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BearPro

Differential Problems

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BearPro

Anyone ever have the four nuts holding the differential together come off?

Mine had three that come off and busted up some of the gears and one of the diff plates.

This was on a 520H Hydro.

 

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roadapples

:WRS:

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ebinmaine

@BearPro

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

From another Bear 🐻.  

 

 

I absolutely have seen the differential nuts and bolts destroyed upon disassembly.  

Can't remember which tractor it was... 

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cafoose

@stevasaurus should be able to help. He's our differential expert :handgestures-thumbupright:

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stevasaurus

I would contact one of the venders down on the main page.  A-Z would be one for sure.  :eusa-think:

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti: Michigander!  Bummer on that diff!

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BearPro
6 hours ago, roadapples said:

:WRS:

Thanks!

I'm new to Wheel Horse's, I'm a Simplicity guy.

I don't actually have a whole Wheel Horse, I bought a frame and some other stuff to make a mini pickup.

I didn't even know what model it was, as it had no body work at all, Finally figured it out to be a 520H

It's got the heavy duty reduction steering and the swept front axle.

 

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BearPro
3 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

I would contact one of the venders down on the main page.  A-Z would be one for sure.  :eusa-think:

Thanks!

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BearPro
6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@BearPro

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

From another Bear 🐻.  

 

 

I absolutely have seen the differential nuts and bolts destroyed upon disassembly.  

Can't remember which tractor it was... 

Thanks!

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ebinmaine
56 minutes ago, BearPro said:

Thanks!

I'm new to Wheel Horse's, I'm a Simplicity guy.

I don't actually have a whole Wheel Horse, I bought a frame and some other stuff to make a mini pickup.

I didn't even know what model it was, as it had no body work at all, Finally figured it out to be a 520H

It's got the heavy duty reduction steering and the swept front axle.

 

 

Just in what you have there... You've already got a great start to the mini pickup project. 

 

You'll find VERY quickly we likes our pictures. 

 

I'm sure I speak fairly for a few others when I say we'd love to see what you have and what you intend to do with it. 

 

 

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daveoman1966

This is the gearbox of a 1992 520-H.

(If yours isn't a 1992, lemme know and I'll post a different schematic to ref...maybe they are all the same...not sure.)    

 I have many of these gears if you can tell me (by #) which ones you need. ExtraLarge

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953 nut

:WRS:

Here is the website address for A-Z Tractor https://a-ztractor.com/. It is best to call Lincoln rather than email.

When you get your replacement differential I would suggest replacing the nuts on the differential with new ones torqued to 35 ft/lb. You can get the correct nuts at McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3513         94830A570p1-b01-digitall@1x_637141527663006385.png?ver=ImageNotFound  new grade 8 bolts would be a good idea while you are at it.

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BearPro
5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

:WRS:

Here is the website address for A-Z Tractor https://a-ztractor.com/. It is best to call Lincoln rather than email.

When you get your replacement differential I would suggest replacing the nuts on the differential with new ones torqued to 35 ft/lb. You can get the correct nuts at McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/3513         94830A570p1-b01-digitall@1x_637141527663006385.png?ver=ImageNotFound  new grade 8 bolts would be a good idea while you are at it.

Thanks, I planned on getting new nuts, and I don't have a choice on the bolts. :D

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BearPro
12 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

This is the gearbox of a 1992 520-H.

(If yours isn't a 1992, lemme know and I'll post a different schematic to ref...maybe they are all the same...not sure.)    

 I have many of these gears if you can tell me (by #) which ones you need. ExtraLarge

 

Thanks guys, this forum is great, was not expecting such a good response.

Maybe they should call it "Red Carpet Square".  :o)

I'm not sure what year this thing is, it has  metal oil lines, and see the picture of the only body part i have of it.

Here's what I need to replace

2- #12   might be able to salvage one of these but would rather replace them both.

#13      Mine might be serviceable but it has one tooth that is chipped, plus I think the holes might be elongated as well.

#24 or #22  I don't have a shop press to remove the old one.

if the two gears you have are from the same unit, would think it would be wise to go with a matched set of ring & pinion gears.

My pinion gear looks good, though gear #24 is really bad.

The rest of the parts would all be new replacements.

I'm not sure what happened to this as I didn't own it at the time, I'm beginning to think it had a massive load put on it and just snapped the bolts off.

