Need advice on floor finish

[RandyLittrell 3,903]

I have finally admitted to myself what my wife has known for a long time, I just can't physically do the things I used to do!! I have a couple of guys doing some work on the house and we are going to refinish the entryway floor. Has anyone used waterbase low or no odor poly? My wife has a sensitive smeller and I want to keep the smell down. 

 

 

Thanks!

 

Randy

[ebinmaine 72,670]

Boy is your timing interesting!

 

Trina is literally in the middle of sanding the great room floor as we speak.

 

 

She uses water base poly on everything she does because of the fact that she has an extremely strong sense of smell.

We have a LOT of wood finished things in this house. Doors, doorways, floors, stairway, at least two tables, who knows what else....

 

 

The things to be aware of are that it likely won't last as long as a comparable oil based poly but it isn't a big deal to resurface once in a while.

And also you need to put more coats down. I just consulted my Floor Refinishing Department and she said an absolute minimum of three coats, really prefers five.

 

Our wooden basement stairway is in constant use and we do have a dog. It needs to be redone now after about two years or so. It's not by a long shot worn right off.

 

Some point fairly soon she's going to clean it up, scuff it smooth, put two or three coats on..

 

 

 

[formariz 12,045]

Water based poly will be fine. As Eric said you should give it three coats with light scuffing between coats. Here is what to watch out for. Many people stain their floors with a oil based stain and then finish the floor with a water based finish. Nothing wrong with that, however most never allow enough drying time for the stain. What happens is that floor eventually develops "pimples" which are not only tactile, but also visible specially if it is a glossy finish. What is happening is that the stain carrier is trying to evaporate and when it finds the water based film it dissolves it creating the "pimples". This happens specially in porous woods like red oak since the stain goes deeply into the pores. Sometimes this happens quite a bit after floor was finished such as when one turns on the house air conditioning or heating. The different atmospheric conditions will accelerate the evaporating of the carrier. Any oil stain that I use must dry for two weeks before if I am to apply any finish with a different carrier than it.

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

5 minutes ago, formariz said:

Water based poly will be fine. As Eric said you should give it three coats with light scuffing between coats. Here is what to watch out for. Many people stain their floors with a oil based stain and then finish the floor with a water based finish. Nothing wrong with that, however most never allow enough drying time for the stain. What happens is that floor eventually develops "pimples" which are not only tactile, but also visible specially if it is a glossy finish. What is happening is that the stain carrier is trying to evaporate and when it finds the water based film it dissolves it creating the "pimples". This happens specially in porous woods like red oak since the stain goes deeply into the pores. Sometimes this happens quite a bit after floor was finished such as when one turns on the house air conditioning or heating. The different atmospheric conditions will accelerate the evaporating of the carrier. Any oil stain that I use must dry for two weeks before if I am to apply any finish with a different carrier than it.

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

Have you ever tried vera thane?

not sure if that's the correct spelling of my experience with it is extremely durable. I would put it on my kitchen table.

[RandyLittrell 3,903]

18 minutes ago, formariz said:

Water based poly will be fine. As Eric said you should give it three coats with light scuffing between coats. Here is what to watch out for. Many people stain their floors with a oil based stain and then finish the floor with a water based finish. Nothing wrong with that, however most never allow enough drying time for the stain. What happens is that floor eventually develops "pimples" which are not only tactile, but also visible specially if it is a glossy finish. What is happening is that the stain carrier is trying to evaporate and when it finds the water based film it dissolves it creating the "pimples". This happens specially in porous woods like red oak since the stain goes deeply into the pores. Sometimes this happens quite a bit after floor was finished such as when one turns on the house air conditioning or heating. The different atmospheric conditions will accelerate the evaporating of the carrier. Any oil stain that I use must dry for two weeks before if I am to apply any finish with a different carrier than it.

 

 

I used to paint cars for a living so understand exactly what your saying! I live in a hundred year old house and I'm pretty sure it's the original finish on it, so its gonna soak it up. 

 

Being this is the entrance to the house, any tips on what to do while it's drying other than not walk on it? 

 

 

Thanks

Randy

[RandyLittrell 3,903]

45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Boy is your timing interesting!

 

Trina is literally in the middle of sanding the great room floor as we speak.

 

 

She uses water base poly on everything she does because of the fact that she has an extremely strong sense of smell.

We have a LOT of wood finished things in this house. Doors, doorways, floors, stairway, at least two tables, who knows what else....

 

 

The things to be aware of are that it likely won't last as long as a comparable oil based poly but it isn't a big deal to resurface once in a while.

And also you need to put more coats down. I just consulted my Floor Refinishing Department and she said an absolute minimum of three coats, really prefers five.

 

Our wooden basement stairway is in constant use and we do have a dog. It needs to be redone now after about two years or so. It's not by a long shot worn right off.

 

Some point fairly soon she's going to clean it up, scuff it smooth, put two or three coats on..

