looking for new carburetor or rebuild kit for Kohler KT17QS 24363 .
I am very new to finding old tractors so I am not 100% sure if I got a deal or not. Today at an estate sale I was able to pick up a Work Horse GT-1100 for $65. It needs a lot of clean up, and as of right now I am not 100% sure of the working condition. It did come with the snow thrower attachment, and even though it isn't pictured, I also got the mowing deck as well. Not sure what these are worth, but any info would be much appreciated! I have attached some photo in its current condition. Thanks!
Working on a 1969 Raider 12 for a friend.
As far as I can tell, the engine is the correct one for this tractor. It was missing the entire air cleaner, so the owner got an air cleaner housing, but I have found that it will not fit on this carb.
The mounting holes on the air cleaner base are 1 7/8" center to center for both the horizontal and vertical holes.
The carb has been roughed up a little and the 2 horizontal holes have been "wallowed" out and a piece of the aluminum casting has actually been broke off and some type of plastic filler was used to "hide" the damage. Can't do much to repair this as the choke shaft rotates here.
The vertical holes on the carb are 1 5/8" center to center.
Can anyone shed any light on this? Is the carb for older K301 engine different than the carbs for say a middle 70's K301?
I think I will just pull this carb and install one off of another 12 hp that already has the air cleaner base on it!
This is a question in two parts
Part 1: What is the recommended RPM for operation of the Onan 220? I know that sounds obvious, to many of you but not to me, and I know it depends upon what attachment you are using and what the load is.
Here's where I'm at: Throttle all the way up, I max out at about 3200, then it creeps back to around 3000. almost all I do is mow with th 48" deck, Seems that a higher RPM will give a cleaner cut, when I really push the throttle up, and hold it in position I can get it to about 3500 but I have to keep my hand on it or it will creep back. I fiddled a little with the linkage and then I stopped thinking that the governor needed to be properly set.
Part 2: I am not lazy, I did a search on this and couldn't get the answer, If it is already posted somewhere, just say so. One of the things I like about you guys is that you don't pounce on us for asking questions that may have been answered somewhere else already. I belong to an auto motive form and those guys are ruthless, you are not. Back to the question. I can find and have downloaded just about every manual I can find that applies to this machine and I cannot a "Repair" manual for the tractor. I can find service manuals but nothing that is step by step repair like a shop manual would. I am missing something?
Part 3: Lacking anything else, can someone at least tell me if I need to make adjustments to the governor and if so tell me how I can find out how to do it?
I thought I had CLEANED and degunked everything until I started reading more closely the posts and photos about chaff building up behind the flywheel and blocking airflow to the rear cylinder. Even though I could do a visual with a flashlight and it looked clean, I though I better check anyway. I took the "tin" off and everything was surprisingly clean so I decided not to push my luck and bolted it back together. At least now I know its moving air as it should. Thanks for the info on that.
I have attacked a picture or two of that process and a (not so good) view of the throttle governor linkages.