So, I put a M16 in a 310…

[AHS 1,524]

 I stuck the M16 into the chassis of an 88 310. So the 310 didn’t have a voltage regulator and the M16 did. A Magnum motor will have the 5 plug that plugs in right out of the motor to the chassis….. are any of these voltage regulated or are they all the same? Can someone give me a pin out of the 5 terminals, please?

[953 nut 59,252]

If your engine is from a Wheel Horse and spec # is 711523 I think it should be plug and play as far as the wiring goes with the exception of the charging system. In the drawing below (310 on left and 316 on right) I have moved the Green lighting wire down to join the hour meter and volt meter. Also your white wire that had joined the green wire now should go directly to the "R" terminal on the ignition switch. Those two changes should be all that is needed

[clueless 3,181]

Not sure what your asking, is the m16 from a wheel horse? Both my WH magnums have only two wires coming from the engine a violet color one from the regulator and a white from the coil.

 

[953 nut 59,252]

6 minutes ago, clueless said:

Not sure what your asking, is the m16 from a wheel horse? Both my WH magnums have only two wires coming from the engine a violet color one from the regulator and a white from the coil.

 

Should be two wires from the oil sentry switch to its relay. The connector is a five pin but only four are used. The colors change at the plug      not too sure why they had to do that to us. The 310 may or may not have the oil sentry depending on the year.

[AHS 1,524]

@953 nut It does have the oil sentry switch, so that’s two wires out the 4.  It has the volt meter and it worked, (right up to 12V). The only thing when I turn the key to ‘start’ the oil light comes on, and it doesn’t start. Is that normal for the oil light to come on? 

[953 nut 59,252]

8 minutes ago, AHS said:

I turn the key to ‘start’ the oil light comes on, and it doesn’t start. Is that normal for the oil light to come on?

Perhaps @gwest_ca can shed some more light on this. 

[AHS 1,524]

On 3/25/2022 at 8:16 PM, 953 nut said:

Should be two wires from the oil sentry switch to its relay. The connector is a five pin but only four are used. The colors change at the plug      not too sure why they had to do that to us. The 310 may or may not have the oil sentry depending on the year.

Two wires are the oil sentry. One wire is the coil pack. The other wire goes into the engine somewheres. Ok, I’m thinking it may be a the clutch switch, or the PTO.

[953 nut 59,252]

The white wire going into the engine shroud on the M-10 would be your electrical feed for lights and charging. On the M-16 the same white wire will come from the voltage regulator, go behind the flywheel shroud and on to the five pin connector. The PTO wiring is part of the chassis wiring and doesn't enter the engine.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,391]

On 3/26/2022 at 7:45 AM, AHS said:

@953 nut It does have the oil sentry switch, so that’s two wires out the 4.  It has the volt meter and it worked, (right up to 12V). The only thing when I turn the key to ‘start’ the oil light comes on, and it doesn’t start. Is that normal for the oil light to come on? 

Sounds like the low oil switch and relay are doing their job - preventing the starter from working which puts the light on to indicate where the problem is.

I would drain the oil. Then remove the spark plug wire to prevent the engine from running and see if the starter will activate. If it does not activate and the light still comes on time to service the low oil switch.

 

If it does run the starter the wiring needs to be changed to suit the installation. The low oil switch can be configured for normally open or normally closed contacts depending which way is up.

 

The magnet in the low oil switch may be loaded with metal filings and require cleaning. Follow these instructions so you do not damage the switch.

 

[AHS 1,524]

@gwest_ca ok! Wow, I had no idea! It’s seems like WH/Toro would choose either N/O or N/C. From the right side of the tractor, I don’t get it… unless the are “two floaters” 

[biged77 113]

All of my magnums M10, M14, M16 have the N/C on top like the service bulletin says.  If you just want to run the engine to check everything else you could first check the oil level then disconnect the dark blue wire going to the oil sentry relay.  That would disable the relay and allow the engine to start (assuming all safety interlocks are satisfied).

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,391]

I think Wheel Horse used the NC position on all models. That means the switch not in oil the float is down and the switch contacts are closed preventing the starter from operating.

 

If the switch is rotated 180 degrees it becomes a NO switch. Some manufacturers used this combination. Mentioned it only so you could verify if the switch is operating correctly or not and if it is positioned to operate correctly.

 

[AHS 1,524]

On 3/27/2022 at 9:26 PM, biged77 said:

All of my magnums M10, M14, M16 have the N/C on top like the service bulletin says.  If you just want to run the engine to check everything else you could first check the oil level then disconnect the dark blue wire going to the oil sentry relay.  That would disable the relay and allow the engine to start (assuming all safety interlocks are satisfied).

Ok, I got it now!  😀