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Mickwhitt

What did you do today?

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, Wheel Horse 3D said:

So ill need that insert to power anything off the BYD.

Yes, exactly. At that point you will need to determine the manufacturer and model of your dual-spool valve to hunt down the part.

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Gregor

I got half of my garage cleaned up today, swept and mopped twice. :chores-mop: Moving a little slow these days.  I found that elusive flanged rod cap nut from the MV 16. It must have slipped by me somehow. Now I can sleep nights.:sleeping-blue:

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Gregor

Some say I am wrong in using thread locker on rod bolts and nuts. They say I don't get  true torque value when doing that. Well, I'm gonna keep on doing that.

 

I still believe as you suggested @Jeff-C175, The rod was broke before I ever got the motor. I can't believe it broke at starter cranking speed.

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Wheel Horse 3D
2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Yes, exactly. At that point you will need to determine the manufacturer and model of your dual-spool valve to hunt down the part.

Thats gonna be fun! I dont see any markings, only info is very general stuff from ARK..I havent checked the bottom yet..maybe there will be something there.

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ranger
15 hours ago, Mickwhitt said:

That is called back lapping, can only be done to hone properly ground and aligned blades. You'd not sharpen a cylinder that had issues using this method. 

Its very complicated to get a reel cutter working beautifully. 

Yes Mick, I agree. It would be like trying to reseat a burnt valve with fine lapping paste!. I think they used to do this before any issues occurred, Just to keep on top of things, a bit like you see tree surgeons, etc giving their chainsaw chains a “Quick Lick” with a file every few cuts to maintain an edge.These were mowers for areas such as bowling greens, etc, maintained by the council. Nowadays it seems that any small equipment that requires more than a new spark plug to repair ends up being scrapped and replaced due to high hourly rates charged between different departments. (Most of my previous customers were local authority workshops). Many machines, similar to yours ended up being scrapped because sharpening was more economically viable by “outsourcing” to private companies. The workshops weren’t legally allowed to privately sell any surplus machinery, (you could submit an offer in writing to “Council H/Q”)  but they were allowed to dispose of items by “Scrapping”! I have a complete “Wolf” valve refacing machine, (freebee) along with the valve seat recutting tools which were destined for the skip when a workshop closed and went private contract.

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AMC RULES

20210730_104459.jpg.0d79442449db8d172b2ab0c97e709495.jpgA little rough grading today.

20210730_104328.jpg.66b4ae458b8e3e22ba02f1d13c73d58e.jpg

Certainly no cow path anymore.20210730_112400.jpg.420ab4c52897bee1294827b0b3b2067b.jpg

 

20210730_113011.jpg.ffa43f082d2cef13331f9219e546374d.jpg

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

no cow path

Can cows still use it or are you making a cow exclusive path?

 

 

 

:hide:

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Handy Don
20 hours ago, Wheel Horse 3D said:

Thats gonna be fun! I dont see any markings, only info is very general stuff from ARK..I havent checked the bottom yet..maybe there will be something there.

Here's hoping you find it! Maybe another member has specifics on that valve and can post them?

Two other items:

1. Not having the flow schematic for your valve I can't be positive, but it's likely that the pressure relief works ONLY for the two spools in your valve. That means if you go "beyond" you'll need to make sure you have pressure relief for the additional valve as well (or add relief at the pump to protect the entire system). (It is possible that the relief covers both IN and BYD as such valves exist.)

2. Also, if you go "beyond" to an additional valve, it will need its "OUT" port plumbed back to the filter/reservoir/tank

 

Common hydraulic valve labeling

Supply: P or IN or Inlet (from pump)

Return: T or OUT or Outlet (to tank/filter/reservoir)

Beyond: BYD or N (I can only surmise this is for "Next" :)) (carries supply from one valve body to the supply of another valve body)

Actuator cylinders: A (for extending), B (for retracting)

Edited by Handy Don
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Gregor

Cleaned up the other half of the garage today, then promptly proceeded to mess it all up again. Oh well, Saturday is a good cleaning day. Leave It T Beaver is not on. Told my wife I was going to air condition the garage. Didn't bat an eye. :thumbs:

BTW  What do you call these terminal ends, and where can I find them? McMaster Carr informs me, they do not carry them.

