visible flames commons ftom the exhaust.
can any one tell me what is happening here. I assume that it is heat related because the engine started first go and then ran well. But it must have been fully up to temperature long before this loss of power. Seeing flames from the exhaust indicates that the fuel is not being burnt in the cylinder, is this an ignition problem? Or are the valve not shutting properly an the fuel is just being pushed straight out of the engine?
I'm sure it would look quite cool after dark, but with no power the grass will keep growing. Hop some one can help.