312 H Electric Fuel Pump

[KC9KAS 4,741]

I have been having issues for quite some time with my 312 "starving" for fuel.

I determined it KOHLER fuel pump has a broken piece that held one of the "poppet" valve in place. It was a plastic (original) fuel pump and couldn't be repaired.

I was not going to pay the local L & G shop $175 for a new KOHLER fuel pump so I bought a "cheap" one off the web...well, you get what you pay for and that one lasted about 2 hours (2 weeks mowing) and it started running bad starved for fuel again.

 

So now here is the breakdown:

Electric fuel pump                                                             $65

2  1/4" barb X 1/8" MPT                                                    $10

12 VDC Relay                                                                   $6

Relay wiring pigtail                                                            $18

Assorted wire/fuses/terminal ends/shrink tubing (est)      $5

Mowing without tractor quitting                                    PRICELESS!

[pfrederi 17,157]

Glad it worked out ...US made Facet Posi flow are about $35, at their current draw relays are not necessary...

[roadapples 6,981]

24 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Glad it worked out ...US made Facet Posi flow are about $35, at their current draw relays are not necessary...

@pfrederido you have the part number for the one you use. I used the cube style 40163 because it is 1.5-2.5 psi. But it was about $67 with shipping....

 

 

 

 

[pfrederi 17,157]

I use 60345 4 psi no issues  comes with fittings.  others may want lower pressure 60301

 

 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

On 7/2/2020 at 7:06 PM, pfrederi said:

Glad it worked out ...US made Facet Posi flow are about $35, at their current draw relays are not necessary...

I bought a Facet Posi Flow # 60106 and it was $65 at an auto parts shop.

You sure you didn't use  #60245?

[pfrederi 17,157]

 

Yes fat finger typing  60245.    Your auto parts store has a heck of  mark up...Also the 60106 is kind of high pressure for our purposes.

[squonk 38,976]

I use the Napa 6101051 which is the same pump as the  60245. $66.00. Not defending an auto parts store but:

 

Not all parts stores are the same. Even a big chain like Napa. Example: Genuine Parts Company (Napa) buys this pump from whomever. Now Napa wants stores all over. Which means distribution centers, trucks, people,(mark up = profit)  ect. Now the want a store near you. They hope to find someone who wants to OWN a store. They don't want to build one (cost) They find a guy or a guy finds them. They tell this guy if you want a store you have to make it this big or do this or do that. (initial Cost) Guy builds it and has to BUY parts to fill it. Napa does not just show up with a truck and say here you go.  Napa has now made it's money. Now the store owner has trucks, people and overhead. He has to mark this pump up again. it's called 3 tier pricing.

 

Then the store owner decides to sell and retire. He has a crapload of accounts receivable. In a store I worked at this averaged about $100,000 a month. A new store owner needs to be found to assume this debt. Much back and forth goes on and depending how badly the warehouse (Napa) wants that store open, they may assume the debt and and it into the new store owners monthly parts bill monthly. 

 

Yes parts are cheaper online almost always but then we ask where did all the stores go. It sucks paying an extra $30 for this pump. But it's a couple miles away when you need another one and when you break down in the middle of a snowstorm well.....     Edit: I do not like the new owners of my store especially the way they do some things but its there when I need it. 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

On 7/12/2020 at 2:16 PM, pfrederi said:

 

Yes fat finger typing  60245.    Your auto parts store has a heck of  mark up...Also the 60106 is kind of high pressure for our purposes.

The fellow at the parts store said he had sold MANY of these pumps for garden tractors so I went with it...So far, so good!

 

[Tim Fenn 0]

I just bought a Carbole 2.5-4 psi 0.9-1 A pump for my C125 but it still throws petrol straight through the carb (new) & out through the exhaust? I thought I'd be ok as below 4 psi? I've just ordered a fuel pressure regulator hoping to solve the problem. The new mechanical pump was hopeless as stopped working after 15 mins so thought best to go electric? Any suggestions/advice would be very welcome? 

[lynnmor 6,802]

29 minutes ago, Tim Fenn said:

I just bought a Carbole 2.5-4 psi 0.9-1 A pump for my C125 but it still throws petrol straight through the carb (new) & out through the exhaust? I thought I'd be ok as below 4 psi? I've just ordered a fuel pressure regulator hoping to solve the problem. The new mechanical pump was hopeless as stopped working after 15 mins so thought best to go electric? Any suggestions/advice would be very welcome? 

 

 

I doubt the fuel pressure is the problem, many have had problems with the cheap imported carburetors.  Your failed fuel pump may also be an import.  I would take that carburetor apart and see if you have dirt in the inlet valve or a bad float or float adjustment.

[Tim Fenn 0]

45 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

 

I doubt the fuel pressure is the problem, many have had problems with the cheap imported carburetors.  Your failed fuel pump may also be an import.  I would take that carburetor apart and see if you have dirt in the inlet valve or a bad float or float adjustment.

It's definitely a fuel pump problem as when I remove the fuel pipe to carb, there's no fuel coming from the pump. It seems if it sticks when engine reaches operation temp? I've hear this is a common problem? Also if the mechanical fuel pump fails, it spills petrol into the engine sump? Hence why I thought it best to go electric?

 

[123GO 78]

  A great place to buy our carbs today is right here. http://shop.kustomlawnandgarden.com/main.sc

These are imported carbs but not like you find everywhere else. These carbs are not metric threaded inside/out they are factory SAE threaded so Kohler/Carter kits fit them. Only sold here and his service is excellent. Either being HP, Custom built or Stock carb take your pick he has it or will build it to your needs pretty much. 

  I believe some blame it on vapor lock Tim, thats heat from the engine raising the fuel/lines temp and it gets air bubbles inside the lines but rubber lines don't get hot like metal fuel lines can do so don't confuse it with that issue? Its why most all air cooled engines use rubber lines instead of metal, they can get pretty hot so' I'm not saying it "can't" happen with rubber but its not common as many believe. I never tested the fuel line temps to see if its even close to those temps or heard of anyone else who actually has to honestly know?  Some old horses may have metal lines as I do see vapor lock thrown around on here, my oldest horse is a 1976 and its rubber. 

   It may be the pump but maybe not? If you still have the pump Tim remove the gas cap and try the pump again while lines off when hot. There is a pinhole in top of our gas caps to allow air in the tank and they get clogged creating no fuel issues too, generally several minutes after refuelling because all the air in a fuel tank must be sucked out first then your fuel no longer flows. One may believe its after heating up?  Best of luck, let us know what you learn...Also' welcome to the Forum Tim Fenn! Always glad to see a newbie join.

 

 Fwiw-

   A leaky needle valve inside a carb can put fuel in the oil and also spit fuel out of a carb. It's needle valve connected to floats control the fuel flow to the carb bowl and if it sticks open/closed it can do this. It can actually run/start even but if the needle stays open especially while sitting this allows fuel in the engine that mixes with oil. I've seen them fill many engines with gas parked over winter, mainly after ethanol came on scene as it swells the rubber tip on old needle valves bad so they fail to seat tight to stop fuel from entering & it drains a fuel tank into the engine. If lucky the engine won't start because it can destroy an engine quick. A bad/blocked needle can starve/flood engines both within a minutes time while running or sitting by a needle failing to open/close off fuel to the carb. Your float will rise to stop fuel and fall to fill a bowl normally, the needle valve just won't operate right to control fuel as needed. Piece of dirt blocking needle/seat, poor machining in carb/needle/seat, clip holds needle in place bent assembled wrong or bad rubber tip on a needle it don't take much to create havoc. Hope this helps somebody? Thanks