bo dawg 516 #1 Posted November 3, 2020 Curious if anyone has broke down a factory harness to get the lengths of each wire as to simplify install? Or do you just work and install each wire on tractor as you go? I've always just sit at the tractor and install one end and fit length to where ever Im going, then crimp the fitting on other end and go to next wire. This would be so much easier to build at the bench top then go install on tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,190 #2 Posted November 3, 2020 BO, dawg, I typically go by each wire , like you do , obviously if I had an exact plug in harness it would be better. recently had a couple of small wire connectors , with multiple corroded areas at dash gauge area. first I had to find out what type of plug in it was , OREGON CHAIN SAW , was the name. looked it up on line , nothing in my area . made do with a fresh wire patch , till the exact plug in came. another thing I do is to detail and improve its environment, insuring no tight wires or chafing , using " wire wrap " and wire clamps along with dielectric grease at every connection. all 3 of my horses , now have 6 ga wire grounding from , engine block / frame to battery grounding rail , I have a picture of that I will send , solved a number of electrical issues , pete 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,831 #3 Posted November 3, 2020 All the tractors we have here are workers ,not showcase rigs so the color doesn't matter to me. A couple years ago I bought a 50-ft roll of 14 gauge full copper fine strand 7 conductor trailer wire. I cut off a section that is the length of the longest reach such as on a c series out to the coil at the front of the engine. I remove the protective case from the first 4 or 6 inches at the switch end to facilitate bending the wires onto the prongs, OR joining same said wires with sealed butt connectors onto a short piece of harness with the five position plastic terminal end on the back of the switch. Butt connectors will not be seen from the outside because they are in a short length of wire loom. I leave about a foot of the case on all of the wires and that's the part that gets put through the fuel tank shelf. At this point choose all the colors you're going to use of the five and remove the other two. I like to use 12 gauge wire to go from switch to battery and switch to solenoid. Necessary? Well, by standard, no. But I like the extra insurance. You have room to run the bigger wires through the casing because of the other two extras that you pulled out. From there I run the wires throughout. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,190 #4 Posted November 3, 2020 BO DAWG , pictures of grounding cable from , engine bloc to grounding rail , also battery tender plug in mount ,pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,831 #5 Posted November 4, 2020 @bo dawg @peter lenalena raises a VERY good point. I do run extra grounds. At minimum I put the battery ground to the ENGINE no matter where it used to be. Starter mount bolt is a good place on the machines I've done. I put grounds from engine to chassis. Battery to voltage regulator mount. Battery to negative terminal of the voltmeter. (I don't use ammeters). If you have any questions or want a few feet of the wire I have lemme know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites