Picked up a Snow Blade

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Thanks, Walt.  I will try and model this, maybe this weekend, depending on whether or not I get time.  Thanks, again.

[Walt 339]

Your welcome, keep the pictures coming I'm interested in how it turns out. 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Walt,

When you get time, can you check the dimensions again.  On an earlier posts you had 20 3/8 and 22 inches to two bends, and the last post you had 26 1/8 to the first bend from the perpendicular lines.

[Walt 339]

3 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Walt,

When you get time, can you check the dimensions again.  On an earlier posts you had 20 3/8 and 22 inches to two bends, and the last post you had 26 1/8 to the first bend from the perpendicular lines.

Since this would have bugged me all night I ran out got heat gun to warm the rubber grip for removal and wrenches to pull trigger. Not sure why I wrote 26 1/8" on last drawing but it is 20 1/8" it is 20 3/8" from outside of radius. The 22" measurement in first drawing wasn't as an exact measurement as the 20 1/8" plus 1/4" to outside of radius and the 1 9/16 totaling 21 15/16"  for a 1/16 difference in over all length from top of lever to the kick back point. Have left my lever disassembled in case you would like me to remeasure the 3 hole locations from the scribe lines instead of going from outside of the radius's.  

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Okay, yeah I thought the 26 looked out of place.  Thanks for clarifying the number.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I just have to hop in here and say that @Walt, that is some fine detailing you are doing! I have rarely seen it so thorough. This place and its members are awesome! 

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

     ,,    a work of art, real professional.

 

Glenn

[DennisThornton 4,769]

5 hours ago, bmsgaffer said:

I just have to hop in here and say that @Walt, that is some fine detailing you are doing! I have rarely seen it so thorough. This place and its members are awesome! 

I wonder what John Deeres could do if they had a forum group like this one?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

11 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

I wonder what John Deeres could do if they had a forum group like this one?

They do, it's called WFM

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Walt,

Just to clarify, the 13 degree bend is between the 21 and 27 degree bends?  Correct?  From your earlier posts and from the last pictures, that is what I'm reading and seeing, but just wanted a clarification.

[Walt 339]

I'll check it today once I head out to garage. Running an hour or so behind my normal daily time line, didn't wake up till 9 normally i'm up between 7 and 8 I must have needed sleep.

 

[lt230s 14]

Terry,

That bracket (quick-tach?) you posted in your first post, second picture. Does that mount to the back of the tractor to hold the rear of blade? I have one that my father had and figured it was from a WH due to color, but wasn't sure since he never had any other WH than the Ranger that I have now.

I doubt I can use on the Ranger, but wanted to clarify & maybe offer it on here if someone can use it. I will get some pics this weekend to post in new thread so fellow members can verify.

[Walt 339]

1 hour ago, lt230s said:

Terry,

That bracket (quick-tach?) you posted in your first post, second picture. Does that mount to the back of the tractor to hold the rear of blade? I have one that my father had and figured it was from a WH due to color, but wasn't sure since he never had any other WH than the Ranger that I have now.

I doubt I can use on the Ranger, but wanted to clarify & maybe offer it on here if someone can use it. I will get some pics this weekend to post in new thread so fellow members can verify.

That attaches to the rear axle takes two mini clevis pins with slip style cotter pins to lock levers on rod at rear of plow frame. Not sure what the little red tab at top of picture by the trucks wheel well is for I don't have one on mine.

[Walt 339]

Got the angle for you when I first rechecked it was dam near perfect 13 degrees but I noticed that it was also hitting both bare metal and painted spots. I cleaned paint off of enough to to were I could get protractor head and blade to hit four solid points two on the head and two on the blade. Proceeded to double check protractor for zero (2nd picture). By putting 2x4 with towel over behind lever I checked angle, the towel enhanced light and dark so I could be sure of my 4 points of contact (3rd picture). It now appears the actual angle is 11 degrees (4th picture). I also changed the 1st drawing I made for you (5th picture) to more closely match what I would have to expected to see when working for a living this may assist you by being less confusing when putting in the info for your 3D model. Any thing else you need just ask I have project planed for tomorrow and doing lathe work for my blower project this afternoon. But Sunday its forecasted to rain so will be cleaning up some in garage and would rather do most anything than sort nuts, bolts, screws and other assorted bs even tho they need to be put away for ease of finding what I want when working on a project.