Maybe the bolts were over-torqued, but I don't think anyone had been inside this unit before.

 

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Edited by BearPro

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BearPro
17 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Just in what you have there... You've already got a great start to the mini pickup project. 

 

You'll find VERY quickly we likes our pictures. 

 

I'm sure I speak fairly for a few others when I say we'd love to see what you have and what you intend to do with it. 

 

 

 

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BearPro

Just going to build it out with an extended wheel base so I can put a bed on it, mostly for hauling firewood.

I would like it to go a little faster though, say 15 MPH.

I'm thinking I might try and graft a Sundstrand 15 up to the Wheel Horse trans-axle to get the additional speed

as the Sundstrand turns at 3600. I would not need all that much torque, not like when you are plowing, so I think it will work,

especially if I add an oil cooler.

 

 

 

 

 

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daveoman1966

I do have the 44-tooth (2-piece) GEAR # 22...   and... the Differential RING GEAR #13...  as well as the two AXLE gears #20

Me thinks the 520-H wants the TWO PIECE 44T gear...6-1/2" long X 4-5/8" wide.--Lower RIGHT CORNER in these pics.    

None of these gears have any chips or cracks...completely serviceable. 

$50 bux for both the 44-tooth gear and the Ring gear.... I'll donate the two axle gears.

Gotta charge $15 to ship to USA zips. 

Sorry...don't have the two END CAPS #12.... 

 I also have a box of other gears ---#26 shaft and gears -27 & 28-  

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Edited by daveoman1966

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BearPro

Well crap, my # 24 is a 46 tooth and measures around 4.800.

Gonna have to pass on the ring gear, I really need those side plates.

I have a guy that will sell me the whole diff for $60.

I really do appreciate you going to the bother of listing these up for me though.

Thank you much.

-John

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Handy Don
18 hours ago, BearPro said:

I would like it to go a little faster though, say 15 MPH.

Making a hydro go faster simply by trying to spin the input faster might work for a small, incremental speed boost, but it risks ruining the hydro pump/motor. Trying to make the oil move at those higher speed can cause mucho internal issues--even fatal ones. Going for triple the design speed? Highly not recommended.

Horses for courses (pun intended).

If you want more speed with a WH hydro you can go to larger tires and wheels or get a 520-HC transaxle (designed for commercial users, they had a top speed of ~9 vs. the standard 6+ mph).

If you want to go really fast, get an 8-speed transmission where you can tweak the pulley sizes. You may want to switch to a centrifugal clutch since the "standard" belt cover guide's technique for stopping the belt won't be possible and you REALLY want to avoid grinding gears.

Edited by Handy Don
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BearPro

No, no, I'm not doing that at all, The stock Eaton 1100 when driven at 3600 outputs around 1750 rpm with twice the torque.

A Sundstrand  15 driven at 3600 outputs around 3600 rpm. Normally for a garden tractor you would have around 28-30 : 1 gear ratio.

The Wheel Horse transaxle has a 16:1 ratio which if you drive it at 3600 you will get almost twice the speed at the wheels.

I don't think 3600 is that fast for an input as every other tractor that uses the Sundstrand or Vickers turns at that rate.

The 16:1 ratio on the Wheel Horse is one of the main reasons I bought this unit.

I looks like it's going to be almost impossible to couple the Sundstrand to the wheel Horse trans, I will probably just revert to using the stock

Eaton 1100.

I totally agree with you, that just spinning a hydro faster on the input will kill them faster than anything.

Most of them have a 4000 max.rpm limit, I would want to be well below that limit.

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Skipper

I run mine at well over 4000. No problem yet. Wont recommend it though, as I can not speak to longevity, but the first 100 hours has gone thru perfectly.

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BearPro
On 7/8/2022 at 9:35 PM, Skipper said:

I run mine at well over 4000. No problem yet. Wont recommend it though, as I can not speak to longevity, but the first 100 hours has gone thru perfectly.

How much of a speed increase did you get?

Eaton 1100 hydro?

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Skipper

Speed increase was proportional to rpm, Yes, Eaton 1100. Works much better in low rpm this way too. But again, I can not recommend it, as it is outside of spec! Mine had over 1200 hours on it at least. (from 84) and I have raised rpm to initial app 4000 to now app 4200, and been running with this for about 160 hours total now. Switched to 0-w40 to give better flow when cold too. Also helped a lot on initial lag, wich is now gone.

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