Charger "Electro" 12 "Solid State" Stator/Magneto/Coil behind the flywheel

[MDD 0]

I have an above mentioned Charger "Electro" 12 Model 1-7235 With a Kohler K301s Spec #47147B.  I think the Tractor Serial Number Plate is missing as I cannot find a Serial number of the Tractor (under the dash or elsewhere).  It has an Electric PTO Clutch that I run the 42" cutter from.

My Question is around the Kohler Engine that I think has good compression and runs pretty well " at times".  The Charging system has not charged the battery well enough to get through more than maybe 1-1.5 hours of cutting with the electric PTO before it will not engauge.  I never really thought much of it lately because I had replaced the Regulator/Rectifier behind the lower dash a few years ago and while I'm not certain I have not gone through that again (as well as I am pretty certain I'd have trouble finding one at a reasonable cost anymore).

I suspect the stator/magneto behind the flywheel as now I am starting to lose power and the engine intermittently cuts out just before the PTO clutch starts to act up likely from low system energy.  The Spark plug cable is fairly well used and while not breaking up, is cracking and not in the best of shape (It's likely the original).  As I recall, It was permanently attached to whatever was behind the flywheel and worked when I last had that off, so I did not replace it then (Likely a big mistake).

 

I have seen that finding a stator/magneto/Behind the Flywheel Coil is an impossibility for anything new or even new/old stock and I would likely look into a replacement engine before I spent the cash on that or a used one that might be questionable.  Other than electrical gremlins though, (and the fact that getting the flywheel off may present a challenge unto itself because the last time we had it off, the tip of the crank that holds the screen screw chipped off) the engine runs well when it does run.  (We J.B.welded the tip of the crank on and it has never presented an issue in around 10+ years, but as I said, I'm not especially interested in tempting fate by taking the flywheel off again.)

 

I have seen two threads on these forums where a similar Solid State Stator was replaced with something more conventional (a side mounted Coil and?).  I was hoping to find information on what is involved in making this conversion to my K301s and more specifically exactly what parts are needed and can it be done without removing the old stator/magneto from behind the flywheel.  The engine has conventional points and condenser and as I said, whole setup runs strong when the battery is fully charged, and while the issue may be in the regulator/rectifier. I tend to think it is the old old solid state stator.  I love the tractor and I'd hate to have to get rid of it or sell it for parts, but replacement engines of any sort do not appear to be especially cheap as well.  

 

 I am new to the forums, and tried to tie this inquiry to the threads that folks mentioned the conversion, but I am not entirely certain I had made myself clear as to my intent.  I just thought I may get through to those that have done the conversion easier that way.  My apologies for not starting a new thread as later advised.  Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

 

MDD

[ebinmaine 63,156]

You've most certainly found the right help here. 

Parts availability is FAR better than most folks realize so don't worry about that. 

 

Perhaps some of these people can help you along. 

@Stepney @953 nut @pfrederi Paul I know you have a lot of great info on these tractors... 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,499]

Magneto ignitions are self-powered so the charging system and battery will have no bearing on the magneto performance.

The single wire from the ignition system to the ignition switch is simply grounded to shut the ignition off.

Do not allow any battery voltage into the ignition wire. That will burn up the coil.

 

I would try to get the charging system working properly first. Clean and check all the connections to make sure they are tight. Make sure the body of the regulator is well grounded and add a ground wire to one of the mounting screws back to a known good ground if necessary.

Make sure the voltage across the battery posts is the same as the voltage across the negative battery post and the DC+ terminal of the voltage regulator.

Still not working disconnect the AC leads from the stator and see what the AC voltage is with the engine running. This is well explained in the service manual.

Your charging system has a maximum output of 10 amps and those regulators can be expensive. If needed use a 15 amp regulator which is not so expensive.

 

To change to battery ignition you need an ignition coil, condenser, a new battery style ignition switch. and spark plug wire.

You also need an operating charging system because the new coil requires battery power added to the power required by the electric pto clutch.

Here is a service manual for the charging system

Keep use posted on what you find.

 

Garry

[953 nut 51,721]

The link below will take you to a bunch of information you should find helpful. Over the past five decades some of the wiring connections may have been subject to vibration and corrosion. Cleaning and tightening ALL electrical connections including grounds may solve the problems. Don't run out and spend a bunch of money on parts you don't need until you have done some basic maintenance. 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-7235&quick=1