David414 289 #1 Posted February 7, 2021 I have a complete tear down of a new to me 312-h and I am wondering, has anyone ever completely removed the PTO clutch lever from the hood stand? The parts diagram shows that the lever is two pieces? Is this a factory weld after insertion through the hood stand? Currently, the PTO lever is still attached to the hood stand. Is it possible to remove? Thanks, David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491 #2 Posted February 7, 2021 One may need to remove the grip and move the lever through the hole. Bushing 5 may be split to make room so the bend will pass through. Never had one apart. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blackhood Bill 720 #3 Posted February 7, 2021 Remove number 7, then remove 4 & 6 it comes right out easy peezy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,852 #4 Posted February 8, 2021 While your refurbishing it, consider replacing item 6 nylon bushing with a brass bushing. you can find one to fit from all those gray drawers at your ace or similar hardware store. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David414 289 #5 Posted February 8, 2021 16 hours ago, gwest_ca said: One may need to remove the grip and move the lever through the hole. Bushing 5 may be split to make room so the bend will pass through. Never had one apart. 16 hours ago, gwest_ca said: One may need to remove the grip and move the lever through the hole. Bushing 5 may be split to make room so the bend will pass through. Never had one apart. @Blackhood Bill Removed the grip and #3 grip ring, and slid handle through hole in hood stand. Piece of cake once you know what you're doing! Thanks for the help. @oliver2-44 I was thinking the same about the bushing. 👍 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blackhood Bill 720 #6 Posted February 8, 2021 @David414 No problem that’s what we do here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pollack Pete 2,273 #7 Posted February 8, 2021 I've rebushed a couple of those PTO levers with the original plastic bushings.They're a PITA But worth the trouble.I hate when those levers flop around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 10,586 #8 Posted February 8, 2021 54 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said: I've rebushed a couple of those PTO levers with the original plastic bushings.They're a PITA But worth the trouble.I hate when those levers flop around. I agree. The plastic is quiet and keeps the lever firmly where it belongs. On some '80's "H" tractors there is a matching lever on the other side for the hydro lift control. Same grip and bushing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,050 #9 Posted February 8, 2021 DAVID 414, having rebuilt a 3 of my pto levers , the most critical point is at # 6 inside bushing end. I typically add about 3/8 " of plastic and metal washers ,along with a silicone grease , making it very solid and smooth , just the oposet of its current setting. you can also add a 4 ga cable wire to the ground rail that this passes thru , letting you improve your engine grounding at a corner engine mount bolt. this what I did , also note , corner of 2 bolt flange bearing , on steering column , and heim joints added to lever ends. last photo showes cable ground to engine corner , and battery tender easy plug in , have this set up on my 3 horses, pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
David414 289 #10 Posted February 8, 2021 6 minutes ago, peter lena said: DAVID 414, having rebuilt a 3 of my pto levers , the most critical point is at # 6 inside bushing end. I typically add about 3/8 " of plastic and metal washers ,along with a silicone grease , making it very solid and smooth , just the oposet of its current setting. you can also add a 4 ga cable wire to the ground rail that this passes thru , letting you improve your engine grounding at a corner engine mount bolt. this what I did , also note , corner of 2 bolt flange bearing , on steering column , and heim joints added to lever ends. last photo showes cable ground to engine corner , and battery tender easy plug in , have this set up on my 3 horses, pete 6 minutes ago, peter lena said: DAVID 414, having rebuilt a 3 of my pto levers , the most critical point is at # 6 inside bushing end. I typically add about 3/8 " of plastic and metal washers ,along with a silicone grease , making it very solid and smooth , just the oposet of its current setting. you can also add a 4 ga cable wire to the ground rail that this passes thru , letting you improve your engine grounding at a corner engine mount bolt. this what I did , also note , corner of 2 bolt flange bearing , on steering column , and heim joints added to lever ends. last photo showes cable ground to engine corner , and battery tender easy plug in , have this set up on my 3 horses, pete Nicely done, good to know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,050 #11 Posted February 8, 2021 DAVID414 , I realize that what I have done , really freaks out a lot of people , but so often when correcting a problem there is THE OPPORTUNITY TO CORRECT AND IMPROVE ANOTHER ISSUE THAT IS RIGHT THERE , SO WHY NOT DO IT? heim joints in use over 5 years , no problems , engine ground to battery rail , eliminated wiring issues , steering column flange bearing , firmed up entire dash mount area , I also get really crazy on LUBRICATION ISSUES , that's another story , improve anything you want to , just my opinion , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
