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midpack

Battery ignition wiring to magneto

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midpack

Anybody use a battery ignition main wiring harness for a Magnum swap?

I put an M12 in a C-175 previously, but I'm pretty sure I used the mag main harness and key switch.

I found an M18 that i could put in an extra C series roller I have kicking around here and I'm wondering if I have to scrounge up another harness too, or whether I could alter the existing one

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ebinmaine

Don't take this as the final word but I'm thinking you could just change to an M type switch...

And...

 

Seems to me you could alter the existing harness by disconnecting the wires at the switch and reposition as needed using the old I wire as the M wire.... ???

 

 

Edited by ebinmaine

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gwest_ca

Wheel Horse did that. The battery ignition switch ignition wire fed a kill relay to open the contacts so the B&S magneto ignition would work. Shut key off and relay contacts were grounded to shut the engine off.

 

Garry

 

Here is where I got it.

The relay is a very common one available everywhere.

Tractor 1978-79 C-161 Twin Wiring SM (2) SS.jpg

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peter lena

midpack, if you change the switch, also change out the switch harness, for about $ 8 , its a no brainer, also helps you verify your system function . pete 

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953 nut

Best bet is to lay a copy of the 417 (battery ignition) wiring next to a copy of the wiring for a 418-C (Magnum Engine) to see what changed.

The ignition part would be accomplished by replacing the ignition switch. The safety switches are another story. On your "C" the  seat switch closes to allow power to the points when you are in it and opens when you get up.

The relay Garry is talking about would be an easy fix if you are comfortable with electrical work. You can pick up a five pin relay and socket at any auto parts store and wire it in. Terminal 85 or 86 would be connected to the wire that went to the ignition coil and the other to ground. When you turn on the ignition switch this will magnetize the coil and activate the switch in the relay. Terminal  87a  will go to the magneto on the engine (the kill wire) and terminal 30 will be grounded. When the key is off the 87a/30 will be grounding the magneto preventing it from running, when the key is on the flow of electricity through 85/86 will open it up and allow the mageto to work. The safety switches will continue to protect you as before.

Hope this helps.

mini-automotive-relay-wiring-840x.jpg

Edited by 953 nut
fat finger
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953 nut

battery ignition converted to Magneto-wiring.jpg

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midpack

You guys are the BEST!! 

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redone

I am changing engines on a 105 tractor from a k series kohler 12 hp to a kt17. The pig tails from stator wires to ? There is one blue wire with a eyelet. Where do I take these wires to hook up?

 

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pfrederi

KT17 voltage regulator is on the top of the shroud. so there are only two wires on the engine harness plug.  One is regulated 12 Volt for the R terminal White I think  .   The other  feed the dual ignition coil goes to the I terminal or the PTO switch if you tractor has one.

I would check both with a ohmmeter before you did anything

This post started asking about a magneto.  I am confused....

Edited by pfrederi
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953 nut
8 hours ago, redone said:

I am changing engines on a 105 tractor from a k series kohler 12 hp to a kt17. The pig tails from stator wires to ? There is one blue wire with a eyelet. Where do I take these wires to hook up?

 

This post was started by @midpack with a specific question about a specific Wheel Horse..    Please start a new post asking YOUR question about YOUR Wheel Horse.   Most of us are old and easily confused anyway.     :confusion-confused:

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redone

Hi Guys.

Checking in. I 've been writing on here about my kt17 installation. Going from a 241 Kohlerr to this kt17. Ok. Now after changing craddles that mount to the c105 frame I 've found the drive belt was to short. So I am using a new belt from a c141 hydro. But I am still not sure it's the right fit. I 've put the left peddle forward about 2" then clamp the rod next to frame to hold it in place. Now it seems I 've got good belt drive. But now do I just adjust that peddle rod so the foot peddle comes back to its normal resting spot?

Yes it's a lot of maneuvering just to change an engine. 

The kt17 has been rebuilt. Next waiting for a new wiring harness to arrive.

Thanks

Bill 

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pfrederi

Twin Hydros use different belts than singles.  108502 would be the belt for a twin cylinder hydro.

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