Charbs152 254 #1 Posted December 18, 2020 The c175 blew the snow like a bastard today, very happy with it...but.... Towards the end of snow blowing, I noticed the hydraulic lift was not holding the snowblower up. I’d lift it and 9 times out of 10 it would fall back down, and the cylinder was dripping some oil...what gives? Is it just a seal kit rebuild? Are the parts available? Any help appreciated. Thanks Video.mov Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD 145 #2 Posted December 18, 2020 How's your fluid level? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #3 Posted December 18, 2020 1 minute ago, JohnD said: How's your fluid level? Its full... or it was. i changed it with Mobil 1 10w-30 and a new filter right before winter Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex175 784 #4 Posted December 18, 2020 I am fairly certain there are rebuild kits out there, the big thing you will have to look at first is if your cylinder can be rebuilt. From my memory there are some cylinders that can be disassembled and rebuilt, and there are some that are welded. If you are noticing it actively leaking it sounds like you've found your problem, time for a rebuild or replace. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,715 #5 Posted December 18, 2020 Wheelhorse Parys and More sell cylinder rebuild kits. They also can rebuild welded cylinders. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #6 Posted December 18, 2020 4 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Wheelhorse Parys and More sell cylinder rebuild kits. They also can rebuild welded cylinders. That was my thought as well. Contact Lowell and Joette right away and they'll take care of it whether it needs rebuild or replacement. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #7 Posted December 18, 2020 9 hours ago, Alex175 said: I am fairly certain there are rebuild kits out there, the big thing you will have to look at first is if your cylinder can be rebuilt. From my memory there are some cylinders that can be disassembled and rebuilt, and there are some that are welded. If you are noticing it actively leaking it sounds like you've found your problem, time for a rebuild or replace. According to the parts list, the cylinder is rebuildable. I found a kit from wheel horse parts and more for $17... Now..whats required to remove in order to take the cylinder out? If anyone knows, id appreciate it. Id like to have a game plan because ill be working out in a cold, unheated shipping container! thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #8 Posted December 18, 2020 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: That was my thought as well. Contact Lowell and Joette right away and they'll take care of it whether it needs rebuild or replacement. i actually looked through my parts and realized i ordered a kit back in October.... must have had a gut feeling i guess LOL I am going to also get new hoses though...thats for the spring time though... right now im just looking to replace the seals.. Do you know what i have to do in order to remove the cylinder? I can figure it out with trial and error but having a game plan would be nice sicne ill be working out in the frigid cold. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #9 Posted December 18, 2020 I can't help you with a specific procedure but one thing I can tell you for sure is going to sound really odd but I've done it and it works... Get the largest tent, pop up, tarp and put it over the whole thing and it will keep the wind from biting you. if you use a tarp it'll be pretty dark under there so clip a work light to the steering wheel. If you have any kind of a makeshift heater that you can keep away from the plastic, all the better. Spend 15 minutes making yourself more comfortable and you may even decide that it's time to do the hoses because you're already going to have half the system apart and partially drained... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #10 Posted December 18, 2020 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I can't help you with a specific procedure but one thing I can tell you for sure is going to sound really odd but I've done it and it works... Get the largest tent, pop up, tarp and put it over the whole thing and it will keep the wind from biting you. if you use a tarp it'll be pretty dark under there so clip a work light to the steering wheel. If you have any kind of a makeshift heater that you can keep away from the plastic, all the better. Spend 15 minutes making yourself more comfortable and you may even decide that it's time to do the hoses because you're already going to have half the system apart and partially drained... Thanks for the tip... I will be in a shipping container/storage unit (thats my shed LOL) So the wind will be blocked but it is a frigid steel box...ill put my ice fishing heater in there and will make do.... luckily i have an Ariens snowblower for a backup so i am not in too much of a hurry and can wait until the single digits temps move out lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex175 784 #11 Posted December 18, 2020 First thing you need to do is access where the cylinder is. On the below picture you will see the side panel #13 circled in red, that needs to come off. I also highlighted the front of the foot board because the front of the cylinder is mounted to the bar that the foot board is attached to, so later on you will need to unbolt that as well to slide the cylinder off. Next step further below... The cylinder naturally has two connection points, the highlighted yellow section is where the previously mentioned rod is slid through, so you that will be the final step to taking it off. Before that you will need to remove the pin from the other end #4. I found that the cotter pins (#3) on mine were a PITA. I had to grind mine off in order to get the pin out, and then had to drill out the holes after. Hopefully yours isn't quite as stubborn. In the blue circle you will see a snap ring, this is what is removed after the cylinder is off in order to disassemble the cylinder itself to rebuild. I would also agree with @ebinmaine, while you have it apart now is the best time to replace the hoses as well if they are in need. