troutbum70 858 #1 Posted February 21, 2020 The lever that goes from the throttle shaft to govenour arm has much ware, is this repairable or is there some where to acquire the part new along with rebuild kit? The throttle shaft also has a good bit of movement in the carb body. I know Eric and a couple others have mentioned the new bushing for the throttle shaft. I have not found any where online as of yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #2 Posted February 21, 2020 If that area is loose and moving and it should not be you can probably take a very small amount of carefully placed J-B weld and repair it. Be sure to clean off the area first. I don't know exactly where to get those shaft bushings because Jim brought his to the house. @JCM Jim @pfrederi Paul Either of those two might be able to tell you how to buy them from McMaster-Carr. I know they have to be a particular size. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,681 #3 Posted February 21, 2020 I showed the bushings in a reply to one of your other posts. (Item#17) Oliver 2-44 also provided another source....(item#18) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #4 Posted February 21, 2020 Okay I did give JB weld a thought, I also thought of trying to drop some solder in there to take up the play. Not sure if either would last long with the engine vibration. And I do have the info on the washers. The throttle shaft must available somewhere, if I purchased a new carb it would have one. Would like to save the old original carb if possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #5 Posted February 21, 2020 Soldering is a possibility but it must be done with a fair amount of guesswork and care because the steel of the shaft will heat differently from the solder itself. I'm not sure about the vibration resistance characteristics of JB weld versus the solder. Jim and I did solder the carb shaft in the same place on one of the ones we did but I have not installed it on the tractor yet. Several of the members of this site have had good luck with the Chinese replacement carbs but I am NOT one of them and I do NOT RECOMMEND using them. Norman is a great guy. I've spoken to him on the phone and by text a few times. I love the fact that he is local to me. That said, I have never bought anything from his company because quite frankly I am too frugal. Cheap. It is your tractor and you obviously are welcome to fix it in whatever way makes you feel the best. I would very HIGHLY recommend that you fix the original Kohler carburetor. It's not at all a difficult thing to do given a certain skill level. I had no idea how to repair or rebuild a Kohler carburetor 3 years ago but I have done several successfully since. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #6 Posted February 21, 2020 Did you use any particular solder or the same type used to solder? Or the same type used to solder copper pipe? And did you use mild heat from a torch? I think the info on the washers that pfredi sent me require the hole in the carb body to be inlarged for the washers to be pressed in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #7 Posted February 21, 2020 3 minutes ago, troutbum63 said: I think the info on the washers that pfredi sent me require the hole in the carb body to be inlarged for the washers to be pressed in That's what I thought before I did the job but it turned out that the hole was exactly the right size for the washers that were supplied. you may very well find exactly the same thing. They popped right in with a very light press-fit. 4 minutes ago, troutbum63 said: particular solder or the same type used to solder? Or the same type used to solder copper pipe I don't have it right in front of me but it was the stuff that Jim would normally use to do plumbing on copper pipe. Yes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #8 Posted February 21, 2020 Okay thought maybe you used silver solder possibly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #9 Posted February 21, 2020 Just now, troutbum63 said: Okay thought maybe you used silver solder possibly. I can check it and let you know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #10 Posted February 21, 2020 Okay at your convienence no hurry tnx. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,681 #11 Posted February 21, 2020 They press right in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #12 Posted February 21, 2020 Okay no drilling required? And tnx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,404 #13 Posted February 21, 2020 1 hour ago, troutbum63 said: Okay thought maybe you used silver solder possibly. I would suggest using silver solder. It is stronger & will hold up better over time. If you have an Ace Hardware near by you can purchase two 7/16" od x 1/4" id x 1/16" thick bushings. These will work to fix your sloppy throttle shaft. There should be no need to change the butterfly shaft. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,836 #14 Posted February 21, 2020 (edited) Throttle shafts. I deciphered what Kohler part # I needed and ordered it from my local OPE dealer (which has since closed after 83 years) http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1carb.htm Edited February 21, 2020 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #15 Posted February 22, 2020 Thank you Squonk every thing in one place I like that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #16 Posted February 22, 2020 20 minutes ago, troutbum63 said: Thank you Squonk every thing in one place I like that. It's highly unlikely you'll need a shaft. It's almost always the bore that's worn. That's why the washers are important. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #17 Posted February 22, 2020 I think you are correct EB as long as I can secure the shaft to the top lever. And I agree with Achto I believe the silver solder would be more durable. But I may order the shaft just in case I am not successful at soldering it. I am going to need the gaskets and rebuild material so may as well get it as well, probably also get the low speed idle jet and the main fuel jet. Probably not needed but needed, but after 40 years of maintaining a semi truck and trailer going the extra distance pays big dividends down the road. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #18 Posted February 22, 2020 Agreed. Watch a few videos or whatever... You'll figure it out for sure. There's a better than fair chance the main jet won't even begin to move. Brass(?) Part in an aluminum casting. Not a problem. They rarely wear out or get so dirty as to be unusable. If you don't like the way the solder goes at first you can always melt it out and try again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #19 Posted February 22, 2020 So your saying if it does not come loose leave it alone. Can you warm it up a bit with low heat? Or just replace the needle valve and call it good. And that's correct melt it off a start over. An e string off a guitar usually work good in small places like that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 858 #20 Posted February 22, 2020 Also I believe it was mentioned the screws that hold the butterfly need the backs ground off before attempting to take out the screws. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,702 #21 Posted February 22, 2020 7 hours ago, troutbum63 said: So your saying if it does not come loose leave it alone It takes exactly the correct sized flat screwdriver to move one, usually. From what I've seen online and folks I've known over the years it's a part that almost never NEEDS to be replaced. I'm not sure if heat would be ok with the tiny little orifices in a carb. I just replace the needle, clean the seat. 7 hours ago, troutbum63 said: Also I believe it was mentioned the screws that hold the butterfly need the backs ground off before attempting to take out the screws. I use a Dremel tool with a chain saw diamond file. EXTREME CARE and a steady hand is required. It doesn't take long to get the needed material removed. I got replacement screws from my local KL Jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
