C-Series hoods heat damage from muffler.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

Guys,

 

I find myself in a situation. I have a completely restored C161 8-speed that needs a hood. The original hood has rust through in the heat affected zone. Thoughts on repair? I’m in a pinch and was thinking Louvers. Like the stainless ones from a boat. I could cut it out and re-weld in new metal but it would not be pretty. You can’t tig weld that much thin metal without distorting everything. Thoughts? Someone must have repaired damage like this before. Pics for reference.

[ebinmaine 63,081]

I'm all for repair on everything possible. There's a line to be drawn in certain situations. 

 

That vintage of tractor is pretty common. 

Was it me I'd get a good replacement. 

You could ask around on here. 

Also could call Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA. 

 

I had a C111 hood at one point but I think it's gone north with @Oldskool Mike. 

 

Maybe @AMC RULES Craig has one? Or someone else who's going to @stevebo's Meet n Greet next week in CT. BBT and I will be there. 

I'd be happy to play transport for you. 

 

 

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

Mine all have that kinda damage.

 

Sanding and bondo?

[AMC RULES 36,945]

[JPWH 5,299]

Maybe a thin aluminum sheet on backside of hood for a heat sink then epoxy for repair of damaged area.

[Retired Wrencher 4,876]

Bob how fussy are you on looks? There aftermarket mufflers that would work if you can not find what you are looking for. Nice job on the restore.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

6 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Mine all have that kinda damage.

 

Sanding and bondo?

Don’t think bondo would withstand the heat or be strong enough.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

5 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Interesting, just watched a project farm video on epoxy pastes. This may have possibilities. Thanks.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

5 hours ago, Retierd Wrencher said:

Bob how fussy are you on looks? There aftermarket mufflers that would work if you can not find what you are looking for. Nice job on the restore.

Pretty fussy on this one. I may never restore another like this. A lot of work…

[Retired Wrencher 4,876]

19 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Pretty fussy on this one. I may never restore another like this. A lot of work…

I did two in my younger days so I know what you mean. Now I just clean them up and use Marvel on them.

[Lee1977 6,214]

20 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Interesting, just watched a project farm video on epoxy pastes. This may have possibilities. Thanks.

I've used BJ Weld similar, It works but get it close to level as it's hell to sand out. There wasn't enough room left for the muffler on the shaker mount tractors with the old style hoods. A stack might be the best sulation.

[c-series don 7,786]

I think a good body shop could easily weld that hole shut for you.The day after I restored my C-121 Auto the paint bubbled in that exact spot after a five minute ride. I almost lost my mind as it was also the day before the big show. I just let it cool and slowly sprayed water on it with a spray bottle. I personally showed this to Cecil Pond at the show( that’s me, him and his wife Betty in the picture to the left right after our conversation) he looked at it and said “Well that’s not a very good design now is it ?!” I ended up making a heat shield around the muffler and repainting the lower portion of the hood. 

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

Took it for a ride tonight, hood less of course. Pic of muffler in the dark. Plenty hot!

[Handy Don 10,589]

Running that carb a bit lean there, dontcha think?

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

8 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Running that carb a bit lean there, dontcha think?

I really don’t think so. It is set per manual and runs well. That was a run at WOT around my block at night. I’ll check actual temp later with my heat gun. BTW, rich settings and retarded timing are the primary cause of overheated exhaust headers. Those conditions can allow unburnt fuel to burn in the pipe and generate excessive heat. On another note my Harley’s headers glow like that in the dark as well. I have had it professionally tuned with a Vance and Hines race tuner specifically to richen up the air fuel ratio. And they do it idling! I’ll double check everything to be sure however.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

My C161 auto after three minutes at half throttle at night. Conclusion, the red glow is normal. My 161 Auto is my best running tractor by far. And I’ve never touched the carb.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

What do you guys think of this solution? I’ll cut out the bad metal, paint and install this SS Louvre? Might help from future paint burning off too. I’m all about originality but honestly this was a terrible design…. 

[c-series don 7,786]

I too am all about originality but I kinda like your idea! 

[tarcoleo 119]

An aluminum inner liner was suggested earlier.  Make it stainless and

arrange it to clip on the edge so only a small part shows.  If it only

clips on, it would be removable for shows, etc.

 

How about attaching a copper baffle inside the cowl held in place

with a strong speaker magnet that would be invisible.  Copper

because it would avoid hot-spotting.

 

Edited October 25, 2021 by tarcoleo
Another suggesstion

[ebinmaine 63,081]

45 minutes ago, c-series don said:

I too am all about originality but I kinda like your idea! 

Same here.  

[tarcoleo 119]

How about attaching a copper baffle inside the cowl held in place

with a strong speaker magnet that would be invisible.  Copper

because it would avoid hot-spotting.

 

[wallfish 15,918]

Doubtful the louver will do anything for protecting the new paint. I'm voting heat shield the muffler or go with a newer style horizontal muffler and fix the hood. Those use heat shields too but the moving air from the engine does a lot to carry away the heat. ? Tack a piece of metal on the back and fill the hole? You got this far on her so don't take the easy route now on the most prominent part of the whole tractor!

[76c12091520h 3,289]

Fix the hood properly and attach a piece of self adhesive "Dynamat" brand heat resistant material to the inside of the hood. You will be able to put your hand on it after running the tractor on a 90 degree day.

[chip61 655]

I'm thinking the larger diameter muffler on the C**1 tractors with the shaker plate had more issue with this than the older C**0 tractors with the smaller muffler. I cleaned and painted the hood on my C141 and installed a new decal and within a few hours had the same issue.(decal was already distorted and hood rusted there when I got tractor). I replaced that muffler with a smaller diameter muffler from a C100 and that seemed to stop the blistering paint from getting any worse. None of my older tractors with the smaller muffler have that problem.

I feel your pain Don, it really hurt my feelings when I noticed the paint just starting to blister. Mine is nothing fancy, just wanted the sheet metal to look a little better-your tractor looks great!

[dmoore 687]

I want to resurrect this thread concerning paint blistering on  these C series tractor hoods.  I, like most of you have experienced this situation over the years. After having all my metal professionally painted this spring I wasn't about to let it happen again. I did some research and found this company online. After sending them several photo's of the tractor and problem area they suggested using their self adhesive heat barrier tape. They mfg several different products to control heat. So for $19.46 mailed I bought the 12" x 12" section. Cost effective enough right? It came in Friday and I installed it Saturday. I had enough to do inside of the grill of which I had problems with in the past from the muffler heat. Mind you nothing like the side of the hood but discoloration none the same. I have attached a couple of pics for your view ing pleasure. The part number I ordered is #13500.