WHNJ701 4,165 #1 Posted September 7, 2020 So it's time to get this 551 running again. The background, the po redid it as a father son project back in the late 90s and it hasn't ran in say 20 years. When I bought he said it ran great they drained gas etc.. I believe him too. So I it's in my shop now I have the time to figure it out I hope! No spark. I have new points and condenser on order. The coil has been replaced visually looks ok, the plug wire is dated 1983 on it. I found only a little info online for this engine. The tractor is in awesome shape I detailed it last year. I am going some pics of the engine hopefully we can get it going. @formariz I saw some old posts about the diodes, should I replace them, how do I know if they are still good? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,671 #2 Posted September 7, 2020 I saved some videos in my YouTube to time an HH60. I'll post or pm them if you like. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,045 #3 Posted September 7, 2020 @jabelmanI am not home now I’ll send you all the info later. I also have diodes if you need it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,482 #4 Posted September 8, 2020 Diodes allow current flow in one direction only. Hook ohmmeter leads to it. Then reverse the leads. If it reads one way only they are good. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=h55d&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,209 #5 Posted September 8, 2020 Also take a closer Look to the clips where the diodes are inserted, they tend to greenspan. Gently clean with a small brass brush and protect with little dielectric grease. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #7 Posted September 8, 2020 Thanks this all helps,. The key switch has 3 wires, 1 to the positive battery, 1 to the selonoid, and 1 to the to top of rectifier. Is this correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #8 Posted September 8, 2020 I guess another question if something is screwed up, can the charging and battery be eliminated and just run it with the pull start? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,045 #9 Posted September 8, 2020 CAREFULL. If everything would be original to tractor absolutely no power to the switch. You will fry the magneto which is not easy to find. Solenoid is also unique to that tractor. It is activated by ground. Take a good look at diagrams I posted. Switch on that tractor is only used to activate ground to starter and to short ground to stop engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,045 #10 Posted September 8, 2020 3 hours ago, jabelman said: I guess another question if something is screwed up, can the charging and battery be eliminated and just run it with the pull start? Correct Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #11 Posted September 8, 2020 12 minutes ago, formariz said: Correct I think to be safe its going to be pull start for now and hold off on the electronics, going by the diagram the key switch should be 2 pole, so mine has 3 and doesn't follow the diagram. I don't want to fry out sometime, this engine so far appears in great condition after pulling the head. If I don't use a battery do I need a discharge point for rectifier? Anything in particular just run it as a basic pull start? I appreciate your help, this engine I am not familiar with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,045 #12 Posted September 8, 2020 Just remove the diodes from rectifier if you are going to use it with the battery disconnected. Then it is just like running any normal magneto engine. To stop it either choke it or use a normal toggle switch connected to the center terminal of rectifiers to ground out magneto. refer to diagrams posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #13 Posted September 8, 2020 Made good progress today, changed the 20 year old oil, new plug, decarboned the head, pulled the diodes, removed the selonoid and battery cables, looks a lot cleaner with out the wiring. I already ordered the points and condenser, while I was cleaning up the inside of the flywheel the armature, filed the points, then put it all back together, gave a yank and checked the spark lots of it! Gave a hit of choke cleaner and she rumbled for a few seconds!! She wants to go! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 12,045 #14 Posted September 8, 2020 Good news that it has spark. Many times magneto is fried because owners put power to ignition switch. When you replace points take extra care with timing. They are finicky when it comes to that. I almost would attempt to start it now prior to that just to make sure it runs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #15 Posted September 8, 2020 Yeah that's the plan now if it runs fine the points are staying. Hooking the control cables looks like it's going to be a treat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites