CARB KIT?

[TDF5G 2,073]

I'm looking for the correct carb kit for my dad's 1996 314-8.  The parts manual shows KH10696 which is discontinued.  Surely there is another part no. that would work.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  

Todd

Edited June 24, 2020 by TDF5G

[ebinmaine 72,603]

Last several carb kits I've ordered I have gotten them from Lincoln at A to Z in Pennsylvania.

 

Sometimes you find that a carb kit does not have quite enough gaskets in it. He's saved my bacon a couple times so that's what I recommend folks to do.

 

 

[TDF5G 2,073]

I may have jumped the gun asking my question.  I think it crosses over to this number.  Can anyone verify if this will work?  https://www.rcpw.com/search/?quest=25-757-13

 

This carb has never been removed, so I'm not familiar with the design or what the parts look like yet.  I'm hoping to get the kit before I work on it, for a quick repair.  I've only ever rebuilt K series carbs.  

 

Edited June 24, 2020 by TDF5G

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,472]

Photo of the parts using your number

https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-25-757-13/

 

Garry

[TDF5G 2,073]

19 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Photo of the parts using your number

https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-25-757-13/

 

Garry

Thanks.  I did see that. I think Parts Tree may have been where I found the cross-reference for that number.  Why does this kit come with 2 needle valves?

 

The carb kits by this part number on ebay have one needle with a spring attached to it.  The needle is what I'm really going need I think.  I don't understand this.

 

 

Edited June 24, 2020 by TDF5G

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,472]

This manual may help. Click on the picture and read the note before downloading.

The spring on the needle was introduced to pull the needle off it's seat if it happened to stick there while sitting idle. When the float drops it is supposed to take the needle with it.

Extra needle likely increases the number of models it will fit.

 

Garry

[TDF5G 2,073]

41 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

This manual may help. Click on the picture and read the note before downloading.

The spring on the needle was introduced to pull the needle off it's seat if it happened to stick there while sitting idle. When the float drops it is supposed to take the needle with it.

Extra needle likely increases the number of models it will fit.

 

Garry

Thank you so much Garry.  You've been very helpful.  The needle sticking after the tractor sits idle for several days is exactly what I'm suspecting is happening, causing a hard start problem so that makes perfect sense.   I'm going to print the carb reference and keep it on hand.

[roadapples 6,983]

I don't have one that new, but all the kits I've bought have been genuine Kohler off eBay for about 12 bucks.

 

 

[TDF5G 2,073]

1 hour ago, roadapples said:

I don't have one that new, but all the kits I've bought have been genuine Kohler off eBay for about 12 bucks.

 

 

Yes they are.  Unfortunately, the genuine M kits are much more.  I found an aftermarket unbranded one (probably made in China) on Ebay shipped for about $17. 

[TDF5G 2,073]

I got a kit and did the overhaul.  I didn't see anything obvious.  I've not been over to Dad's place yet to try and start it yet.  Thank you for the replies and the help. 🙂

[TDF5G 2,073]

This tractor is still hard to start after setting for a week or 2.  My dad bought it new in 1996 and it's always done this.  The dealer replaced the fuel pump when it was new but didn't solve the problem.  I've checked the fuel pump twice and it squirts pretty good.  I've replacde all the fuel lines and installed worm type clamps to help seal up the system from sucking air.  I've cleaned the tank and replaced the shut-off valve grommet/seal.  I just overhauled the carburetor, and it's still hard to start after 1-2 weeks of setting.

 

I'm trying to keep it all original as it still is in perfect shape, but now that Dad is 88 and unable to mow, my brother and I are tending to the mowing with it and it's a PITA getting it started every 2 weeks.  I don't know what else to do, I'm trying to avoid installing an electric pump if I can help it.

Edited July 29, 2020 by TDF5G

[ebinmaine 72,603]

1 hour ago, TDF5G said:

This tractor is still hard to start after setting for a week or 2.  My dad bought it new in 1996 and it's always done this.  The dealer replaced the fuel pump when it was new but didn't solve the problem.  I've checked the fuel pump twice and it squirts pretty good.  I've replace all the fuel lines and installed worm type clamps to help seal up the system from sucking air.  I've cleaned the tank and replaced the shut-off valve grommet/seal.  I just overhauled the carburetor, and it's still hard to start after 1-2 weeks of setting.

 

I'm trying to keep it all original as it still is in perfect shape, but now that Dad is 88 and unable to mow, my brother and I are tending to the mowing with it and it's a PITA getting it started every 2 weeks.  I don't know what else to do, I'm trying to avoid installing an electric pump if I can help it.

I'm not familiar with the newer horses. Is there a place to put a squeeze bulb?

 

[Blackhood Bill 722]

I don’t know but maybe @richmondred01 will chime in on this one. 

[TDF5G 2,073]

19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm not familiar with the newer horses. Is there a place to put a squeeze bulb?

 

Yes.  This was suggested to me on a facebook group.  I'm thinking I might try that.  Thanks 

[AMC RULES 37,196]

Just might be the ticket.

[TDF5G 2,073]

7 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Just might be the ticket.

I was just looking at those on ebay

 

[AMC RULES 37,196]

You'll find 'em nicely priced on that jungle site too.