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD 145 #12 Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) Youtube has some good videos on cylinder repair. Its good to watch a few and you'll see what the best practices are and where someone uses some really goofy techniques in a video. I recommend avoiding the latter. Edited December 20, 2020 by JohnD i speak de english. grammar, not so much. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #13 Posted December 19, 2020 18 minutes ago, JohnD said: really goofy techniques in a video. I recommend avoiding the latter I've tried a few. I agree. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #14 Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) On 12/18/2020 at 10:32 AM, Alex175 said: First thing you need to do is access where the cylinder is. On the below picture you will see the side panel #13 circled in red, that needs to come off. I also highlighted the front of the foot board because the front of the cylinder is mounted to the bar that the foot board is attached to, so later on you will need to unbolt that as well to slide the cylinder off. Next step further below... The cylinder naturally has two connection points, the highlighted yellow section is where the previously mentioned rod is slid through, so you that will be the final step to taking it off. Before that you will need to remove the pin from the other end #4. I found that the cotter pins (#3) on mine were a PITA. I had to grind mine off in order to get the pin out, and then had to drill out the holes after. Hopefully yours isn't quite as stubborn. In the blue circle you will see a snap ring, this is what is removed after the cylinder is off in order to disassemble the cylinder itself to rebuild. I would also agree with @ebinmaine, while you have it apart now is the best time to replace the hoses as well if they are in need. I got it off, it was a lot easier than i was expecting...score! now that i look, i dont think i need hoses.. i think i just need new o-rings for the hoses because they look beat up. im guessing that will stop the slow drip. we shall see.. if they are still bad then i will replace in the spring. Edited December 20, 2020 by Charbs152 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,817 #15 Posted December 20, 2020 4 hours ago, Charbs152 said: I got it off, it was a lot easier than i was expecting...score! now that i look, i dont think i need hoses.. i think i just need new o-rings for the hoses because they look beat up. im guessing that will stop the slow drip. we shall see.. if they are still bad then i will replace in the spring. Did you notice that my kits include the o-rings for the hoses? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #16 Posted December 20, 2020 3 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Did you notice that my kits include the o-rings for the hoses? I thought thats what they were for, yes. one of the reasons i snagged you kit, even though i already had a kit on hand from some place else... How does your improved wiper differ from a normal one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,817 #17 Posted December 20, 2020 Just now, Charbs152 said: I thought thats what they were for, yes. one of the reasons i snagged you kit, even though i already had a kit on hand from some place else... How does your improved wiper differ from a normal one? The manufacturer claims the material is better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #18 Posted December 20, 2020 1 minute ago, lynnmor said: The manufacturer claims the material is better. longer lasting? is the wiper a common piece to fail and leak? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,817 #19 Posted December 20, 2020 1 hour ago, Charbs152 said: longer lasting? is the wiper a common piece to fail and leak? I don't think that there is a big problem with the wipers if the rod is not rusted or damaged. So many WH tractors are abused so the cylinder rods may be bad enough that a successful rebuild may not be possible. I inquired about which material would be best for our application and that is what I used. There is a variety of materials with different temperature ratings and different hardness and the highest or lowest numbers are not necessarily the best, it depends on how it will be used. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #20 Posted December 20, 2020 35 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I don't think that there is a big problem with the wipers if the rod is not rusted or damaged. So many WH tractors are abused so the cylinder rods may be bad enough that a successful rebuild may not be possible. I inquired about which material would be best for our application and that is what I used. There is a variety of materials with different temperature ratings and different hardness and the highest or lowest numbers are not necessarily the best, it depends on how it will be used. thanks for explaining. I always like to learn something new. My rod looks to be in great shape, very smooth and shiny so i'm hopeful the rebuild will fix it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnD 145 #21 Posted December 22, 2020 Just curious... what's the diameter on the piston for a C-175 lift? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #22 Posted February 18, 2022 On 12/21/2020 at 7:59 PM, JohnD said: Just curious... what's the diameter on the piston for a C-175 lift? no clue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites