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ebinmaine

Strong clamping possibilities with front attachomatic brackets?

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ebinmaine

I've bought a Kwik way FEL loader frame from @JCM Jim.

 

For the time being I'm going to be using it as basically a secondary frame on my big wheel tractor build.

 

I want to use the front 3/4"  rod  of the loader frame to attach somewhere on the front of the tractor which is most likely to be the holes where the front attach a matic would have actually been originally.

 

What I would like to do is use some sort of very firm strong clamp instead of the levers.

 

What could do that for me?

 

 

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Pullstart

First off, AWESOME!  

 

Why not bolt the levers in place?  Would that do what you’re trying to accomplish?  Not knowing the quick way too much, how many other mounting points are there?  I would like to beef up the way the ARK loader mounts to Stormy, even if I pass it on once I get the XI loader going.

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ebinmaine
33 minutes ago, pullstart said:

First off, AWESOME!  

 

Why not bolt the levers in place?  Would that do what you’re trying to accomplish?  Not knowing the quick way too much, how many other mounting points are there?.

Below is a link to a picture that shows the drawing for a Kwik way loader frame. 

 

At the back you can see that it's clamped onto the axle just like a rear attach a matic bracket.

 

At the front you can see the 3/4 rod that I'm talking about. That attaches into the midpoint attach-o-matic bracket.

If I bolt the levers in place it's not going to give me quite enough rigidity because there's still a little bit of freedom between the levers and the bracket. 

I don't necessarily HAVE to use the front attach a matic brackets, they're just handy.

 

 

 

 

 

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Pullstart

I see.  So they only go from mid mount to the rear axle currently?  I like @cschannuth’s method of bolting it on 6 points of the frame, that would surely add rigidity to Colossus!

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Lee1977

Take a piece of 1/4" plate drill a 3/4" hole and saw a u shaped slot in it. large enough to bolt it in place with a couple of 3/8" bolts. You may need to remove the spring latch. 

The plates you make could also be welded to the  3/4" rod  and still be removable. Don't know how the frame is built so you may have to put the plate on the inside of the hitch.

Edited by Lee1977
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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, pullstart said:

I see.  So they only go from mid mount to the rear axle currently?  I like @cschannuth’s method of bolting it on 6 points of the frame, that would surely add rigidity to Colossus!

Hopefully he'll chime in and maybe toss a picture in there to see how he connected....

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Lee1977 said:

Take a piece of 1/4" plate drill a 3/4" hole and saw a u shaped slot in it. large enough to bolt it in place with a couple of 3/8" bolts. You may need to remove the spring latch. 

The plates you make could also be welded to the  3/4" rod  and still be removable. Don't know how the frame is built so you may have to put the plate on the inside of the hitch.

That was one of the ideas I'd had.

I'm not at all opposed to doing something like that but I'm hoping to find an easier way because I've been known to lack precision although starting with a drilled hole would be much better.

 

I bought a drill bit specifically for that reason. 

 

I really don't want to weld onto the rod that is part of the frame for the loader because I don't want to have to cut or grind that off if I decide to use it for something different in the future or even sell it. 

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Lee1977
15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Hopefully he'll chime in and maybe toss a picture in there to see how he connected....

 

 

 

That was one of the ideas I'd had.

I'm not at all opposed to doing something like that but I'm hoping to find an easier way because I've been known to lack precision although starting with a drilled hole would be much better.

 

I bought a drill bit specifically for that reason. 

 

I really don't want to weld onto the rod that is part of the frame for the loader because I don't want to have to cut or grind that off if I decide to use it for something different in the future or even sell it. 

 

16 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Hopefully he'll chime in and maybe toss a picture in there to see how he connected....

 

 

 

That was one of the ideas I'd had.

I'm not at all opposed to doing something like that but I'm hoping to find an easier way because I've been known to lack precision although starting with a drilled hole would be much better.

 

I bought a drill bit specifically for that reason. 

 

I really don't want to weld onto the rod that is part of the frame for the loader because I don't want to have to cut or grind that off if I decide to use it for something different in the future or even sell it. 

If you sale it that is their problem to remove it. All loaders should be bolted solid anyway. I have had a deck to drop off that hitch twice in thirty minuets. The wheel Horse latch is not good way to attach a loader.

I have my hitch pined to keep it closed but that is not a good way to attach something that is a permit part of the tractor. Get a cutting disk for a 4 1/2" grinder they are a little slow cutting  but they are easy to control

once you try it.

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

Get a cutting disk for a 4 1/2" grinder they are a little slow cutting  but they are easy to control

once you try it.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm fairly sure I already have some but I'll have to take a look at the shop. 

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Lee1977
44 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm fairly sure I already have some but I'll have to take a look at the shop. 

I just remembered you have to modify that frame anyway as you added 6 inches to the wheel base. Get with it we want to see some progress!

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

I just remembered you have to modify that frame anyway as you added 6 inches to the wheel base. !

It won't matter because the back pieces of the loader frame are a bolt-on to the front pieces. It's a 7" spacer that goes in between the transmission and frame. I'm going to get it all kind of set in there and then use a couple pieces of 2" square stock to make up the difference. 

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ecsi635j

How about taking  some  6x6" 1/4" pre-cut plate stock and  take a  good size two piece spilt shaft collar weld the top half to the plate  the bottom half would be your clamp. then use the existing three bot holes in place of the attach-matic bracket or make your two piece collar

Edited by ecsi635j
wrong spelling
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ecsi635j

I'm sure there are many more ways to go a bout this

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, ecsi635j said:

I'm sure there are many more ways to go a bout this

Agreed.  Part of what I like so much about messing with these tractors is learning all this neat new stuff!

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cschannuth
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Hopefully he'll chime in and maybe toss a picture in there to see how he connected....

 

 

 

That was one of the ideas I'd had.

I'm not at all opposed to doing something like that but I'm hoping to find an easier way because I've been known to lack precision although starting with a drilled hole would be much better.

 

I bought a drill bit specifically for that reason. 

 

I really don't want to weld onto the rod that is part of the frame for the loader because I don't want to have to cut or grind that off if I decide to use it for something different in the future or even sell it. 


I actually removed the mid mount hitch and used those holes for the front attachment point and at the rear axle I attached it and then I used existing holes underneath the dash tower for a set of attachment points in the middle of my frame.

EF9646E0-63B2-4059-8491-3EC6C344F3AD.thumb.jpeg.674c6f3b2af5ba43544907e85d268573.jpeg354B133B-706F-46F2-BC23-31B8C01F315B.jpeg.4605dccf6df847d5a4a8dd16ba67fd52.jpegE0B111AA-F37B-47A2-9E3A-24D91BE3BA37.thumb.jpeg.cf718352a877f1e22eff20f309c2c197.jpeg

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