 

 

 

Thanks Eric! I know your better half does a great job, so will take her advice as good stuff!!

 

 

Randy

[ebinmaine 72,670]

8 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

 

 

I used to paint cars for a living so understand exactly what your saying! I live in a hundred year old house and I'm pretty sure it's the original finish on it, so its gonna soak it up. 

 

Being this is the entrance to the house, any tips on what to do while it's drying other than not walk on it? 

 

 

Thanks

Randy

Don't walk on it

 

 

 

Sorry. I just had to.....

[RandyLittrell 3,903]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Don't walk on it

 

 

 

Sorry. I just had to.....

We have a mail slot, so the mail even gets thrown through the front door!!

I'll figure it out!

 

Randy

[bds1984 1,499]

I've been using Minwax's Polycrylic in my high school wood shop for quite a few years.  It dries insanely fast which is what is needed as you'll have to apply several coats for a high traffic area.  When sanding between coats, I'd use a 320 grit or higher sand paper and never steel wool.  I do not recall there being strong odors from it either.  My advice is keep the area free of dust as you can and clean thoroughly between coats.

[ebinmaine 72,670]

Seems drying time isn't much of an issue. 

Trina put 2 coats down yesterday and was happy with the results. 

We put the furniture back last night. 

 

 

 

Edited October 11, 2020 by ebinmaine
Correct the phone which thinks it can spell

[Racinbob 11,928]

In our previous house I relocated the stairs to the lower level. I used maple treads with no stain. After talking to several professionals Minwax Ultimate Floor Finish was clearly the recommended choice. I was skeptical because I've always leaned towards oil base but was assured this would hold up much better with zero yellowing over time. It was very heavily used by adults, grandkids and dogs and showed absolutely no scratches or wear at the time we sold the place. It made me a believer.

 

 

 

[rmaynard 16,297]

My experience is that the "consumer" based products like Minwax, Rustoleum, Valspar, and others are okay...but they are not nearly as good as commercial products. I finished my steps with a product from Van Technologies called Green Light Coatings. It is a waterborne urethane topcoat.

 

Steps are areas of extreme wear. Walking in from the outside, unless you always remove your shoes, outside grit and dirt come in on the bottoms of your shoes and is very abrasive. More force is put on steps than on a floor. My steps have not shown any wear after more than five years, even on the front edges.

 

Having said that, as always I recommend using appropriate breathing protection if spraying. Rolling or spreading with a pad produces less misting. Adequate ventilation is always advised.

 

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

That would help me out on the steps 

but not so much on the application!! 
my steps get a lot of abuse from me going up and down from shop to the kitchen.

[rmaynard 16,297]

1 minute ago, The Tuul Crib said:

my steps get a lot of abuse from me going up and down from shop to the kitchen.

I found that putting a small refrigerator in the shop helps with that problem. 

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

well I'm one step ahead of you there I have a small fridge downstairs that has been running perfectly for the past 20 years. That's our extra little freezer and my beer space. Still have to go upstairs for food.!

[ebinmaine 72,670]

10 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

I found that putting a small refrigerator in the shop helps with that problem. 

I found that putting the shop in the kitchen helps with that problem. 

[bds1984 1,499]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

My experience is that the "consumer" based products like Minwax, Rustoleum, Valspar, and others are okay...but they are not nearly as good as commercial products. I finished my steps with a product from Van Technologies called Green Light Coatings. It is a waterborne urethane topcoat.

 

 

 

I'll give you that.  I know more seasoned wood workers are not particularly fond of a lot of the consumer grades/brands, but for the average user, they'll do the job IF one follows the instructions.  

 

 

[RandyLittrell 3,903]

Thanks so much for all the help!! I will let you know how it turns out!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[tom2p 2,394]

22 hours ago, The Tuul Crib said:

Have you ever tried vera thane?

not sure if that's the correct spelling of my experience with it is extremely durable. I would put it on my kitchen table.

 

I helped my dad install and finish wood floors when I was a kid - and also refinished the wood floors in our house 

 

I used Varathane - recommended by a number of people in the business 

 

refinished strip floor in the living room, dining room, hall - parquet in the bedrooms 

 

( also refinished oak on the walls )

 

three coats on the strip floor on the living room, dining room, and hall - five coats on the parquet floor on the hall and bedrooms 

 

turned out very well - but I don't think I would tackle this job again 

 

it's especially a hassle when applying multiple coats ; after screening (which can be amusing if you are not familiar with operating a floor buffer) - you gotta (again) vacuum thoroughly and tack before applying the next coat ... and can be a challenge to determine the coverage when applying the subsequent layers 

 

and of course gotta know what you are doing with a drum sander - or you can destroy the floor 

 

( if they still use this stuff )

 

 

Edited October 11, 2020 by tom2p

[ebinmaine 72,670]

7 minutes ago, martiscor said:

Once my husband decided to make repairs for my arrival. The renovation consisted of changing the floor coverings in the rooms

Oh wow.  

How did that go over ?