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Oldskool

A Horse named Hiram

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Pullstart
6 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

How did you utilize the zip ties?


I’d suggest trying to use them inside out... but EB’s idea is better!

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ebinmaine

Ok ok ok ok I mightta made that up. 

 

You put the new material in the metal brake band and "clamp" it overnight with the zipties. 

 

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Oldskool
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I had Trina hold the lining in place and ziptied her hand to it. 

So i take it you used the zip ties only to hold the liner while the silicone cured?

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Pullstart
1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

So i take it you used the zip ties only to hold the liner while the silicone cured?

 

hold it to the outer band, All the way around the circumference of the assembly.  It’ll be a bunch of single loops :handgestures-thumbupright:

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ebinmaine

Yessir. 

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rjg854

I had no problem using Gorilla glue, after I glued the liner to the metal strapping, I reinstalled it and snugged up the band to the drum and let it cure for 24 hours.  It's been there all winter and still holding well with no loose areas.  I suppose I got lucky then using Gorilla glue. :confusion-shrug:

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Oldskool
18 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

I had no problem using Gorilla glue, after I glued the liner to the metal strapping, I reinstalled it and snugged up the band to the drum and let it cure for 24 hours.  It's been there all winter and still holding well with no loose areas.  I suppose I got lucky then using Gorilla glue. :confusion-shrug:

It seems alot of people have good luck with it. I'm just one of the unlucky ones I think.

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Oldskool

Thanks to a donor mower out back I almost have a set of tie rods. Picking up another end later today. 

20210329_134838.jpg

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Oldskool

  Knowing the belt gaurd is integral to proper clutching,  what is the optimum distance from the bottom of the belt to the belt gaurd?

  What is optimum distance for the belt gaurd tabs to belt at the engine pulley. Seems mine may be a bit tight. 

  

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ebinmaine

On the bottom side you want to be fairly close. My tractors are maybe a 16th to 1/8 in.

 

 

Those tabs at the engine pulley, right around the same.

 

What's the issue you're having?

 

If the belt is sagging at the top while you're clutching, you may need to put a brace across the top of the belt guard to keep it from doing so. I had to do that on the 1267/1287 that is now in the hands of Steve @OldWorkHorse as a 1257

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Oldskool
57 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

On the bottom side you want to be fairly close. My tractors are maybe a 16th to 1/8 in.

 

 

Those tabs at the engine pulley, right around the same.

 

What's the issue you're having?

 

If the belt is sagging at the top while you're clutching, you may need to put a brace across the top of the belt guard to keep it from doing so. I had to do that on the 1267/1287 that is now in the hands of Steve @OldWorkHorse as a 1257

I altered one of the belt gaurds I got from you to proper length for this build to find out it is now a bit to short in height with the belt on. So I have to rectify it. Didnt want to get to far away by over compensating. The finger tabs on the other end were bent so wasnt sure of that distance either . So no real issue yet. Thanks for the input.

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Oldskool

@ebinmaine is there any mounting tabs on the bottom that attach it to the frame? Or is it just held on by the engine bolt and console screws?

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ebinmaine

Should be one about in the center of the guard too

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Oldskool
22 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Should be one about in the center of the guard too

Is that what the 5/8 hole is for in the lower middle?

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, Oldskool said:

Is that what the 5/8 hole is for in the lower middle?

Should line up to a small (L?) Bracket on the frame. 

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Oldskool

I did get a bit closer to done today. The belt gaurd is re-rebuilt. The exhaust is welded. Picked up some much needed odd hardware pieces.

Is the lock ring that seems to be on most Kohler exhausts at the head used on all threaded connections when running a stack? 

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Oldskool
Just now, ebinmaine said:

Should line up to a small (L?) Bracket on the frame. 

Ah. Ya no L bracket on this frame lol. I did manage to get it taken care of though

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

I did get a bit closer to done today. The belt gaurd is re-rebuilt. The exhaust is welded. Picked up some much needed odd hardware pieces.

Is the lock ring that seems to be on most Kohler exhausts at the head used on all threaded connections when running a stack? 

 

 

I only have a lock ring on an aluminum engine here. 

 

Cinnamon C160 stack is standard black iron pipe. 

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Oldskool
Just now, ebinmaine said:

 

 

I only have a lock ring on an aluminum engine here. 

 

Cinnamon C160 stack is standard black iron pipe. 

Well that just made things easier.

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ebinmaine

You may need to retighten after some run time. 

 

Also a good idea to support it somehow. 

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Oldskool
16 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You may need to retighten after some run time. 

 

Also a good idea to support it somehow. 

Can do, will do

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Oldskool

Getting a bit done today on Hiram. I had a chance to drill and thread some holes, built the battery hold down. Found a tank and made a strap for it and made an exhaust brace. Also it was time to write out a  check list. With alot of stuff down and not much finished it wa hard to keep track.

20210401_161231.jpg

20210401_171334.jpg

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Oldskool

The rain cap showed up today. So that was installed. It came with an extra (odd) part 

 

Also made some stirrups. I added a bit of a heel catch for when the wheelies happen.

20210403_171633.jpg

20210402_173145.jpg

20210402_173204.jpg

20210403_171708.jpg

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ebinmaine

Why the rubber freeze plug?

What was the rain cap designed for??

 

Can you please PM me the link for those caps?

 

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Oldskool
32 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Why the rubber freeze plug?

What was the rain cap designed for??

 

Can you please PM me the link for those caps?

 

I have no idea why that was in with the rain cap. It's a mystery.

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