Jump to content
r356c

B-80 Transmission Input Pully Frozen

Recommended Posts

rmaynard

I have a couple of those input shafts should you need one. I also have any other gears that may have been damaged. I have used bearings, but other than the #1533 bearing, I would suggest using new ones.

 

I am leaving for the Wheel Horse show on Thursday morning, so I can ship Monday through Wednesday.

 

PM or email me at rmaynard@qis.net.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

Thanks Bob,

 

My 4-speed unidrive transmission shopping list looks like:

2-27 axles  (and hubs)

2-28 Input Gear

2-31 Spline Shaft

 

Steve,

I found the root cause of why this transmission was such a mystery. The needle bearing 2-29 was not installed. By who? I don't know. I'll assume the factory.

The two needle bearings in the case supporting the input gear were taking the entire radial load for awhile, failed, and the the boss in the casting supported the input gear at an angle.

The boss is worn down about .030 on the low side. I am sure a machine shop can fly cut the boss back to level and some McMaster-Carr shims or thrust washers can replace the missing meat.

The photo shows what it did to the spline shaft.

post-13283-0-76245100-1402762450_thumb.j

Edited by r356c
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Actually, it looks like that bearing just disintegrated.  I think I can see what is left of the bearing sheath in that picture.  If you take a small screwdriver or an awl, I think you can get behind that piece of metal...it will bend in a little and then rip and you can pull it out with a needle nose pliers.  :)

 

Bob sounds like he has the parts you need, and he will do you right...just replace them.  :)

 

sure did a number on the bottom of that spline shaft.

Edited by stevasaurus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

The ridge is from the galling of the spline shaft. There was never any bearing in here. :)

Overall, this transmission can be saved ! I was worried the bore around the input gear was tore up, but the boss took the abuse. A much easier fix.

post-13283-0-25101700-1402764434_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Great pics...thanks  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

Of course you have a better view of it even with the good pictures but are you sure r356c? That looks exactly like one I have. It looks like the inner flange of the bearing case is still at the bottom of the bore and the outer flange has been battered and ground to smitherings. I didn't realize I still had the outer casing in mine until I got to picking at it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

Hi Racinbob,

 

This input gear is scrap, so out comes the hammer and center punch...

 

Nope, no bearing sleeve in here.

 

It's amazing the transmission worked, and worked hard from the looks of the axles. The designers knew a thing or two about damage tolerence and having critical components like transmissions fail gracefully.

post-13283-0-04771200-1402768828_thumb.j

Edited by r356c

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

Ok. I see what you mean now. I have a few parts but I'm not sure how they cross to yours. The other Bob is going to be a lot more help to you. Did the hi/2nd gear survive the abuse? Especially the inside teeth? That was toast on mine and is a bugger to find. I did find a NOS on Ebay that I bought but it was pricy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

Everything else looks good!  Wheelhorseforum is well on it's way to getting another horse back on it's feet.

The resources here, both technical and experience wise are unbeatable.

Edited by r356c
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

You got that right. The folks on here are the best. I've been playing with Wheel Horses since 1960 and I thought I was pretty knowledgeable about them. I quickly found out here that I was just starting to learn.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

As should have been expected, local machine shops wanted far more to make one cut than the transmission is worth. That is, if they would touch it at all.

The question is back to scrap or save.

My initial guess of how much of the boss had been worn away was off by a lot.  It is .122 low on the worn side.

This goes from shims to thrust bearing territory.

An eighth inch thick, 1.5 inch o.d. thrust bearing is a substantial chunk of metal. It will "hide" a lot of imperfections from the rotating input gear if the boss is "machined" by hand rather than the correct way.

Knowing the conditions the transmission operated under for a long time makes this an easy decision. Save it! :)

post-13283-0-83134200-1403201267_thumb.j

Edited by r356c
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

This is not as drama filled as some machine shops would want you to believe. $$$

Rough grinding using the side of a Dremel diamond cut-off wheel.

Machinists use a product called dykem to identify high and low spots. A sharpie pen works too. :)

Lots of checking with the 19mm socket pushed in from the bottom of the bore to use as a visual reference of level.

post-13283-0-30456200-1403277681_thumb.j

Edited by r356c
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

.125 material removed to make room for a thrust bearing and roughly 50% available bearing contact surface. The dark areas are sharpie ink.

I don't think this surface really sees much thrust load at all in *normal* use.

Plenty good to get the B-80 motoring around again.

The final material removal used a piece of emery paper pinched between the 19mm deep socket used as a pilot in the bore and a disk of aluminum as a backer for the paper.

I did this one by hand. The *next* one will get some 1/4 inch threaded rod, washers and nuts to compress everything and give a place for a hand drill to attach. :)

post-13283-0-55579600-1403286270_thumb.j

Edited by r356c
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

After an initial failed attempt to mate the case halves together a year and a half ago...

(These horses are patient if the owner gets frustrated and walks away) :deadhorse:

 

The B-80 is back together and motoring around.

I had completely forgotten what a pleasing sound those old cast iron Kohler engines sing.

As mentioned, the original owner was a retired Air Force A&P. He did a nice job on the engine rebuild.

He was Korean War era. Interesting stories about bore sighting an F-86 Sabre in Korea when I was purchasing the B-80. :USA:

 

The best news... the wife called the Wheelhorse "cute" during my initial runs.

I won't tell her they can multiply like rabbits.

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Glad you got her back together and running. You are correct that nothing sounds better than cast iron singing in the sunshine. :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

Thanks Bob! Our best thoughts on your continued recovery with the back surgery.

 

Without Red Square, this B-80 would not have been able to be repaired. (At least by me.)

 

I know, pictures or it didn't happen.

 

IMAG0406.jpg

IMAG0407.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

I'm curious as to why it took so long to get together, and what was the mating problem.  I happen to have one frustrating me at the moment.  It has set for 5 days now, while I think about it.  :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
r356c

Hi Steve!,

The electrolysis tank you have going is too cool!

 

Well, I transposed open and closed end for two of the needle bearings when I ordered replacements.  I only discovered this after I had gooed one half of the case flange with gasket seal and attempted final assembly. Your instructions are clear and correct. It was my oversight.

 

Mid June is the beginning of twice-a-week mowing of Bahia grass and the Wheelhorse project went into the nice to have rather than the need to have category.

Births, deaths, weddings, work... the usual events... time slips... I knew the transmission was well pickled and not picking up surface rust so I let it slide.

 

I hooked up the mid-mount scraper blade and played in the dirt this evening. Everything is holding together!

The B-80 is my first piece of ground engaging capable equipment.  Those transmissions are stout! The little Kohler burbles along like it may be using 4hp pulling a scraper full of dirt around. Sweet!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
can whlvr

good lookin tractor,well worth the time and bucks  to keep her alive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • rustyedge1
      By rustyedge1
      Need head for WH K181 S Kohler. Mine has spark plug hole stripped.
      Reasonable priced, shipped.
       
       
    • jmack
      By jmack
      I’m looking for a transmission dipstick to a D-180. Let me know if you see one. 
    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...