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Ajbass60

520H cranks, but no spark.

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Ajbass60

Just picked up a 95 520H, used for about an hour before bringing home. Backing off trailer it died and has no spark or battery to the coil. Any suggestions? 

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Maxwell-8

@Ajbass60 maybe a bad safety switch?

Edited by Maxwell-8

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Ajbass60

Will the safety switch stop the starting or the cranking?

 

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gwest_ca

 

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lynnmor
14 minutes ago, Ajbass60 said:

Will the safety switch stop the starting or the cranking?

 

 

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

Yep, there are several safety switches so review the guide linked above.  If after doing your checking, report back with any questions.

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Ajbass60

I'm able to run a jumper from bat to plus side of coil and it fires right up.

 

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rmaynard

Check under your seat for a safety switch. That's the most common switch to be the culprit. The circuit starts at the battery, through a 25 amp fuse to the ignition switch. The power goes through the seat switch to a kill relay coil. If you are out of the seat, or the switch fails, you have no power to the spark coil.

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Achto
1 hour ago, Ajbass60 said:

Will the safety switch stop the starting or the cranking?

 

Check your fuses. There is one fuse that if it blows it will cause there to be no spark. Had this on my 520 once. I have never found out why mine blew, I replaced it and the issue has never returned.:confusion-confused:

 

If the fuses are good try running them in and out of the holder a few times to get a better contact on them.

 

And :WRS:

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, Ajbass60 said:

Will the safety switch stop the starting or the cranking?

 

As noted, going over the wiring diagram will help you out. The first time I did this I printed a couple copies and then used a highlighter to trace the circuits I wanted to check out.

Also cleaning any fuse contacts and making sure the fuse aren't blown.

 

The seat switch plus the motion control switch shut off the engine if operator leaves seat while motion is engaged.

The PTO switch prevents cranking if the PTO is engaged.

 

You might be tempted to try bypassing these switches, but personally I always recommend repairs to keep them functional. It only takes a moment of inattention to do something you'll regret later.

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Ajbass60

Just to clarify, EX: if you're not in the seat, the engine will turn over, but not start? I would think that it wouldn't  crank over? My seat switch stuck in the down position. Although, I did look at the bottom of the fuse block and have a  burn spot on the block for the red wire. 

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rmaynard
2 minutes ago, Ajbass60 said:

Just to clarify, EX: if you're not in the seat, the engine will turn over, but not start? I would think that it wouldn't  crank over? My seat switch stuck in the down position. Although, I did look at the bottom of the fuse block and have a  burn spot on the block for the red wire. 

 

I could be wrong about the 520. On my 416-H, I can be out of the seat and the engine will crank as long as the parking brake is set, or my foot is on the neutral/brake pedal. But it will not start in that condition. If the engine is running, I can set the parking brake and actually get off the tractor and it will continue to run. But, if the PTO is engaged, everything comes to a stop. What's different is that I have a foot pedal and not a motion control lever, so the wiring is slightly different since the neutral safety switch is in a different location. 

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, Ajbass60 said:

if you're not in the seat, the engine will turn over, but not start?

Operator Engine Status PTO Motion Control Result
Seated or
Not seated
Not running Disengaged Neutral
(or park brake on)
Cranks and Starts
Seated or
Not seated
Not running Disengaged Not Neutral No Crank
No Start
Seated or
Not seated
Not running Engaged Any No Crank
No Start
Not seated Running Engaged Any Engine shuts down

 

@rmaynard's example of holding the brake down, or locking it, applies to 520 because doing that forces the motion control to neutral

 

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Ajbass60

I'll 1st need to repair this, sometimes the lights go out and restore by wiggling fuse. Also, will take a look at rest of wiring.

20211018_153819.jpg

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Handy Don
24 minutes ago, Ajbass60 said:

I'll 1st need to repair this, sometimes the lights go out and restore by wiggling fuse. Also, will take a look at rest of wiring.

20211018_153819.jpg

Yep. Several members are fans of replacing this with individual water resistant in-line fuse holders. So far, I've been able to keep my block clean and usable.

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lynnmor
12 hours ago, Ajbass60 said:

I'll 1st need to repair this, sometimes the lights go out and restore by wiggling fuse. Also, will take a look at rest of wiring.

 

 

You can get a DORMAN 85668 fuse block for as little as $3.03 from places like RockAuto.

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Ajbass60

Hi, I did order a replacement bare fuse block and one with leads. I also order a new 9 pin connector with pig tails. Will let you know, once replaced.

 

Thanks.    

Edited by Ajbass60

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Handy Don
24 minutes ago, Ajbass60 said:

Hi, I did order a replacement bare fuse block and one with leads. I also order a new 9 pin connector with pig tails. Will let you know, once replacing.

 

Thanks.    

It is another modest investment, but a crimper designed for the connectors you've ordered helps assure good connections

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Ajbass60

Hi, the yellow wire in the 9 in connectors was not passing voltage. wiggled and now have my voltage through connector. fired right up.  I have a replacement and will replace. 

 

Thanks 

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