[TDF5G 2,073]

7 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

You'll find 'em nicely priced on that jungle site too.

I just ordered the lowest priced one that doesn't ship from China.

Edited July 29, 2020 by TDF5G

[tom2p 2,394]

6 hours ago, TDF5G said:

This tractor is still hard to start after setting for a week or 2.  My dad bought it new in 1996 and it's always done this.  The dealer replaced the fuel pump when it was new but didn't solve the problem.  I've checked the fuel pump twice and it squirts pretty good.  I've replacde all the fuel lines and installed worm type clamps to help seal up the system from sucking air.  I've cleaned the tank and replaced the shut-off valve grommet/seal.  I just overhauled the carburetor, and it's still hard to start after 1-2 weeks of setting.

 

I'm trying to keep it all original as it still is in perfect shape, but now that Dad is 88 and unable to mow, my brother and I are tending to the mowing with it and it's a PITA getting it started every 2 weeks.  I don't know what else to do, I'm trying to avoid installing an electric pump if I can help it.

can you define 'hard to start' ?

 

engine cold after sitting for 2 weeks - does it crank for 10 seconds ... 20 seconds ... 30 seconds ... ? ... before it runs 

 

are you using full choke - with no throttle (idle position) ?

 

Edited July 29, 2020 by tom2p

[TDF5G 2,073]

14 hours ago, tom2p said:

can you define 'hard to start' ?

 

engine cold after sitting for 2 weeks - does it crank for 10 seconds ... 20 seconds ... 30 seconds ... ? ... before it runs 

 

are you using full choke - with no throttle (idle position) ?

 

It cranks and cranks and cranks without firing.  It acts to me like it's starving for fuel.  It won't fire with throttle in either position with choke closed.  I'm not always there to try and start it each time, as my brother uses to help mow also, so he complains to me about it.  The last time I was there to use it, it cranked and cranked for ever, (as it always does)  and I thought I was beginning to smell gas, so I thought maybe the carburetor had a problem, like the float was bad or the needle was stuck, which I know now is not the problem after overhauling it..   

 

We have to remove the front engine cover, and air filter cover, squirt some gas in the carb, or spray starting fluid in it to get it running every time.  Then put all that stuff back on.   It's very frustrating. 

 

Edited July 30, 2020 by TDF5G

[oldredrider 2,553]

Gonna put my neck on the chopping block for this, but here goes:

The fuel pumps on the later model 312's and 314's are crap. Always have been.

Look through all the threads on here about hard starting, especially after setting for a while. Most posts refer to these models. 

Newer plastic fuel pumps are crap too. Doesn't solve the problem and leak too.

Best (cheapest) fix is the primer bulb as mentioned above. However, that only fixes the hard starting and NOT the fuel starvation mentioned by so many other posters. 

My recommendation (from a lot of experience) is to install a quality electric fuel pump. The cheap $10-15 pumps don't last more than an hour or two and leave you with the same problem you started with.

Get a quality pump (I recommend Facet) and never have that problem again. 

Granted, not original equipment, but tractors were built to run and work, not cussed at because they won't. 

Investing in a good electric pump may cost a little now, but saves a lot of headaches later.

 

[TDF5G 2,073]

54 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

Gonna put my neck on the chopping block for this, but here goes:

The fuel pumps on the later model 312's and 314's are crap. Always have been.

Look through all the threads on here about hard starting, especially after setting for a while. Most posts refer to these models. 

Newer plastic fuel pumps are crap too. Doesn't solve the problem and leak too.

Best (cheapest) fix is the primer bulb as mentioned above. However, that only fixes the hard starting and NOT the fuel starvation mentioned by so many other posters. 

My recommendation (from a lot of experience) is to install a quality electric fuel pump. The cheap $10-15 pumps don't last more than an hour or two and leave you with the same problem you started with.

Get a quality pump (I recommend Facet) and never have that problem again. 

Granted, not original equipment, but tractors were built to run and work, not cussed at because they won't. 

Investing in a good electric pump may cost a little now, but saves a lot of headaches later.

 

Thank for the reply.  I've read a few of the threads about electric pumps. What do you do with the original pump when installing the electric? 

Do you wire it to run the electric only, or wire it so that it operates only when starting?

[oldredrider 2,553]

I would remove the pump and put a block off plate on the engine. Wire the electric pump into the ignition circuit. Turn the key to run for a few seconds  and then crank the motor over. Easy Peasy. 

Only reason I have for removing the pump and installing a block off plate is I had a mechanical pump arm break off and take out the whole bottom end of my engine. Not going there again. Rare, but it can happen.

[953 nut 59,912]

5 hours ago, oldredrider said:

My recommendation (from a lot of experience) is to install a quality electric fuel pump.

                Be sure to mount the pump low on the frame, they are good at pushing fuel but not so good at sucking it up hill.

[TDF5G 2,073]

I wanted to follow up and let you all know that it seems we've found a solution to the problem.  I received the primer pump a couple of weeks ago and installed it.  It started right up for me.  And my brother reported that it fired right up for him on Sunday.   I think we are all much happier now. 

 

Thanks again for all the replies and advice.  The fuel pump must not have enough suction for this set up.  

Edited August 31, 2020 by TDF5G