Handy Don 13,426 #26 Posted January 18, 2021 It might not be an issue as you are doing LED all over and they don't draw much, but do re-read your manual and check the wiring diagram because the DC generator capacity on your engine may be only 1 or 1.5 amps and now you've added the lights as a draw with your re-wire in addition to the normal ignition and battery charging. On a lot of 10's and 12's the lights are normally connected to a separate AC Generator with no rectifier, hence your fast-responding LEDs would flicker while slow-responding incandescents wouldn't when connected that way. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,995 #27 Posted January 18, 2021 6 hours ago, Handy Don said: It might not be an issue as you are doing LED all over and they don't draw much, but do re-read your manual and check the wiring diagram because the DC generator capacity on your engine may be only 1 or 1.5 amps and now you've added the lights as a draw with your re-wire in addition to the normal ignition and battery charging. On a lot of 10's and 12's the lights are normally connected to a separate AC Generator with no rectifier, hence your fast-responding LEDs would flicker while slow-responding incandescents wouldn't when connected that way. Keeping in mind all our machines are older.... So there's 2 sets of charging in those engines? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,426 #28 Posted January 18, 2021 On this wiring diagram for some 1986 12's and 14's you can the dark green "Alt A.C. Output" for lighting is separate from the white "Alt D.C. Output" that powers the instruments, coil, and battery charging through a rectifier. I learned this when working on my '86 310-8 and was curious about why the lights and battery were not wired the same. I can't find right now an image of the stator layout that showed two separate sets of windings for the two separate charging systems and their amperage ratings--blast. From my limited exposure and research, the larger and later engines all had voltage regulators so all power was DC and, I believe, 15, 20, or 30 amps. The fastest way to check, is if (with standard wiring) the lights do not work unless the engine is running--then it is a separate A.C. generator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,382 #29 Posted January 18, 2021 The LED lights here will not work on the AC headlight circuit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,426 #30 Posted January 18, 2021 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: The LED lights here will not work on the AC headlight circuit It's a diode, so it'll work for one side of the A.C. curve, right? Hence, flicker. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,426 #31 Posted January 18, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Handy Don said: Earlier: "On this wiring diagram for some 1986 12's and 14's you can the dark green "Alt A.C. Output" for lighting is separate from the white "Alt D.C. Output" that powers the instruments, coil, and battery charging through a rectifier. " Adding this from the Kohler K241 Service Manual--here the WH diagram dark green is labeled yellow and WH diagram white is black. Other pages in same manual are for versions with fully regulated 10 amp charging circuits so it depends on the model. Edited January 18, 2021 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeninCT 451 #32 Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) Finally had it out in the dark. 👹 Edited January 27, 2021 by BeninCT 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,995 #33 Posted January 27, 2021 Now that's just SNAZZY 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #34 Posted January 27, 2021 2 hours ago, BeninCT said: dark I'd love to see an overall shot! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #35 Posted January 27, 2021 @BeninCT Is that a cable winch I spy on the front? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeninCT 451 #36 Posted January 27, 2021 18 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Now that's just SNAZZY It looks killer at night- key is to keep it up so yo don’t see the source just the light in the engine bay. Thx 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeninCT 451 #37 Posted January 27, 2021 5 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: @BeninCT Is that a cable winch I spy on the front? Yes Building a forklift attachment for it here lol. Trying to keep it light duty but it keeps getting heavier.... Plane Jane 310-8 but very clean. Thanks 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #38 Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) That's a real nice looking machine Ben! I wish my plow blade was that nice. The P.O. ran it to the ground. About an inch or so is ground off the bottom and more on one side. The frame is a little twisted, need to straighten that up. I've gotta get a piece welded back on and drilled for a new scraper bar. I also want to put 'mushrooms' on it so I don't dig the gravel drive and private road. I haven't yet looked at the thread about the FEL but I will now! The pic I would like to see is at night from a distance with the underhood LEDs lit up! @BeninCT Edited January 27, 2021 by Jeff-C175 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,995 #39 Posted January 27, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I also want to put 'mushrooms' on it so I don't dig the gravel drive and private road There's another type of shoe that you can use which is basically a piece of 2x4 steel stock that is cut diagonally and bent. @WVHillbilly520H Jeff could give you a little bit better description of that..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #40 Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: There's another type of shoe that you can use which is basically a piece of 2x4 steel stock that is cut diagonally and bent. @WVHillbilly520H Jeff could give you a little bit better description of that..... Not to hijack the thread... but real quick... Sounds like what I did to my snowblower. A 'ski' of sorts. But on the plow wouldn't it 'drag' sideways if you had the plow angled? I use sections of 2" gray PVC pipe over the scraper bar and also have a piece of horse stall rubber sammiched in between the blade and scraper bar now that's working fairly well but the PVC pipe tends to slide off the end if I go with angled plow. Mebbe later I'll take some pics and start another thread... so Ben can get his thread back. Edited January 27, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #41 Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Not to hijack the thread... but real quick... Sounds like what I did to my snowblower. A 'ski' of sorts. But on the plow wouldn't it 'drag' sideways if you had the plow angled? I use sections of 2" gray PVC pipe over the scraper bar and also have a piece of horse stall rubber sammiched in between the blade and scraper bar now that's working fairly well but the PVC pipe tends to slide off the end if I go with angled plow. Mebbe later I'll take some pics and start another thread... so Ben can get his thread back. They were offered from the factory in just re-engineered them for more adjustability... The lift one is mine the right one is factory. Blueprint as well but only if your blade has the factory carriageway bolt holes in the lower reinforcement. Edited January 27, 2021 by WVHillbilly520H 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,995 #42 Posted January 27, 2021 39 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Mebbe later I'll take some pics and start another thread I'd appreciate that. I haven't actually tried mine yet. Last couple years it's been cold enough before snow that I haven't needed to put them on... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BeninCT 451 #43 Posted January 28, 2021 @Jeff-C175 yak away man I enjoy it all. Got my plow from another forum member in CT for a fair price. I cheated a bit with some spray paint too.. guilty 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
