Hi All, It's time for me to sell the D-250 I've had for the last 8 years. It’s useable as is, or would be a great project bundle for further restoration.
I am selling a large package: the running tractor, a refurbished snowblower (48”), parts snowblower, mower deck (60”), tiller (40”), front plow blade (60”), Cat 0 3-Point Hitch with adjustable top link, WH 3-Point tool bar, wheel weights and tire chains. Also included is an extensive part collection, nearly a second tractor worth. I will include the original manuals, an original 1976 sales brochure, and repair manuals for the tractor and the engine. I made electronic copes of all of the above, and stored the paper copies to prevent further wear. This is one of the most complete D-250 tractor/attachment bundles I’ve seen.
Some highlights from the available parts: Frame rails, extra engine, water pump, extra transaxle, extra gears, including worm gears (stored in oil bath), Front wheel set, carburetor, carb rebuild kit, rebuildable original radiator, extra radiator overflow bottle, rebuilt alternator, new voltage regulator (I was planning to change over to an alternator setup from the generator), new in package Renault engine seals, new PTO seals, ignition maintenance parts. There are also many panels, frame pieces, cables, levers, tubes (lines) and hardware in the collection.
The tractor engine runs smooth. There are around 1050 original hours on it; It’s a 1976 edition. Everything works, except the dash lights and the rear lights (disconnected b/c of fender). I just haven't sorted out the wiring, but it is all there. Headlights are good and working, as are all of the gears and levers. The four tires are nearly new Carlisle Multi Trac, with nubs still on them. The rear tires have been filled (ballasted) with Rim Guard for extra traction. The hydraulic pump, front PTO clutch and brakes operate but could use a tune up. I’ve used it for mowing and snowblowing on hills, driveway and around my land. I don’t have an original WH seat. The snowblower was rebuilt a few years back, and assembled with all new hardware and bearings. The mower deck gearbox was professionally serviced recently, and has a new set of blades with only a half dozen mows. The rear fender needs a repair, but all pieces are available. The plow and tiller are due for restoration. The Points, Condenser and rotor have all been replaced and tuned in. The battery is good. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel pump and changed out the plugs within the last 30 hours. The replacement radiator is from a Kawasaki engine; it was installed with new hoses. There are also new custom hydraulic hoses and a new hydraulic lift cylinder.
Here's a video of me mowing, this past summer.
Transporting this haul in one trip will require a pickup truck and a large trailer.
By the jeep driver
My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred.
While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move.
So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole?
Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
My 1999 270H with 48” deck is having an issue getting power to PTO. Checked PTO with jumper to battery and it worked fine and I’ve actually been cutting grass using the jumper for awhile. I checked power from PTO switch to PTO and there is none. I checked PTO switch and it appeared OK but I replaced it anyway and still no power to PTO. Then checked brown/tan wire leading to switch and there is none. Could the issue be the NMIR module and is there a good way to check it. If bad, where is the best place to get a replacement and do other brands/models have NMIR a modules I can use. Also, would suppling battery power directly to PTO switch and bypassing NMIR result in switch working.
I bought a 3 point hitch from someone on Face book but the 3 point hitch lift assembly bearings were not included.
The are NLA.
Does any know a supplier for these or have two they are willing to sell?
I looked at McMaster and could not find one with the sizes needed.
The part# is 8340 in the 3 point hitch diagram below.
Need some help. My 800 Special has an electric PTO. It is not working. Checked Ohms - nothing. My questions are 1) how does the PTO come off and 2) can they be rebuilt? I took the bolt out that I thought holds it on but no luck. Must be something more?