Edited October 14, 2016 by Walt

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498]

Are you sure that last bend is supposed to be there? I was always under the impression they got like that from use.

 

Garry

[Walt 339]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Are you sure that last bend is supposed to be there? I was always under the impression they got like that from use.

 

Garry

There are no signs of paint cracking or stretched metal metal that would signify the bend we are working with isn't from factory. If you look at pictures from my first workup there is one with marker in it at the bend we discussing. It looks to me this bend is to keep lever within operator reach when blade is articulated to the right or lever pushed forward. Since I have mower deck pulled at the moment for the snow thrower project. I'll mount my blade tomorrow snap a few pictures of lever in each of it's 3 positions. Had already planed on posting pictures tomorrow of my snow thrower project. Trying to get all our members their WH porn fix.  

Edited October 14, 2016 by Walt

[Walt 339]

First 3 pictures are of my blade mounted and articulated to the left. The second picture shows the lever just clearing brake pedal. If pedal is fully pushed forward to set parking brake with blade in this position lever and pedal do come into contact.The third picture shows the blade articulated to the left if you look closely you can see I have removed the bolt and changed to a clevis pin to make blade and frame separation easier. The 4th and 5th pictures are of blade in straight on or centered position and brake pedal clearance. Last four pictures are with blade articulated to the right played hell trying to get a picture showing lever and rod clearance of PTO but there is plenty of clearance. I will say if the bend I clarified for you yesterday was not there I think lever would hit the PTO. I also have to lean over the steering wheel to grip lever and pull trigger to change blade position when in this position.

[Walt 339]

 T-Mo-(Moderator)

Was just curious how your lever project was coming along?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

I haven't had time to work on it until today.  I will remodel the lever with the new information.

[Walt 339]

1 hour ago, T-Mo said:

I haven't had time to work on it until today.  I will remodel the lever with the new information.

Figured it was something along the life happens that often side tracks the things we would prefer to do. Happens to me all the time that why my favorite quot is from John Steinbeck  "The best laid plans of mice and men often go astray". 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345]

Here is what I modeled this morning (along with the lever mechanism and rod I done before.

[Walt 339]

5 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Here is what I modeled this morning (along with the lever mechanism and rod I done before.

Rod will come in from back side of lever and on blade end will point up to go through hole it mounts in. Looking good  

[oliver2-44 8,852]

@Walt @T-Mo This is great information. I picked up a blade that was missing the trigger wire, wire to pull the pin and the angling rod. 

Forgive me for hijacking this thread, but Walt if you could add the dimensions for the wire to pull the center pin.  Also is the rod to angle the blade 3/8" or 7/16" dia.

Them all the info would be in one place. 

 

I've got a dirt project for my dozer and grader blade. No snow down here!

Edited December 10, 2016 by oliver2-44

[Walt 339]

22 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

@Walt @T-Mo This is great information. I picked up a blade that was missing the trigger wire, wire to pull the pin and the angling rod. 

Forgive me for hijacking this thread, but Walt if you could add the dimensions for the wire to pull the center pin.  Also is the rod to angle the blade 3/8" or 7/16" dia.

Them all the info would be in one place. 

 

I've got a dirt project for my dozer and grader blade. No snow down here!

I will see what I can do about getting this info for you but blade is mounted at moment and till I switch to snow thrower its not easy to get to.

[Walt 339]

 oliver2-44

I pulled my blade few days ago to mount snow thrower. Today after running errands I decided to start a let the couple of vehicles run for a bit that I have parked in side yard till spring. While setting on my stool in garage thinking of what I could do while waiting on them to warm up and keeping battery's charged. I noticed the blade and remembered you asked for this info so here you go. The 1st picture is a quick sketch with the dimensions the 2nd and 3rd pictures are of the bends on ends of my wire from the triangular rocker to the pin. If you have any question let me know I'll see if I can answer them.