20210730_145127.jpg.34d64fecc8141c01a41d50ab6db29abd.jpg20210730_145155.jpg.9d4382c81d4c35e79205a670b989a152.jpg

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, Gregor said:

What do you call these terminal ends

@953 nut. ?

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Gregor
12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Well that's kind of a funny name :P!

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Gregor

I googled "Lock In 1/4" Spade Terminal.2136322197_Screenshot2021-07-30at18-16-12PackardType56Terminals-Female-GoogleSearch.png.b4cc70c11882529359ae0ec1556dc8bf.png

 

Whodda thunk?

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953 nut
2 hours ago, Gregor said:

What do you call these terminal ends, and where can I find them?

Had to take a second look to see what you were dealing with. They are DELPHI PACKARD GM 56 SERIES TERMINALS and Napa or any good auto parts store should have then in stock. Take the old one with you so you know you have the correct wire size.

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Wheel Horse 3D
3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That means if you go "beyond" you'll need to make sure you have pressure relief for the additional valve as well 

Thats a good point. Whatever spool setup I get for the hoe will most likely have its own relief, but better be sure!

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Wheel Horse 3D

Cleaning all done...tomorow engine checks and wax!

20210730_192145.jpg

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Mickwhitt

So, on with the reel grinder.

The hydraulics are powered by a gear type pump which is in good shape, but the gland type shaft seal is all dried out and useless.

Made of graphite rope I will need to make up a new one to pack the seal cavity with prior to tightening up the gland.

Anyone had any experience with this type of seal? 

The alternative is to machine out the gland to take a modern seal but its high pressure. So I'm off to a pump specialist on Monday to see what my options are.

New belts arrived this morning and the grinder shaft now runs as sweet as a nut.  Can try the other belt as it runs the hydraulic pump.

 

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Gregor

In my garage, I have four, 8', 2 bulb, high output, fluorescent light fixtures. When I came out to the garage this morning, one of them had died. I want to convert all the fixtures to non ballast, LED T-8 bulbs. I made a mad dash to the big box store. I converted the fixture to LED. Simple to do, and much better light. I bought enough supplies for all the fixtures, and planned to switch them out as they go bad, but this looks so good, I may do them all now, and be done with it. I highly recommend it. :thumbs:

 

 

Had another small wiring job to do. Off to the local Farm & Home store for some Romex. 25', 14-2 with ground, $36.00 :angry-screaming:

Edited by Gregor
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squonk
16 hours ago, 953 nut said:

 Napa or any good auto parts store should have then in stock. 

Napa # 725445  Grote 84-2013

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Stormin
7 hours ago, Mickwhitt said:

Made of graphite rope I will need to make up a new one to pack the seal cavity with prior to tightening up the gland.

Anyone had any experience with this type of seal? 

 

  Used that type a lot, Mick. But water pumps, not hydraulic pumps. Just make sure you tighten the retaining bolts evenly.

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formariz

@Mickwhitt   When its completed please post video of it sharpening a reel. Most interested to see how it works.

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Handy Don
3 hours ago, Gregor said:

Romex. 25', 14-2 with ground, $36.00

Copper is at or near record high prices.

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Gregor

Just a follow up on the new lights in the garage. I switched them all out.  I got curious about amp draw. I checked the draw on a fixture with ballast, 2, 96" high output, T-12 bulbs. 1.6 amps.

I swapped out the bulbs and ballast for 2, non-ballast, 96" LED bulbs .6 Amps. I expected more of a difference, but I like really these a lot. :thumbs:

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, squonk said:

Grote 84-2013

Ordered. Thanks for that. 

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Stormin

 At a bit of a loss what to do today. Then I had a thought. I'll cut back the first half of the bridleway. It had got somewhat overgrown. So out with the C-81 and finger bar. Nice steady pass down. Low 1st.

 

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P1030744.JPG.cb65f7156647af89c3e38857b3916973.JPG

 

Then back up.

 

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P1030747.JPG.a259340fc8bbaeed47ca647fe57cab15.JPG

 

  I'll maybe tackle the second section tomorrow. Though that is really bad. I could do with a front mounted flail mower.

 

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Horse Newbie
48 minutes ago, Stormin said:

bridleway

What's a bridleway ?

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