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ohiofarmer

c-160 running lean

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ohiofarmer

  Well, here we go. I bought it last fall, and the beastie is the best starting tractor that i have. Just ran like a dream. Used it for three hours with no issues and it mowed and pulled the heavy roller like a champ.   Today was not the same. When i had to lean it to the side, it did not like the ditch, and left lean mowed better than right lean. So when i pulled the spark plug, the backfiring was definately caused by a lean condition. This suggests a carb float issue, but to be fair, the issue kept getting worse. Spark plugs do not lie as this one was light gray..  i guess its time to clean the carb, check the spark strength and check for gasket leaks around the carb.

  Plenty of spare steeds around here in Eight, Ten, Twelve, Fourteen, as well as the 160. The funny thing about this is the inside of the exhaust was pretty black before. I do not want to risk this engine, so I might just buy a new carb as i need a 14/16 carb around here anyway.

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

new carb

Please don't buy an import. 

 

Larger size engines aren't fond of them. 

 

Get a used one and rebuild it. 

 

Kohler rebuild kit part number is  2575701S.

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ohiofarmer
3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Please don't buy an import. 

 

Larger size engines aren't fond of them. 

 

Get a used one and rebuild it. 

 

Kohler rebuild kit part number is  2575701S.

     One of the fourteens came with an import carb that the PO had not installed. She started and idled great. But today, under load, the C-160 did not like whatever was on it. When i was checking carbs on the internet, some of the sellers are selling larger throat carbs as was installed on the fourteen/sixteen, and some not. the trouble I see with some of the original carbs I have is the throttle shaft that hooks to the governor is wobbled out and sloppy. there is probably a fix for that, but i don't remember where it is mentioned. Anyway, I will take off the bowl and check for dirt.

Edited by ohiofarmer

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JohnD

You might try replacing your fuel filter.  I was surprised the difference that made in starting time on mine; maybe a better flow will be less lean? 

 

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ebinmaine
15 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

throttle shaft

Very easy repair on most carbs. 

 

I've done several. 

 

There are washers available from McMaster-Carr that surround the shaft and solve the problem. 

 

Send it me and I'll take right care of it for you. 

Just don't tell @WHX24 Jim. 

I don't want him thinking I was being nice to anyone.....

:lol:

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tunahead72

:text-yeahthat:

 

@ohiofarmer  What Eric just said is true.  I've done a couple of mine recently, no problem (assuming your carb has a counterbore where the shaft enters the carb) and I can tell from some of your posts over the years here that you're a better mechanic than me.  The washers he mentioned are available from Ace Hardware as Hillman part number 58087 (you'll need two), and you'll probably also need new throttle plate screws and lock washers, and a little blue loctite.  There are several threads that address this repair, I'll check back tomorrow and give you some specific links if you don't find anything before then.

 

For now, you can certainly clean out the bowl like you mentioned, and I would clean the needles while you're at it.  Can you tell if this is a Kohler/Carter carb, or a Walbro?  The carb kits are different.

 

 

 

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, tunahead72 said:

you'll probably also need new throttle plate screws and lock washers, and a little blue loctite

I've had carbs that the top linkage came off so I didn't need to remove the butterfly. Much easier if possible. 

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Rob R

Agree with the comments on the Chinese carbs biggest issue I have found is the floats are almost always not adjusted correctly and the needle valve tabs are very thin and easily change if not set exactly correct level. So count me IN as a NON fan. 

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tunahead72
4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I've had carbs that the top linkage came off so I didn't need to remove the butterfly. Much easier if possible. 

 

Hey Eric, I've seen that mentioned here somewhere, but I can't picture what it looks like exactly.  Can you post a photo or two when you get a chance?

 

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pfrederi

If you have this clamp on throttle linkage the job is super easy...

 

Loosen the screw clamping the linkage to the butterfly shaft and it pulls up and off

 

carb.JPG

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, tunahead72 said:

 

Hey Eric, I've seen that mentioned here somewhere, but I can't picture what it looks like exactly.  Can you post a photo or two when you get a chance?

 

@pfrederi

Thanks for the picture Paul.

That's exactly what I was talking about right there.

 

 

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ohiofarmer

 It runs better now. The main jet was restricted by some deposit or other. The bowl itself was not horrible. I tested it out in some taller grass and she pulled hard under load. I can't guarantee if the carb is OEM or not since i just got the tractor last fall.

   I have been pretty busy trying to get a 7.3 ford diesel to start .so that is why it took some time to reply. I think i have it figured out that the ignition actuator rod is broken and that is why the engine will not crank --like having a broken ignition switch.. The fact that it will crank just by using a jump wire at the solenoid in the engine bay pretty much confirms this. This is an older unit ,a 1991 non turbo model

Edited by ohiofarmer

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