kpinnc 18,633 #102 Posted May 25 You might wanna bungee that tank somewhere. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #103 Posted May 25 21 minutes ago, kpinnc said: You might wanna bungee that tank somewhere. I can't help if you ain't got no sense of adventure. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,706 #104 Posted May 26 (edited) Just kidding @ebinmaine You did want a HOT rod.... 1 hour ago, kpinnc said: You might wanna bungee that tank somewhere. 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: I can't help if you ain't got no sense of adventure. Edited May 26 by MainelyWheelhorse 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #105 Posted May 27 This evening we finished cleaning the cable ends. I built a new positive cable from solenoid to starter. Degreased the starter and engine block where the cables attach. Installed a NOS Cole Hersee solenoid from my parts department. Added a new battery hold down. Used a primer bulb to dump a little gasoline into the carburetor bowl through the upper vent. At that point the ole beast started right up.... and the alternator started smoking. No worries there. I knew that was a high probability. I have a new HD alternator set aside with a new wiring harness. The truck is setting in the front yard waiting to be towed to the repair shop tomorrow. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #106 Posted June 6 Went to see Libby's Service Station where my truck is... Very positive so far. He's using it as a spare time project in between other things, which is exactly what I hoped he would do. Rick has laid out and organized all the parts, and has some of the initial assembly done. He says it all looks OK so far without having attempted actual installation. I'm bringing them a full set of rear brake shoes, springs, and hardware Monday afternoon. We both figured he might as well go right from wheel to wheel with ALL new parts. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #107 Posted Wednesday at 11:44 PM Today was another shining example that there are still decent people in this world. While setting for lunch I got a phonecall from Rick Libby. Rear axle done. Truck ready to be picked up so I can install rear lamps and splash guards along with whatever other State Inspection work I find it needs. I said, "Do you have the dollar amount?" Now - let's go over what was done. A BUNCH of cleaning and rust removal. ALL NEW PARTS installed in the entire axle. Center carrier. Change from open Ford to Auburn posi. New bearings pressed in. New ring and pinion. All special tools and knowledge type work. Also: New brakes including all hardware. New U joints. Transfer case rear seal. We have no actual information on how much time he put in. I'm 99% sure it was at LEAST 8 to 10 hours over the 4 weeks he had the truck. Honestly... could be double that. Easy! I was seriously figuring on a minimum count of 20 hours. He billed me for FOUR hours. I had to ask twice if he was OK with that. Turns out.... he was using my old Ford as therapy. Nostalgia. Enjoyment. So it's scheduled to be towed back up here tomorrow morning. Next steps will be rear lights and swapping the alternator type. This diagram is for my own notes. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,706 #108 Posted yesterday at 02:29 AM Cool, @ebinmaine that’s great that worked out like that for you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #109 Posted 9 hours ago Looking at the end of the rear frame it's basically a C channel. It measures just under 6" tall. Width is maybe 2 inches? I want to extend the length approximately 13", 14". I also want to make the steel wider top and bottom for better support of the trailer hitch. I'm thinking something like this 4 x 6 box steel might work. I can tack it in but I'd have a professional welder do the final attachments. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 16,777 #110 Posted 9 hours ago I’m no expert, but don’t truck frames get specific treatment for hardness and ductility? I’d want to be sure an “extender” really knows the ins and outs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,290 #111 Posted 8 hours ago 1 minute ago, Handy Don said: I’m no expert, but don’t truck frames get specific treatment for hardness and ductility? I’d want to be sure an “extender” really knows the ins and outs. Heavy truck frames, yes. They can NOT be welded. This frame is not heat treated so welding is fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,980 #112 Posted 4 hours ago 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Heavy truck frames, yes. They can NOT be welded. This frame is not heat treated so welding is fine. Idle thoughts on this subject: This probably depends on where the weld is on the frame. Welds are stress concentration features. They create hard spots, notches, and divots. If the weld is located in a low stress area of the frame, probably no problems. Truck frames are subjected to unpridictable, varying, and cyclic loads - the sort of loading condition that fatigue cracks can grow in. If the weld is located in a high stress area on the frame, it could provide a spot for a fatigue crack to start. Grinding the weld smooth and/or shot peening it will reduce the chances of a crack initiation site. I've never done any analysis work on frames, so I don't know where the high stress areas are. I'll guess that they are at the attachment points for the suspension and maybe at the attachment points for the cross members. A lot of long box pickup frames have been cut down into short box frames. Maybe something to learn from this process? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites